Electrical relays/Other/ MK-1 and MK-2 $ MK-3 /Not brilliant with electrical stuff! - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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Electrical relays/Other/ MK-1 and MK-2 $ MK-3 /Not brilliant with electrical stuff!

As the title says...

Always had an issue with electrical work. So, I have my new motorcycle dash camera. When I had this on my CTX I connected the RED wire to the battery and grounded the black. Never had issues.
Now, I'd rather do it the right way! (Or "safe" way!) According to the manual there are two wires, RED and BLACK. I'm supposed to ground the BLACK and RED into the fuse box. I know how to tap into another wire, which I'd prefer, than to screw something up in the fuse box...but not sure what wire and color, or where "said" wire would be!

I know there's a Harley guy on YouTube that connected his to the rear license plate light. Since I have my brake modulator on those wires I could get back in there but, if so, what wire would I be looking for?

Any assistance would be appreciated!

Also, the BikerMate website doesn't really help, nor do their directions.

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post #2 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 09:33 PM
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LIf you have a test light ( electrical test pen) find the nearest live wire. Switch ON and find which is near and convenient for you to make the connection. Brake light is one which most of us use as trigger. Most live wire are RED in color. Black neutral and Green is earth.

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...EM_STORE_DETAI

https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...5-earlier.html

Get one of this if you don't have one.
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post #3 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 06:36 AM
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With 2 accessory wires unconnected (on in the dash, one on the left frame near the turn signal) all feeding 12V if you buy a relay, there is no reason at all to tap a wire.

If you don't have anything but a simple device, you can pick the 12v from the relay connector under the dash.
The violet is a direct 12V on a 15A fuse.
The Brown-white is the ignition 12V, on a 10A fuse (but if you burn that one, you stop a bunch of things)
The black-yellow is the ground.
All you need is 2 flat 1/4in connector to slot into the relay connector.

If you want unswitched 12V, the violet is a good place to start, given it's dedicated fuse.
If you want ignition-switched 12v, with a low current no-shortcut-risk device like a voltmeter, you can pick the brown-white.
If you want ignition-switched 12v, without risking to burn the ignition fuse, you need a relay.
After the relay is plugged in, the dangling connectors mentioned earlier are fed with ignition, on a 5A dedicated fuse.

Honestly, buy the relay. It makes the setup cleaner and future proof.
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post #4 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 07:48 AM
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Do a search for accessory leads. Several post on how to hook up different items and should tell you if you need to get the relay to power them. I think it came as standard equipment on 2016 and newer.
It should help you to wire it to the accessory leads at the front of the bike or the ones under the seat. I used a cheap relay of ebay not the expensive one from Kawasaki. This will make it a switched connection with a 5 amp fuze in it already.
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post #5 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 08:48 AM
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2018 650 Versys

You should always state your model & year, I looked it up. You have several choices, your owners manual explains the location of auxiliary power. Which is what I would suggest you use. The MK-3 has grounds in the front of the bike, also this aux. power. Many options but before I go further look into my suggestion.
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post #6 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpd View Post
Do a search for accessory leads. Several post on how to hook up different items and should tell you if you need to get the relay to power them. I think it came as standard equipment on 2016 and newer.

It should help you to wire it to the accessory leads at the front of the bike or the ones under the seat. I used a cheap relay of ebay not the expensive one from Kawasaki. This will make it a switched connection with a 5 amp fuze in it already.
I made a video about getting power to the accessories leads. It might help once you identify where they are assuming the wiring is similar in your model


Sent from my ASUS_X01BDA using Tapatalk
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post #7 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 03:51 PM
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I made a video about getting power to the accessories leads. It might help once you identify where they are assuming the wiring is similar in your model
I'm sorry but despite accuracy, I would not recommend taking this route.
You can get a usb socket WITH the relay that fits the versys directly, no fuss.
for like 20$.

https://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_from...+relay&_sop=15

it's a deal even without the usb...
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post #8 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dddd View Post
I'm sorry but despite accuracy, I would not recommend taking this route.
You can get a usb socket WITH the relay that fits the versys directly, no fuss.
for like 20$.

