Chain / Time to replace chain? - Page 5 - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #81 of 85 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 08:28 PM
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IImproper Chain Type

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Originally Posted by Fly-Sig View Post
Isn't the design function of the rubber damper to contact the chain? Machining it off defeats whatever it does, good or bad.
I have seen members post a chain that deformed the rubber dampening, turns out it was the wrong chain. I posted those photos to show what my 2015 15T sprocket looks like. If you read what is posted on Fortnine , it does exactly what it was designed to do, reduce wear on the chain and sprocket, reduction in noise may be a added benefit, however I wear ear plugs.
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post #82 of 85 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fly-Sig View Post
Isn't the design function of the rubber damper to contact the chain? Machining it off defeats whatever it does, good or bad.
There are a lot more bikes without rubber dampened front sprockets than those with them and they work just fine.

One goal of the rubber damper is to reduce sound and vibration.

I machined my damper down in case it was causing extra heat generation in the chain.

The test ride felt and sounded just as it did before. I would check the temp if I had a Laser Non-Contact Infrared Thermometer. Just feeling it by hand is not too accurate.

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post #83 of 85 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by PCX View Post
Thanks for the discussion here, after reading through i decided to change my sprockets. Where can I find Molybdenum Disulfide oil that I am supposed to put on the front socket nut? I found this product at my local autozone store, is this the same as what manual asks for?

https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-20...gateway&sr=8-4

Since I have polluted the discussion with something unrelated, I have one more question: The manual specifies torque of 122ft-lbs, I suppose this is after application of MoS2 (as opposed to dry torque)?
This is the moly I used. Mix it with new motor oil in the ratio per the manual. The stuff you linked to is some kind of mixture with other stuff than moly. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fwiw I don't think it is really critical to get the ratio exact. The moly is there to keep some lube on the threads over time.

For the torque I think you want to use the lower number. 92 ft lbs? It was in one of these threads, perhaps earlier in this one. Since the threads are lubed you need to reduce the torque from the dry number. Again I don't think we are dealing with ultra precision here. In the old days all we had were those bending torque wrenches with a pointer, not the click style. The washer ensures the nut won't come loose. There is some potential for problems if you over torque, so I'd aim for the lower number rather than the 122.
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post #84 of 85 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 08:30 AM
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I use the Honda chrome moly paste to put a thin film on the sprocket teeth on both sprockets and on the inside of the drive sprocket where it slides over the output shaft.

I believe that stuff is no longer available under the Honda brand.

I also used that stuff as a lube for the teeth on the final drive to wheel interface on my c-10 Connie. Very little wear showing at 230k miles. The stuff works and is excellent for high pressure metal gear contact areas.
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And most of Canada too, eh?
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post #85 of 85 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 04:26 PM
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EK520 SRX2 chain

So far I have about 23,269 kms (14,458 miles) on my EK520 SRX2 chain, lubed ONLY w/ WD40, and it has ONLY been adjusted FOUR FLATS (2/3 of a turn) in that time. I expect that it might get another adjustment BEFORE I head S to AZ next month.

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Last edited by fasteddiecopeman; 09-04-2019 at 04:28 PM.
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