Stator death is a common issue with the stock shunt regulator, and even simply due to bad batteries. As shere are many threads about troubleshooting electrical issues to determine if the stator has failed, if the battery is bad, and also replacing the regulator to help prevent stator failure, that's not the focus here.

I'm curious about stator temperatures and cooling.

I have a few questions:

1. At what temperature do stock and/or aftermarket stators tend to fail?
1a. What kind of insulation do the stator windings use?

2. What is the best way to get an idea of stator temperature considering it cannot be measured directly?
Stator Cover?
Coolant Temp?
Oil Temp?
2a. What are some ways (and challenges) to setup these monitoring systems?

3. What is *your* (and ultimately a normal) estimated stator temperature (and/or proxy temperature that indicates approximate stator temperature) on average?
How has this been for your stator? (has it burned out at this range before?)
3a. At what temperature has your stator burned out?

4. What are ways to ensure good stator cooling? (other than using a series type regulator, and limiting electrical load - see other threads for details)

Not sure if this helps, and this is a static measurement, but we used to roughly determine winding temperature from the change in resistance of the coil. Need to know the cold winding resistance, cold ambient temperature and temp coefficient of copper. Get winding up to temperature, them measure resistance and solve for temperature. Please note a that a four wire resistance measurement technique (or dedicated low ohm meter) will be needed to measure the low ohm coil resistance. Not very practical for real time measurements!

Temperature Coefficient of Resistance

It seems that a GOOD way is to measure the temp at the stator cover w/ one of those remote-sensing thermometers, that you point, then squeeze a trigger.

ALWAYS keep your oil-level FULL, as it's the oil that 'cools' the stator.

It seems that a GOOD way is to measure the temp at the stator cover w/ one of those remote-sensing thermometers, that you point, then squeeze a trigger.

ALWAYS keep your oil-level FULL, as it's the oil that 'cools' the stator.

IF I remember correctly, someone posted a BIG difference in temp, just by changing to a series regulator (invader???).

Finally someone besides myself that understands, the four wire or Kelvin leads, would be extremely difficult unless you made a male socket to match the 3 phase plug. I am going to copy some of my info. Doing that I am going to start a thread identical to this one, in members only.
I have far more detail here;https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...ml#post1634263