https://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_from...+relay&_sop=15

it's a deal even without the usb...
I'd like this IF these were simply 12V power sockets, but the fact that they are cheap Chinese-made USB interfaces makes it a no-go for me. I paid way too much money on my phone and other electronic devices to plug them directly into those noisy and potentially dangerous power supplies. There is a great deal of documented evidence of cheap USB power interfaces with poorly-regulated outputs and deficient filtering and isolation. Very few of these actually adhere to the USB specification and they can cause damage. I will always prefer a standard 12V interface (car socket, SAE, etc) with which I can use my own USB adapter designed to standard specs by a reputable company using proper quality control practices. Plus it gives me the option to upgrade as USB technology changes.
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post #9 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by leftbrain99 View Post
I'd like this IF these were simply 12V power sockets, but the fact that they are cheap Chinese-made USB interfaces makes it a no-go for me. I paid way too much money on my phone and other electronic devices to plug them directly into those noisy and potentially dangerous power supplies. There is a great deal of documented evidence of cheap USB power interfaces with poorly-regulated outputs and deficient filtering and isolation. Very few of these actually adhere to the USB specification and they can cause damage. I will always prefer a standard 12V interface (car socket, SAE, etc) with which I can use my own USB adapter designed to standard specs by a reputable company using proper quality control practices. Plus it gives me the option to upgrade as USB technology changes.
You entirely missed the point: forget the usb, it's for the relay that comes with it. Just the kawi oem price would be well over.

if could actually find the relay alone, even better. I couldn't beat that price.
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post #10 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 06:12 PM
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Fair enough, but I didn't entirely miss the point - I just addressed part of the point you made that was arguably irrelevant to the thread.

Anyway, Partzilla is selling the OEM "relay" by Omron for $17.66.

https://www.partzilla.com/product/ka..._ref=999940556

Not sure who makes that ebay part, but I don't even think there's anything actually electromechanical about this "relay" - it seems to simply short the accessory bullet connectors to switched power.
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Last edited by leftbrain99; 02-26-2019 at 07:31 PM.
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post #11 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by leftbrain99 View Post
Fair enough, but I didn't entirely miss the point - I just addressed part of the point you made that was arguably irrelevant to the thread.

Anyway, Partzilla is selling the OEM "relay" by Omron for $17.66.

https://www.partzilla.com/product/ka..._ref=999940556

Not sure who makes that ebay part, but I don't even think there's anything actually electromechanical about this "relay" - it seems to simply short the accessory bullet connectors to switched power.
highlighted area, wrong

I have several threads related to relays;
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...thing-etc.html

https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...n-outlets.html

https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...5-earlier.html

https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...ed-lights.html


https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...elay+headlight

I have several 40 amp relays in use here @ $4 each including wired socket, marked R for right and L for left, for my Barkbuster led signal and running lights, also the same $4 relay for the accessory power of 25 amp ;





This is the same layout as OEM minus the rubber boot, FYI no worries about water entering the $4 relays provide they are mounted vertical. I did get the OEM relay as part of my $300 extras from my dealer ( about $23 Canadian )



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Last edited by onewizard; 02-26-2019 at 09:15 PM.
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post #12 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 09:51 PM
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@Devilsfan
So as per your original question, by directly connecting your dashcam to the battery would mean that it had power regardless of whether the bike was switched on/off.
Is this how you want it now as well? As in always on dashcam?
If yes, then connecting via accessories leads will not work for you since dashcam will be switched off when bike is switched off. One possible 'right' way to do this would be to connect the red wire to a low voltage cutoff (something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Galley-Power-.../dp/B0147DYUN8) which then connects to the battery positive and ground. This way your battery is protectected from overdraw while staying on as long as the battery has adequate charge.
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post #13 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 05:32 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RKA View Post
@Devilsfan
So as per your original question, by directly connecting your dashcam to the battery would mean that it had power regardless of whether the bike was switched on/off.
Is this how you want it now as well? As in always on dashcam?
If yes, then connecting via accessories leads will not work for you since dashcam will be switched off when bike is switched off. One possible 'right' way to do this would be to connect the red wire to a low voltage cutoff (something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Galley-Power-.../dp/B0147DYUN8) which then connects to the battery positive and ground. This way your battery is protectected from overdraw while staying on as long as the battery has adequate charge.

The BikerPro has a "Power Module" with the RED and BLACK wires coming out. On the RED wire is also a fuse. Not exactly sure what the "Power Module" does (except "modulate the power"!) but you hook the USB cables to the "power Module" then the one USB goes to the "Main Controller" and the other USB will go out to the camera lens.

I want to say that the "Power Modulator" was what turned the camera on and off when I turned the ignition key off. Not quite sure if I'm right or how the "Power Module" can tell, coming off the battery, whether the ignition is off or on. All I know is that it worked on my CTX! So I'm sure I screwed up something!!!

According to the (limited) directions whatever power source I hook it to the camera should turn off when I turn the ignition off. ***At the same time, there's a setting (that I never used) where you can make the camera turn on in the case that your motorcycle is parked and someone bumps it.

I'll let you go from there!
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post #14 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Devilsfan View Post
The BikerPro has a "Power Module" with the RED and BLACK wires coming out. On the RED wire is also a fuse. Not exactly sure what the "Power Module" does (except "modulate the power"!) but you hook the USB cables to the "power Module" then the one USB goes to the "Main Controller" and the other USB will go out to the camera lens.



