Fan Cooling / ECU/ Temperature Sensor Faulty/Speed Sensor - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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Fan Cooling / ECU/ Temperature Sensor Faulty/Speed Sensor

This example relates to a MK-1, but applies to all Versys 650 . A couple things important to understand. First Kawasaki suggested early in the 2007 that if extended idling in hot weather to switch off the motor
Be aware the fan draws roughly 70 watts,or 22% of maximum output, add your base load and we are talking 44% of available watts over base load,keep in mind this available watts is at or above 3500 RPM

Many look at the testing spec and don't realize the value in the table is times 1000 ( 1K), this sensor is non linear, proper testing should be on a stove top in water using the mid point as suggested in the table .
I am going to suggest using your fridge, most fridges should be around a setting of 4 to 5'C, so at that temp you should read around 600 ohms. Second test is at 40'C and you should read 1136 ohms plus or minus 95 ohms.
Last at boiling you should read 155 ohms plus or minus 7 ohms. Remember the ECU has several settings, one for the fan and one to bring the warning light on plus to shut the engine down.
For those doing the testing, if you have REL on your meter, you may need to select two different ranges, each range you should select REL is you have it while shorting out your leads, this compensates the resistance of your leads for the low ohms especially at the boiling temperature setting.
Currently I am helping a member that has had numerous electrical issues, his issues actually have stimulated my troubleshooting mind, as it is complex , but we are getting somewhere .

This is from a 2007 manual, for your specific model check the manual, as values could change.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-20-2019, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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Speed Sensor testing

the colors of the sensor clockwise starting from the bottom as you look inside the plug at the pins are: black, pink, yellow

This is my 2015 650 Versys, please note I have been involved with a member trying to find why his fan cuts out while moving the bike below 3 KM/HR, it happens to be a MK-1 with ABS , that model year used a positive supply from the meter cluster and a common negative, voltage at the sensor was around 11 VDC **On the 2015 they use a 5VDC on all the sensors, where in the MK-1 UK version they used the 5 VDC for everything but the speed sensor, I think there were problems as why switch , although the MK-2 UK version with ABS was identical for the speed sensor wiring to the MK-1

On The 2015 the supply to the speed sensor is the same 5 VDC as the vehicle down sensor , main and sub throttle sensor, water temperature sensor, basically all the sensors use the same 5 VDC on The MK-3
Hard to see the difference as it was overexposed, looking down the left is pink wire right is yellow, below is black, note the latch opening in the top,

This view shows the pins as in the testing drawing, Kawasaki figured no need for anyone to know the colours related to the wire drawing.

So a couple things to note. The polarity of 90% of digital meters out there have a common, a volts /ohms and a current socket for the probes , common is usually negative and a black terminal, volts / ohms is usually red , the other terminal may be marked with A +- or amps AC/DC and further selection on the meter to co-inside with what you are using it for. Some meter have REL which will remove the resistance of your leads when using your lowest resistance scale by shorting out your leads while pushing REL, it will then show 00.00 on the display. For those that don't have rel, some allow you to zero the display ( mainly analogue) however you can also note what the resistance is while shorting the leads, say it is 1.5 ohms, you would subtract that from your measurement of low ohms, for example say you had a resistor that stated it was 10 ohms, you measured it with your meter and read 11.7 ohms, therefore the resistor is actually 10.2 ohms, close enough.
All the tests the first colour is always with a negative lead from the meter, the second colour is the red positive lead.

Two methods were used and I need to caution, diode test and resistance, the original test method was not used because the MK-1 with ABS owner didn't have the 10,000 ohm resistor.
I have included his tests with power on and then the tests using his meter, with diode test then ohms. The last readings I have identified as my readings on the 2015 along with my thoughts. Diode test should be fairly close with all meters, it is using the highest voltage of your meter and is sort of measuring voltage drop and current then calculating the resistance. That is a 15 ohm resistor across a 10 volt supply will create a 0.66 amp current . To find resistance you divide voltage by current so 10 volts divided by 0.6666 = 15 ohms , there is much more involved as most diode you assume as a 0.7 ohm value in forward conduction, FYI this value is why electronics produces heat, you have heard of supper conductors, the lower the value the less the losses. Stopping here as this is way over most members heads.

