2011 Kawasaki Versys Ignition difficulty - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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2011 Kawasaki Versys Ignition difficulty

Hi all,

I have owned my bike for a couple years now but have been finding myself not riding it much unfortunately.
Last summer it started giving me issues which persist today after taking the bike out of storage.

I have been doing my research and you guys have by far the most knowledge and was hoping to get another opinion.
When starting the bike, you can hear a clicking sound but the bike won't start. Sometime while staying pressed on the ignition, it does, sometimes it doesn't right away.
What I have noticed is that using the throttle a little seems to help getting it going.

Here is a little video describing this issue.


I have changed the battery after filming this video thinking I didn't have enough juice but that didn't help either.
I have noticed that I am idling a little low, around 900 when the bike is warm so I will get that sorted this weekend.

I was thinking that my starter relay is starting to go. The only part I was able to find (living in Canada) costs $45 so thought I'd check and see if that could be the issue or if someone had other thoughts.

Maybe it's worth noting that a couple times last year, the bike wouldn't start at all. By running along it with the clutch in and pressing the ignition switch it somehow managed to start this way a couple times to get back home.

Thanks for any tips.

Cheers
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 11:59 AM
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Idle is too low. Mine was difficult to start when the idle was set too low...

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 12:02 PM
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First you are stuck in this thread until you get full membership read this ;https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...ber-intro.html

Couple places you need to check & clean, the engines ground and the frame ground, engine cn be accessed from the footbrake side of the bike, this is the 8 gauge wire coming from your negative post of the battery. A very common problem, my 07 was corroded, I have a post on this as to removing the aluminum oxide using a red scotch brite pad ( those sponges for dishwashing have them, actual scotch brite come in red ( prefered) , green, and white.) Use a copper based Kopr cote or really good dielectric grease https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/p...3747p.html#srp

Next you need a meter that reads volts DC, connect across the start solenoid contacts. Two things, 1st make sure the solenoid is pulling in. No time for pin outs today but the 2 lighter wires are the coil circuit the heavy wires , one is positive from the main fuse and the other goes to the starter.
What you want to do is connect across the start contacts, you will read the battery voltage or you should. This is what to look for, watch your meter, you should here the start relay click which is under the gas tank, if nothing happens, connect across the small wires of the start solenoid, try again this time you should hear the start relay click under the tank and also get your battery voltage, again if no turning over and you got the voltage across the coil circuit. Next test, pushing the start button, feel if you are getting a clicking at the solenoid, this is to establish the coil circuit, it is possible to have the start solenoid coil open circuit , if this is the case you will not have a headlight as the headlight uses the start solenoid ground.
Notice start relay and start solenoid , yes two devices, the solenoid carries the start current and is likely at fault.

Watched your video , money is on the solenoid, however I definitely would check the engine ground. The way it is is excellent for proving this, one further test to do, go from battery positive to the small wires, one should read slightly less the full battery volts, the other should read full battery volts ( the full volts is the coil ground)
If you get the coil circuit of the solenoid engaged 5 out of 5 tries, and read full battery volts across the solenoid load contacts, your solenoid is pooched. Again that engine ground is 100% important to check.

Last edited by onewizard; 03-29-2019 at 12:10 PM.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Snowdallos View Post
...I have noticed that I am idling a little low, around 900 when the bike is warm so I will get that sorted this weekend....
Your idle rpm is WAY TOO LOW! Check your OWNERS MANUAL - it says to set 1350 rpm.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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So I’ve increased my idling to 1350 as instructed and kept trying to start it on and off.

Now the bike really likes to start with the clutch in even though it’s in neutral and there are lots of noises going on when turning the key which is unusual. No noises when the on switched is set to on whosever.

Check it out

https://youtu.be/V8pr5MX1Uoc
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 07:47 PM
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Try it in neutral. kick stand up. and clutch out.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 09:01 PM
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Looking PDF Version MK-2 / Mistakes

So first thing I noticed your green neutral light is on, this is a input to the ECU , in neutral the kick stand can be up or down or just gone. Pushing the start button should work every time. The clutch switch enables starting with the bike in gear, in this position a kickstand down will defeat the clutch switch. Just getting started here.

So have a PDF version of the MK-2 open. First thing I notice is mistakes in labeling. #16-72 item 9 or 10 labeled main 30 amp fuse, just pointing this out, as that is also the start solenoid

Fast forward to 16-80 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM , and I wonder why some guys have trouble following the electrical!
16-81 3rd photo 3rd line down Pull out the main fuse [A] from the starter relay with needle nose pliers.
That isn't a relay , that is your start solenoid

16-45 is the ignition system drawing, note #24 is the main fuse / start solenoid


(I am suggesting here if you measure across the small wires of the start solenoid and get nothing when pushing the start button, also when pulling in the clutch , would indicate the start relay is not energizing, proving the start relay isn't energizing is by means of measuring across the solenoid coil circuit / small wires, at this point, if no 12VDC when pushing the start button, you need to go to the relay box, possible loose connector or corroded terminals )

Looking at the main drawing I am using 16-16 and 16-17 , same mislabeling starter circuit relay item #5 in relay box to the right see 30 amp main fuse and above called Starter relay in all my posts I refer to this as a start solenoid Something I have always called for over 40 years on cars, the solenoid was the thing mounted on the starter and carried the high current for starting, some engaged a lever that forced the starter gear out to engage.

So pay attention, note item D: Starter Circuit Relay ,to item #5 relay box , notice all the diodes , now go to 16-80 there is a breakdown on this, you will need to lift the gas tank and set it off to the side, you can check the diodes forward and reverse except for the one on 16, here you will be getting the resistance of the coil, NP you just want to see that the diodes aren't shorted or open . You could also have a corroded 10 pin socket ( the start relay wiring is the 10 pin, 11 to 16 )

Last edited by onewizard; 03-30-2019 at 10:02 AM.
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