Yep, yep and yep!!!
If I buy a vehicle and it breaks down (because this is what I have, a non-functioning vehicle) and I'm supposed to be OK with this??? This whole thing started with a crappy OEM chain that should have gotten a few more thousand miles on it.
I'll lay off the Versys bashing for now but I will post after the dealership takes care of it. I'll be bringing it down on Saturday and leaving it there until it's fixed. Which means I'll be shelling out more $$$.
My apologies if I'm ruffling feathers as it's not my intention. I cannot wait until I can get rid of this motorcycle. You all enjoy yours and, SERIOUSLY, I'm glad you all love yours and they're up and running for you.
Ride safe and enjoy.
150% on the crappy chain, like Ford and GM, everyone cuts corners. My 07 Versys had 30,000 KM on the original chain when I sold it. My 2015 the chain was garbage from day one, at 12,000 KM I scraped it, one six inch section was stretched , DID chain, ever hear of a chain exploding , DID chain, don't buy it, I went with EK chain https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...978-post7.html
Twisted Throttle carries it.
As to the sprocket nut, no doubt it is a bad design , as a professional , when you are faced with what has been known as a challenge, you take a close look. Just like when you have a bolt that is almost 100% seized in a blind hole, if you have movement then it gets tight, you don't apply more force, you start applying a lube and or heat, applying WD40 or something similar, letting it soak, working backwards and forwards, you eventually get it out.
If you look closely the sprocket nut already has chamfer corners, a six point socket is meant to drive on the flats, a good impact socket will have rounded corners, that nut lacks sufficient surface area for the force that it is torqued to, there is a reason, the last thing you want is to replace the splined shaft.
Believe it or not but impact sockets are all six point and a set is usually cheaper than a regular socket set. Here is a set for $25 And a word of advice, never
use a regular 12 point socket with a air impact or electric impact, I have seen them ( 12 point socket) explode, dam near killed a guy, what I am saying is, it is dangerous and very unprofessional
10mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 17mm, 18mm, 19mm, 21mm, 22mm, 24mm, 27mm, 30mm, 32mm
Thought of a comparison with my car, a 2005 CE Toyota Sienna AWD, yup, came with runflats , try finding a place that can change a tire on a alloy rim, yes, in desperation I went to Canadian tire, fortunately the service manager stepped in and told the kid that was almost succeeding in destroying my alloy rim, that to stop, and for me to go somewhere else. I went to a tire dealer that changed these tires, it takes two people and a very special machine to change 1 tire, worth $400, Toyota replaced them under warranty, next time they wore out I replaced them with regular tires and got a full size spare. The reason was the AWD didn't have room for a spare and be able to fold the seats down, so if I want a sheet of plywood, I take the middle two seats out, and take my spare out and ratchet tie it down using the middle seat in floor mounts.
This forum is one of the most active I know of, I can only speak for myself, 90% of advice given is from my own experience or from advice given to me by others and I followed that advice. Many times I leave specifics out such as never use a 12 point with a impact, because I am a multi-trade person and have been there and done that. Try getting called in at 11PM on a 100 HP motor with bearing failure and you can't get the drive coupling off, you are by yourself and need to use heat and the impact on the 3 jaw puller, you get it moving about a inch and the pullers come off. Yes now you need to let things cool down and start over, the next time you put a visegrip chain wrench around the pullers to keep the jaws in place. Try removing four 3/8 silicone bronze bolt, fastening a 1/4 by 4 inch copper buss , bolted between several 1/4 by 12 inch copper buss with a 1 1/8 inch gap between, lots of patience , professional long open and box end wrenches.
Anyway most of us take the time and effort to try and help others, rarely is a post ignored, responding to your posts, at times can be intimidating, and yet I still respond, as maybe someone else may learn from this.
BTW , even I take things to the dealer , glad I did with the Sienna, drive shaft was over $2000 , had a aftermarket rebuilt installed, about 2 months over a year I noticed a vibration at above 100 KM/HR, thought it was the multifit rims ( scraped those rims and got the proper hub-centric rims ) with the snow tires, when I put the summer tires on it was still there. My excellent dealer said they could get the U joints for the front part, they replaced it for like $200, I came back as it was worse, in the end they called me and said it would take another day, they replaced the whole drive shaft at their cost , the one I had originally installed over a year ago was a aftermarket something like $1100. That is customer service. No way I was putting it up on ramps and jacking the rear up, and it would have cost me $1100 , not $200 what I paid, plus they washed the car