Adding to break in oil - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-02-2013, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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Adding to break in oil

Recently brought home my new 2012 Versys and have only taken it for a few short rides. Was checking it over this evening and noticed oil level is right at the bottom line. Should I add a little or go ahead and do the first oil change. Don't know if it has a specific break in oil that would be affected by adding normal oil to it.....thanks
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-02-2013, 08:27 PM
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Mileage?

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-02-2013, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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200-ish.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-02-2013, 09:03 PM
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Just add a bit of regular mineral-based 10W-40 (0W-40, 5W-40, 15W-40) JASO MA rated motorcycle oil, such as this:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-...e-Oil/16879749

Last edited by invader; 02-02-2013 at 09:15 PM.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-02-2013, 10:17 PM
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I would change it myself. I like to change after doing break in drills for the first 50 miles, then after 200 miles of riding, and then let the dealer do the 600 mile service to keep in good with them. Then I do all services after that myself.

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-03-2013, 12:42 AM
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Oh yeah, change it now with mineral-based motorcycle oil again. Maybe add a little, then do a few acceleration runs up to redline once engine is fully warmed up, then dump the oil and filter... Mine was well due after the first day at 140 miles.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-05-2013, 03:43 PM
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No offense but, are you checking the oil level with the bike standing up, or on the sidestand? Just trying to prevent an overfill.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-05-2013, 04:24 PM
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Good point. That did cross my mind... Better to ask than to assume.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-06-2013, 06:34 AM
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Don't you just follow break in instruction from Kawi? And the oil level should not be low so you call Kawi and ask them best way to proceed?

What do I know? Very little! Sorry!





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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-12-2013, 08:00 AM
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Like Big Foot, there is no such thing as "break in oil".... In fact, as your bike rolls off the assembly line it is dyno tested at various rpm (including redline)... All manufactures do this to test engine output... So basically your bike is broken in before you even sign on the dotted line... This makes any break-in routine you choose (Motoman or by the manual) irrelevant... As mentioned earlier... if your oil is low, just add regular 10w-40 Jaso MA rated oil and just ride it normally...

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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-12-2013, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by CanadianFZ6 View Post
Like Big Foot, there is no such thing as "break in oil".... In fact, as your bike rolls off the assembly line it is dyno tested at various rpm (including redline)... All manufactures do this to test engine output... So basically your bike is broken in before you even sign on the dotted line... This makes any break-in routine you choose (Motoman or by the manual) irrelevant... As mentioned earlier... if your oil is low, just add regular 10w-40 Jaso MA rated oil and just ride it normally...
You can't break in an engine just by revving it at various rpm at the factory, they do that simply to check that engine is working properly. Parts are not made of clay, it takes time for surfaces to smooth out together A friend mechanic told me the "break-in" oil is simply mineral oil so that it doesnt lubricate too much that it would prevent the break-in (like full synthetic would), some might put extra additives to improve break-in, but basically it's mineral oil. Once you dump your first oil, pass a magnet in the pan, you'll see why it's important to follow the manufacturers break-in recommendations with an early change of oil. If the engine was broken in out of the crate you would make your first oil change at 5-6000km.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-12-2013, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Kawa007 View Post
You can't break in an engine just by revving it at various rpm at the factory, they do that simply to check that engine is working properly. Parts are not made of clay, it takes time for surfaces to smooth out together A friend mechanic told me the "break-in" oil is simply mineral oil so that it doesnt lubricate too much that it would prevent the break-in (like full synthetic would), some might put extra additives to improve break-in, but basically it's mineral oil. Once you dump your first oil, pass a magnet in the pan, you'll see why it's important to follow the manufacturers break-in recommendations with an early change of oil. If the engine was broken in out of the crate you would make your first oil change at 5-6000km.
You need to do more research, but you believe what you want... Corvettes roll off the assembly line with Mobile 1 Syn in their crank case... According to your theory that will never allow them to break in... My Brand new 2012 F-150 had Ford Motorcraft Synthetic in the crank... I guess old wive's tales never really die...

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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-12-2013, 05:46 PM
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I can't speak for Corvette engines, I don't know. One thing is for sure, manufacturing tolerances are very small compared to what they used to be, so there's no doubt less break-in is required then 20 years ago. But even with all that precision, personally I wouldn't do my first oil change at 6000km.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-14-2013, 04:29 PM
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There is a large difference between revving a stationary engine to red line and revving an engine under load. Load can be applied on an engine brake in the factory or on the road. I'm not certain that the oil type has any effect on this, but I'm no engineer and would not presume to know.
I doubt that the V is revved to redline under load in the factory but maybe somebody here has the inside scoop? Not that it matters to me, I would follow the manufacturers guidelines regardless, with the occasional burst up the rev range and an early oil change.
There is certainly a lot of myth surrounding "break in" procedure, almost as much as that surrounding oil type, but I do notice that regardless of choice, modern engines last a very long time and few of them consume oil.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-15-2013, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smiley View Post
There is a large difference between revving a stationary engine to red line and revving an engine under load. Load can be applied on an engine brake in the factory or on the road. I'm not certain that the oil type has any effect on this, but I'm no engineer and would not presume to know.
I doubt that the V is revved to redline under load in the factory but maybe somebody here has the inside scoop?
I would think that, if there was benefit in the motoman break-in method, the manufacturers would create a tester to break in the motors in the factory. It does not seem to be that big a problem to solve. Rather, I think that the manufacturers have found the revving to redline under load does not help the engine and therefore there is no point in doing such a thing. This does not lessen the amount of rhetoric that goes along with break-in protocols.

Of course we will have to see what sort of life I get out of the engine of my Versys, but so far it seems to work fine (along with just about everyone else's).

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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-16-2013, 08:12 AM
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-16-2013, 10:32 AM
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Ya gotta love these break in fights!





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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013, 09:25 AM
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Ya gotta love these break in fights!
Yup...they are on every forum and can be quite entertaining. I am a fan of the mototuneusa.com method. I have only had the opportunity to buy two brand spanking new motorcycles. The Versys, a 2001 Yamaha FZ1. I broke more bones on the FZ1 than I care to remember but I learned, eventually.

Everyone ride safe!

I'm no diplomat
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-21-2013, 10:19 AM
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