So started out asking the member to do some tests as he arrived at some point realizing his fan turning off was related to the speed sensor, we eliminated the temperature sensor and the fan relay. Two key events, disconnecting the speed sensor or disconnecting the meter cluster resulted in no change or stopping of the fan, also pushing the bike at or above 3 KM/HR resulted in the fan coming back on, when both speed sensor and cluster were connected.

Below is his message to me, one of many This is piercing / tapping into the appropriate lead colours:

Hey, I will start this with another crazy observation I just had with the speed sensor, all my tests results are with the ignition on, cause there are no readings with the ignition off.

speed sensor unplugged and I measured at the harness:
-Black and yellow negative and Pink positive= 11 vdc
-Black and yellow negative and Light Green positive = 4.66 vdc
i plugged the speed sensor into the harness and pierced at the sensor:
-Black and yellow negative and Pink positive= 11 vdc
-Black and yellow negative and Light Green positive = 0.06 vdc
i unplugged the speed sensor and ran jumper wires from the harness to what is Black and yellow negative and Light Green positive = 4.66 vdc
i unplugged the cluster and connected the speed sensor, and pierced the speed sensor wires and measured:
-Black and yellow negative and Pink positive= 11 vdc
-Black and yellow negative and Light Green positive = 4.66 vdc

Subthrottle sensor:

- Brown black negative and Blue positive = 5.07 vdc
- Blue positive and ECU ground screw = 5.08 vdc
- Blue positive and Battery ground terminal = 5.08 vdc
- Brown black negative and Battery positive terminal = 12.4 vdc with contact on (same as battery voltage)

The main Throttle sensor has
the above readings also.

Below is using a digital meter with the power off and using either ohms or diode test.

So First your readings;

here are the results:
#1 neg on Pink & pos lead on Yellow: infinity
#2 neg on yellow and pos lead on BK: 576 on diode and 2000 ohms setting Note he was instructed to use a ohms test when he got a infinity reading using diode test.
#3 last neg on Pink and pos lead on BK: infinity on diode and 143.0 ohms on 200k setting Note he was instructed to use a ohms test when he got a infinity reading using diode test.

Next using diode test on my Fluke 189 Onewizard all tests below are my tests using a fluke 189, on ohms it was auto range.
#1 infinity
#2 0.630
#3 infinity
Next using the same polarity but using ohms
#1 infinity
#2 3.79 meg ohms
#3 4.41 meg ohms

Next is forward Diode test
A - neg on BK and red on pink 2.176
B - neg on BK and red on yellow infinity
C - neg on yellow and red on Pink 2.650

Last is the same ABC but using ohms
A-5.82 meg ohms
B- infinity
C 9.61 meg ohm

So a couple things, my speed sensor uses 5 VDC not 11 VDC, therefore your readings should be equal or greater than my readings for #3 using ohms
Also note my #2 setting using ohms was 3.79 meg, you had 2000 ohms

Some of this could be meters, however keep in mind your device uses at least double the voltage of my sensor.
Finally the #3 I had 4.41 meg and you had 143 ohms

One thing you could do is compare to your buddies if it is the same year, the speed sensor will be identical.

Tested July 27, Versys 2015 with fan running , sitting at top of hill at idle, neat little voltmeter , added some voltage values for those interested and some calculations.

So my ECU has been flashed and the fan comes on at about 195'F , it never sees 214'F anymore, To Steve at Shoodaben
So with the bypass at about 200'F I watched my little voltmeter at idle , one green led on, I started coasting down the hill, the fan ran continuous from 0 KM/HR right up through 11 KM/HR , I never touched the throttle and I reached a stop sign so had to brake. FYI the speed sensor on the 2015 is powered by a 5 VDC supply that drives all the sensors, 2014 and earlier used a 12 VDC input .

Last edited by onewizard; 07-28-2019 at 01:24 PM.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 10:29 AM
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07-09 Versys 650 Fan cutting out

Hello everyone,

I hope all of you are well, happy and riding safe.

For the past 2 weeks I have been struggling with what might be a problem on the 2007 models and 2008, 2009 maybe even 2010. The issue is that the radiato fan, once it starts, if you move with a speed between 0-2 km/h (maybe going slow between cars), the fan will stop and will only start again once you completely stop moving or go beyond 3 km/h.

