Yes. And that you may be over tightening the chain. And that you may not be lubricating the chain enough.
When you buy a replacement chain, also replace both sprockets. And don’t waste your money on a JT chain. JT makes good sprockets, but terrible chains. I’ve just replaced my second JT chain in 20k km. This time I bought an EK SRX2 chain, and new JT sprockets.
My OEM chain was binding in multiple places at 11K miles 2011 gen 2. I replaced it with JT front, Sunstar rear sprocket and JT x ring chain. Now at 19K miles the chain needs adjusting every 1K miles or so. Will take 16VGTIDaves advise and go with EK chain next time.
I had used KLR chain lube but it left a build up on the swing arm and I suspect it may have contributed to OEM chin binding. I now use Dupont Teflon chain lube 1/2 the price available at Walmart, it dries quickly leave little cast off and there is no binding in my chain so far. I lube my chain every 2-300 miles.
It does sound like it's time for a chain replacement. And like Dave said above, get a quality chain. (I prefer the Bike Master's if your local dealer has them. They've been good to me and priced affordably.)
Also change out the sprockets. I generally have two different brands on the front and back. I went OEM for the front sprocket and a dealer-suggested Sunstar for the rear.
Finally, if you're going to change it yourself, I'm the guy that's going to forewarn you that the front sprocket is a bear to get off!!! If you have an air compressor and ratchet gun you should do OK. If not a breaker bar at minimum will be needed...and some friends to help you!
When I adjust the slack, I am doing it to spec each time. I also clean and lube the chain weekly, about every 400 miles. Just seems that recently After a long ride on the weekend, 300-400 miles, it is really loose and out of spec again.
I think a new chain and sprockets are in my future. What do you think about a DID chain?
Thanks for the comments and suggestions.
The chain on my '15 V650 LT had the SHORTEST life of the THREE V650S I've bought at 23,187 kms[14,407 miles], and in fact - I got OVER 56 THOUSAND MILES on the OEM chain on my '08, and THAT included a 'fair' amount of dirt roads!
FWIW - I got 39,030 kms[24,252 miles] on the OEM chain on the '09.
I adjust my chain 1 time in 3500km , and it was in service when I have 3100km .
Also service guy told me that I ignore instruction for tightening into manual, because you need to sit down on bike and than adjust chain.
Instruction say 25-35mm but when you adjust like that (when is on rear stand )and you sit on them it can be OK, but it is not same if you have 70kg or 130kg, or maybe more if you have full top box and side box. Also my service guy ask me do i travel alone or are 2 poeople on bike before tightening them.
That service is official kawasaky for last 35 years, so I belive to them more than to manual book when the chain is in question.
Check your OWNERS MANUAL - it says Set the motorcycle up on its side stand under "Drive Chain Slack Inspection", because that way the weight of the bike is affecting the slack so that you can set it CORRECTLY.
The chain is at its TIGHTEST when the rear axle, the swing-arm pivot and the center of the counter-shaft are in a STRAIGHT line, so 'Ma Kawi' has done that for you, which is where the figures of 25 - 35mm// 1.0 - 1.4 inches come from, as you are NOT doing the inspection when it's at its TIGHTEST.
If you don't trust Ma Kawi, then you CAN set the bike up so that the three points are INLINE, which entails removing your rear shock after ensuring that it doesn't FALL when you do so, then adjusting to VIRTUALLY NO SLACK but not SUPER-TIGHT, followed by re-installing the shock, then putting the bike BACK onto the stand and measuring what your 'slack' is. You'll find that it IS at 25 - 35mm//1.0 - 1.4 inches.
What Freddie said. Adjust on the sidestand as per manual.
I replaced the stock chain on my '13 650 at ~10k miles. Shortest life I've ever gotten from a chain. Totally stretched out.
I replaced with a RK GXW chain, and Driven sprockets (the lightweight steel rear). Check out motmummy.com. He's got the best deals on chain/sprocket combos, free shipping, and excellent customer service.
I just got back from a three day 1500 km ride to Lake Placid. First night I arrived I checked my chain by rolling it forward about three inches at a time until I found the tightest spot. it was right at the edge of just being over the limit at 1.5 inches. Got out my tools and only had to turn the adjusters about 1/3 of a full turn to put the chain at 1" slack. Rode for two days and came home today. Checked the chain on the sidestand and it is still exactly at 1" slack.....perfect. Put it up on the paddock stand to clean and lube the chain and it was really tight. In some places it was difficult to turn the rear wheel. At the tightest point it was only about 3/4 inch slack and that was using lots of force to get that much. So everything is perfect according to every rule in the Manual correct?
...Checked the chain on the sidestand and it is still exactly at 1" slack.....perfect. Put it up on the paddock stand to clean and lube the chain and it was really tight....
In BOTH situations your bike's weight is ON the suspension, so there should NOT be a difference. Do the spools you have, attach to the swing-arm, or somewhere else? (I can ONLY see what you describe as happening, occurring IF the swingarm can somehow 'sag' letting the rear suspension extend.)
