I've got a gen 2 versys. Although this probably applies to all Versii.
I was leaking oil out of the water pump cover / housing so I ordered all the replacement seals. The mechanical water seal was a PITA. I actually removed it without quite the right tool, but I did end up getting it out using a couple of carefully selected sockets, a long bolt, and box end wrench.
I installed the new mechanical seal using the same carefully selected socket (as opposed to the Kawasaki recommended "Special Tool", Oil Seal Driver, part number 57001-1660. Much to my dismay, I damaged part of the seal, but didn't realize it until I buttoned her back up and noticed coolant leak. Bummer. Thankfully it's not an expensive part. I ordered a second new mechanical seal, along with Motion Pro's bearing driver set, hoping that would be right tool for the job. It also wasn't, but didn't realize it until I got the new seal #2 most of the way installed and noticed part of it cracked. MAJOR BUMMER!!!
I called around to some shops, no one nearby had one in stock. One shop got me considering buying a new water pump housing because if the original was damaged in any way it would lead to problems. I think the original is fine, but for $30, why risk it.
I just ordered the water pump housing, new seals/gaskets, etc., AND the Kawasaki Special Tool (less than $40) to drive the part in without damaging it.
One could probably find a socket or some other driver that would work, but you need to make sure that it only contacts the outer metal ring, and not the black plastic/rubber seal in the center.
A time consuming and frustrating mistake
, thankfully not super expensive, and I got some new tools out of it!
The attached thumbnail is the damaged second new mechanical seal. You can see the cracks in the black plastic part.
Many times the old bearing or old seal can be used to home the new bearing. Since my first career was in a electric motor shop, bearing installation was a must , many times we made our own drivers from rigid conduit, one key is using the housing after the seal is removed to check what comes close to the same OD of the seal. Step #2 ,just because you have a driver made by the manufacturer means nothing. First make sure everything is clean and smooth before starting, removing the seal if done improperly can leave what appears as minor damage in the housing. Sine I have installed 1000's of seals and bearings ( tapered roller have absolutely no forgiveness if you made a mistake, pulling them off they become garbage, ball bearings can be removed with pullers and re-installed depending on size and fit).
So the wall thickness for a seal driver is somewhat important, more importantly you want something about 0.008 to .015 inch smaller in OD than the housing for the seal, if a loose fit, use a sealant such as silicone as a lube, let it set up and cure, if it is a tight fit, nothing else is needed. I started out saying just because you have a OEM seal driver means nothing, this may come as a surprise, I have seen overanxious apprentices damage a new seal and it was barely started into the housing, what happened? They used the driver from the start before the seal was flush below the housing opening. What I have done is use the back side of a socket that is slightly larger than the OD of the seal, striking the socket, also check to make sure you are going in square, once you are flush, now use the driver
, again make sure you hold the driver square, take your time, very easy to damage a seal if you drive on a slight angle, if you pay attention, it will be obvious when you hit bottom.
Since I am talking also driving bearings, for installations like the wheel bearings of the Versys or any other sealed bearing,and briefly about bearings, 2zz is a double shielded dust cap bearing, a 2RS is two ring seals, whenever possible upgrade to ring seals over dust shields. Bearings have come a long way, it is common to have something like a 6205 2RS C3 , the C3 is the clearance between races, pay attention, using a 6205 2RS in place of a 6205 2RS C3 will spell early bearing failure especially if high speed and large temperature changes are involved https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j...8sR1EgiULelXGl
So driving bearings, into a housing like our wheel bearings, you can use the old bearing to drive the new bearing until it is flush, I use heat provided no seals are involved ( just saying, using heat or dry ice liquid nitrogen is beyond this forum or anything anyone on this forum would need concerning working on their bike) . Same goes installing bearings, they make induction bearing heaters and ovens for heating bearings, both used again by professionals , many times I just used a driver for bearings the size of 6205 or 6206, anything larger I always used the bearing heater for motor shafts.
So same rule applies, make sure the bearings are going in square, going in crooked and using more force is a good way for new bearing failure. One thing I will mention, if bearings are going, don't wait, a common failure on motors was waiting too long, the outer race started turning in the housing causing wear, a quick fix was to loctite the new bearing into the housing, only problem is if there was a thrust washer in the same housing ( this is to allow for expansion and contraction of the rotor ) loctiting doesn't allow movement which can also cause failure.
So driving a bearing into a housing can also be easily damaged if using a driver at the start, I have seen buddy drive the seal into the bearing, just a slight slip with the driver, game over, seal is damaged on the bearing , better to hold the old bearing over the new and hit the old bearing with a hammer, worst that can happen is hit a finger, again once flush use the driver with caution.
I hope this helps someone.