Onewizard walked me through this and helped me test everything, and we finally reached the conclusion that if we unplug the speed sensor, the fan will no longer stop between 0-2 km/h.

I cannot possibly think of a reason for Kawasaki to intentionally do this, and even so, I see it as a serious flaw. Furthermore I think many of us have this problem, but it was never noticed until now.

Here's how you can see if this happens to your bike:
1.Start the bike and let it warm up until the fast idle goes off
2.Unplug your temperature sensor plug so that the fan starts, without having to wait 20 mins for the bike to get hot
3.Put your hand somewhere close to the engine where you can feel the hot air blown by the fan, and push the bike slowly forward or backwards, but don't exceed 2 km/h

You will feel the fan no longer blows air, you will even hear the pitch of fan as it stops/starts/stops
If you have a voltmeter mounted, it is easier, you will have 13 something VDC as the fan runs, when you push the bike forwards/backwards you will see how the voltmeter climbs up to 14+

I would appreciate if those of you that still own the 2007-2011 models, try this and see if you have this problem. Maybe together we can reach a conclusion or a solution.

Personally I do not take this issue lightly and it took a lot of testing to find the cause of this, even though it seems simple.

If you have any other questions regarding this, post here.

Thank you!
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 02:12 PM
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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More Research 2007 to 2015 Speed Sensor

So the 2007 to 2015 use a 21176-0065 speed sensor according to Partzilla . However from 2007 to 2014 the pink positive wire to the speed sensor comes from the cluster, it was measured by the previous poster at 11 VDC. In 2015 the speed sensor pink input was connected to the 5VDC power supply that goes to the temperature sensor, sub and main throttle sensors, vehicle down sensor and more, basically all the sensors are now powered by a 5 VDC . Through several ( over 200 PM and counting ) it has become apparent that a 2008 and another 2007 Versys has this problem along with Verspkd. What I don't know is if the original supply voltage was 5VDC from the cluster and this supply has failed to regulate and now produces a over voltage, as Kawasaki doesn't normally change wiring on a whim. What I do know now is the sensor is the same on all model years and is able to function on 5 VDC. I proposed a test hook up using a USB power supply , powered by the original pink input wire from the cluster measured at 11 VDC and connecting the positive 5 VDC USB output to the pink speed sensor. Leave the original yellow output and original ground of the speed sensor intact. Connecting the negative input to the USB and the Negative output from the USB together and to negative ground. I also suggested to insert a 1 amp fuse in the positive input to the USB power supply, as I suspect a spike from the speed sensor could cause a failure to the USB, Verspkd apparently has a USB power supply kaying aroun with a 1 amp and 2.1 amp output, I suggested using the 2.1 amp, although my guess is the sensor draws less than 50 milliamp, 0.050 amp.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-02-2019, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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Spent hours on this issue with Verspkd , and was hoping someone with a MK-1 or MK-2 would take the time to check this out, so far where he lives, two other MK-1 operate the same way in his city. The issue is if at a stop the fan is running, moving forward from 0 to 3 KM/HR the fan shuts off, above 3 KM/HR the fan turns on again. From my perspective, I am either stopped or moving above 3 KM/HR, also like a couple days ago, near Stayner , major road construction, wait time was 15 minutes, after 5 minutes I shut the bike down, no sense idling for 15 minutes.BTW I did a test on my 2015, sitting at the top of a hill, in gear and waited for the fan to come on, then coasted from a stop, the fan ran continuous right through 11 KM/HR until I came to a stop.
I have another thread on this with more detail, however the OP felt this forum would attract more comment. So far it doesn't appear so.

My other thread:
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-25-2019, 06:06 AM
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After many weeks spent brainstorming this issue and testing everything electrical with Onewizard, a solution was found.

After testing all sorts of combinations, the final result is a 4900-5000 ohm resistor on the yellow wire (signal wire) of the speed sensor.

I've cut the yellow wire near the speed sensor's base and soldered in the resistor in-between.

I have tested this value extensively for about 1000km and this seems very stable for me, fan no longer cuts out, speedometer operates normally.
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