When my 16 is on its sidestand the suspension is completely unloaded so there is slack in the chain. This is how the owner's manual says to measure the chain slack. When I put it on my paddock stand (which supports the bike from the swingarm) the weight of the bike compresses the suspension and tightens the chain.
On the sidestand your suspension is completely LOADED - ALL the bike's weight IS on both wheels and the stand., the SAME AS ON YOUR paddock stand.
THAT is WHY the manual says to "measure the chain slack" that way. To 'prove' it - measure your slack while on the sidestand, then put it onto the paddock stand, and measure it AGAIN. It will NOT be different!
Well, all this discussion got me curious, so I checked my 2011. There is a noticeable sag when the bike is lifted off the side stand. To the point that the chain was rather tight. So I got on the bike and put most of my weight on the seat while reaching down to feel the slack in the chain - NONE! I said bad words as I recently replaced the chain and sprockets and obsessed over the chain slack and alignment.
So, I added some more slack to the chain, beyond spec and checked again. Better, but still too tight. Added even more and checked again. Better yet, but if I bounced on the seat the chain appeared to get too tight. So I grabbed a couple car batteries and put them in my top box, and tested again. You know it - still too tight!
I increased the slack until there was some when loaded down. And when I check it unloaded on the side stand there is no way to measure it. The chain easily touches the plastic chain guide before becoming tight. But as soon as I stand the bike up and it settles, it is a reasonable amount of slack (sorry don’t have a paddock stand and I couldn’t measure the slack while holding the bike up). Once I get on the bike, there is still some slack, so I’m going to ride it as is for today and see how it feels and sounds.
This may be another example of Kawasaki not revising the manual after making changes. Like their suggested suspension settings, which are completely wrong (for my bike and me) with excessive preload and damping, and as a result no sag. I’m getting very suspicious of the manual. If they can’t get basic adjustments correct, what else is wrong?
I find this to be somewhat true as well. I have to set mine at 1.5" of slack in order for it not to be really tight when fully loaded with panniers and top box. I just hold the bike up straight as you are saying. Sounds like you might be a little too loose though if the chain hits the plastic slider that easily. When you fully load the bike (or when the front and rear sprockets are aligned horizontally there should be virtually no slack in the chain as others have said. This is how mine is currently on the side stand. I am starting to wonder if I am doing it correctly now with all this chain slack talk. I used to keep it set at 1" slack, but that just seems too tight. 1.5" seems the best to me. Seems similar to my KLR where the factory chain slack is just a bit too tight.
I recently replaced chain and sprockets, and set the chain the way the manual says (side stand, 25-35mm). My dad told me it was going to be too tight, and so I mentioned that I had done it exactly how the manual says. He followed me on my first ride, and we pulled over after a few miles. He said it looked way too tight with me sitting on it, and checked it as I sat there - basically no slack. So, I loosened it off slightly, and checked again - more than 35mm when on the side stand, but ‘just enough’ slack with my weight on it.
I adjust chain how manual book say and 30-35mm is chain slack (chain have only 6500 km so this 5mm depend how hard I press chain to down and how hard i push chain up.),
I would say that chain slack are about 32mm on 95% of length of chain.
Also I put bike on paddock, and measurement are almost same +-2mm.
When I was on service (before 1 week, service guy check chain while I was sitting on bike, and he say it is perfect)
So this was my first chain adjusting at home, and I spend 30 minutes to check is rear sprocket in line with front sprocket.
First time is hardest, next time it will be much less hard because now i know what i doing.
So I have to admit that manual is OK (just like you say)
I still ride alone, without passenger ,and with maybe 5 kg of load behind me, so I don't know how tight chain will be when I put maximum load on bike.
Boring day , so I adjust chain at 12 000 km, slack was 45mm on tightest place.
So I ajdust chain. Also I notice this time big difference between left and right side in notches which you can use for alignment.
How much I see, chain is now OK, straight.
First time when i adjust chain i didn't have this little toof for checking alignment. So I use that notches.
I don't know how accurate was that.
But second time when I adjust i have that tool so I use them- than inner side of chain on right side was really really close to right sides of sprocket
But now I use again that tool, and now inner left side of chain are really really close to left side of sprocket.
I hope that you understand what I wish to say.
I don't know does that play any role. Or it is OK, because I check with that tool.
Well my little tool for chain alignment are bad, and notches on motorbike are OK.
Screw which you use to tight tool on sprocket have slack.
I replace that crap aluminum screw with new steel screw, and now slack almost don't existe between hole thread and screw.
I check again alignment and I see that is misalignment chain on my motorbike. I ajdust chain again and now it is straight, and difference between notches on left and right side are very small, mabye 2/6 turn of the screw.
I place new marks on screws, so I know how much turns I made on one side so I can make same turns on other sides.
So basicaly I ride about 10 000km on misalignment chain LOL.
Need to buy one more tool so I have spare if i destroy this one, and maybe some kind of cheap laser for extra checking.
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