Electrical gremlin? - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 03:18 AM Thread Starter
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Electrical gremlin?

Last night while headed to work, I noticed the volt meter on my dash (little light bar ranging from 11-16 Volts) started showing the volts around 11-12 volts while sitting at idle instead of the normal 14-15 volts. The volts would go back to "normal" when I revved the engine past 2000 RPMs, but it would drop as soon as it was below 2000 RPMs.

Having read the regulator and stator threads, I am more confused now than I was before I started reading. I'm thinking my regulator is what's going bad, but the amount of info on the forums is a little overwhelming to someone with no electrical experience so who knows.

Any suggestions on where to start looking would be appreciated. When I got home from work, I plan on looking for things like a bad ground and I would like to test the regulator as well. How to get to the regulator without removing the gas tank would be very helpful info as I haven't done that before on this bike either.

Thanks in advance.

PS. I know this horse has been beaten to death, but a few more hits won't hurt it right?
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 07:19 AM Thread Starter
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This is why I said "gremlin". It likes to hide

So I ride home and the volt meter would show 3 green lights when I was at idle or less than 3500 RPM. It didn't do the same thing on the way home that it did on the way into work. When I parked in the garage at home, then the volt meter on the bike dropped to 0 green lights and 2 orange lights indicating about 12 volts I believe. Above 3500 RPM I had a steady 2 green lights and rarely 3 green lights. Normally when I'm riding at speed, I would see 3 green and sometimes only 2 regardless of electrical accessories. I only have heated grips and some LED aux lights on the bike. Didn't need the heated grips so that shouldn't have had anything to do with it.

I have the same volt meter that I think Fasteddiecopeman has. he's the one who recommended it to me anyways.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 11:50 AM
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...I have the same volt meter that I think Fasteddiecopeman has. he's the one who recommended it to me anyways.
On my '15 V650 I have one of these (Head's Up? Voltage Monitor - Signal Dynamics) which works very well, while on the '08 V650 I have a "voltage-indicator" (NOT good in sunlight) plus a LARGER LED which also isn't great in sunlight....

[FIRST 3 are the '15, while #4 was my '09, while #5 is my '08.]
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notyou83 View Post
This is why I said "gremlin". It likes to hide

So I ride home and the volt meter would show 3 green lights when I was at idle or less than 3500 RPM. It didn't do the same thing on the way home that it did on the way into work. When I parked in the garage at home, then the volt meter on the bike dropped to 0 green lights and 2 orange lights indicating about 12 volts I believe. Above 3500 RPM I had a steady 2 green lights and rarely 3 green lights. Normally when I'm riding at speed, I would see 3 green and sometimes only 2 regardless of electrical accessories. I only have heated grips and some LED aux lights on the bike. Didn't need the heated grips so that shouldn't have had anything to do with it.

I have the same volt meter that I think Fasteddiecopeman has. he's the one who recommended it to me anyways.
use a multimeter on the battery to be sure of your volts before you check anything else
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 01:38 PM
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Stator Test / Idle 1350 RPM

I moved some pertinent threads to member only due to restrictions in the How To Forum. The very first photo shows my 07 testing the stator, it is extremely important to do this at roughly 2000 RPM or better using the idle screw, I explained many times, and be sure the bike is warmed up, the idle screw is maintaining a accurate fixed RPM output however we are looking for a difference between phases, you may also get lucky as several members found a burnt connection in this connector coming from the stator, not doing anything about a bad connection will lead to stator failure and regulator failure.The second post describes everything you need, also numerous photos of the MK-1 which, your bike is 2009
You can also access the regulator which is just in front of your rear wheel, I would pull the connector and make sure nothing is burnt or corroded which has also happened as unless you have a hugger or mud flap, this regulator gets hit with water and mud, several have had corroded connections here. The 3 black are the 3 phase in.
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...eams-dead.html
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks onewizard. I'll read through those posts and see what I can find.

My apologies fasteddiecopeman. I could have sworn you were whom recommended the meter I have.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 08:16 PM
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Testing the battery voltage, stator and regulator/rectifier are all pretty doable if you have the shop manual and a multimeter (and the knowledge to use it). Read and re-read threads/manual/etc a few times until it begins making a little sense and give it a go...or know your limits and take it in to the shop...

I just replaced my stator and regulator/rectifier. I thought my battery was dead. A new battery still wasn't holding charge. Tested the stator, it was bad. When I took it out, there was clearly one burnt coil.

Good luck!

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 09:32 PM
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Thanks onewizard. I'll read through those posts and see what I can find.

My apologies fasteddiecopeman. I could have sworn you were whom recommended the meter I have.
Three green leds?


Extremely accurate neat little voltmeter, on my 2015, I will go into 1 orange with my gerbing jacket and heated grips at 60% when at idle at a stop light.



Last edited by onewizard; 05-28-2019 at 09:36 PM.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 11:27 PM Thread Starter
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Onewizard, yes, that meter is what I have. I like it, I just wish I had numbers to go with it. I've never seen my bike drop into the orange range until last night.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 12:08 PM
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On a warmer day I will take my variable power supply and get some corresponding numbers, it seems to me the orange are in the 13.2 VDC, but it has been a while since I did that check.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 12:12 PM
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...My apologies fasteddiecopeman. I could have sworn you were whom recommended the meter I have.
I believe that onewizard has the same (or very similar) voltage indicator as you do.

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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
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So I've checked the stator's resistance and that was within specs according to the service manual, but I can't seem to set my multi-meter to the correct setting to find the output voltage from the stator.

How long can I run the bike on the battery before it just dies completely? I assume about 10 minutes so after 3 minutes I get worried.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 12:26 PM
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So I've checked the stator's resistance and that was within specs according to the service manual, but I can't seem to set my multi-meter to the correct setting to find the output voltage from the stator.

How long can I run the bike on the battery before it just dies completely? I assume about 10 minutes so after 3 minutes I get worried.
Can't say for sure, but when the stator "died" in my '08, I rode it for maybe 25 miles till I found a place to phone for a wrecker. The bike's engine will quit once the voltage drops BELOW what's required to run your fuel-pump.


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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 01:06 PM
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Volts AC Same as for house Power

Quote:
Originally Posted by notyou83 View Post
So I've checked the stator's resistance and that was within specs according to the service manual, but I can't seem to set my multi-meter to the correct setting to find the output voltage from the stator.

How long can I run the bike on the battery before it just dies completely? I assume about 10 minutes so after 3 minutes I get worried.
Your setting should be volts AC the same as for checking house power, use the scale closest to less than 100 VAC, but able to measure up to 50 VAC.
I can tell you that measuring resistance of the stator is 98% a waste of time, that 2% is if you find a completely shorted or open connection . I came up with my test procedure and trust me, there is absolutely nothing as accurate out there for in bike testing, provided the bike runs. If you want to know as to how long before you start walking;
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...ut-stator.html

If you are asking for testing , base load is about 160 Watts the battery is 10 amp hour, so you have roughly 50 minutes on a fully charged battery , testing shouldn't take more than 3 minutes, also you should get the bike up to temp before doing that test, as explained in my testing post.

Last edited by onewizard; 06-04-2019 at 01:08 PM.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info guys. I have been running the bike to get it warmed up before messing with it. Gives me an excuse to ride for 10 minutes. I just wish it would quit raining around here so I could mess with it each day until I figure it out.
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