I want to say that the "Power Modulator" was what turned the camera on and off when I turned the ignition key off. Not quite sure if I'm right or how the "Power Module" can tell, coming off the battery, whether the ignition is off or on. All I know is that it worked on my CTX! So I'm sure I screwed up something!!!



According to the (limited) directions whatever power source I hook it to the camera should turn off when I turn the ignition off. ***At the same time, there's a setting (that I never used) where you can make the camera turn on in the case that your motorcycle is parked and someone bumps it.



I'll let you go from there!
The power module is basically a 12V to 5V transformer. If would highly recommend using the accessories relay, however if you really don't want to deal with it then get a fuse tap wire and tap the accessories fuse to get another connection out (the fuse box will probably not close completely though). Connect the red from the power module to this new connection and the black to battery negative. Lots of videos on how to add a fuse tap.

All the best.

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post #15 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 09:41 AM
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Innovv Camera

Quote:
Originally Posted by Devilsfan View Post
The BikerPro has a "Power Module" with the RED and BLACK wires coming out. On the RED wire is also a fuse. Not exactly sure what the "Power Module" does (except "modulate the power"!) but you hook the USB cables to the "power Module" then the one USB goes to the "Main Controller" and the other USB will go out to the camera lens.

I want to say that the "Power Modulator" was what turned the camera on and off when I turned the ignition key off. Not quite sure if I'm right or how the "Power Module" can tell, coming off the battery, whether the ignition is off or on. All I know is that it worked on my CTX! So I'm sure I screwed up something!!!

According to the (limited) directions whatever power source I hook it to the camera should turn off when I turn the ignition off. ***At the same time, there's a setting (that I never used) where you can make the camera turn on in the case that your motorcycle is parked and someone bumps it.

I'll let you go from there!
Now your unit may be like the Oxford grips that automatically turns off when it detects the battery voltage drop about 0.6 VDC . It depends on how you want to approach this, the simple way would be to install a fused circuit from the battery.
There are about 3 connections in the harness that are live all the time, the key switch and regulator, tapping into these only saves wire length and then where do you put the fuse ( always fuse and keep as close to actual current as possible, your camera is probably less than 1 amp, use a 2 amp maximum fuse for example).

There is also according to the drawing, the 5 amp auxiliary wiring power in the front. I looked at the drawing and it appears a V violet wire comes from fuse box #2 with a 5 amp fuse, however the colour code chart does not have a V violet in it.
I have included a link with a photo of this relay and socket, the plug has a switched circuit i.e. Violet positive power ; W/BL white with blue tracer which goes to multiple bullet connectors ( this is positive switched provided you have the relay) ; a control circuit of BR/W brown with white tracer positive for coil and a BK/Y black with yellow tracer , negative ground for the coil circuit. So your positive red goes to violet and negative black goes to Black with yellow tracer.

So according to the drawing, if you want a 5 amp live all the time circuit here you go
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...53-post99.html

I have the Innovv camera with built in battery, wired to a keyed 12 volt source, when keying off the camera runs a additional 30 minutes or can be programmed I think to detect movement, from either front or rear lens.
I was in a hurray when I posted, to the left of the Innovv you will see a square device with a yellow wire coming out, that is the power supply and the yellow wire goes to a switched connection, I think I used the tail light.

Last edited by onewizard; 02-27-2019 at 06:54 PM.
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post #16 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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[quote]
So according to the drawing, if you want a 5 amp live all the time circuit here you go
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...53-post99.html


OK, I see the black "box" in your hand. What is that? Is it something additional I have to buy and, if so, can I get one of those at the auto store? Brand/Name/Description?


Quote:
I have the Innovv camera with built in battery, wired to a keyed 12 volt source, when keying off the camera runs a additional 30 minutes or can be programmed I think to detect movement, from either front or rear lens.
I can't see in the picture where your Innovv camera RED wire is connected. If it's easy enough I can try mine how you have yours set up. Did you buy an additional piece?
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post #17 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 07:15 PM
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[quote=Devilsfan;1608167]
Quote:
So according to the drawing, if you want a 5 amp live all the time circuit here you go


https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...53-post99.html


OK, I see the black "box" in your hand. What is that? Is it something additional I have to buy and, if so, can I get one of those at the auto store? Brand/Name/Description?




I can't see in the picture where your Innovv camera RED wire is connected. If it's easy enough I can try mine how you have yours set up. Did you buy an additional piece?
Wrong, that link / photo was to show the 4 pin socket provided by Kawasaki, the wire according to the drawing is Violet. So approaching this another way, and it probably would be faster for me to go out in my garage and pop the front plastic. It is cold out there and I don't feel like it.
So the other way of looking at this, that socket in the photo of that link has for wires, the relay was shown ( Omron 27002 is the relay that plugs into the socket shown on his fingertips )to the right which is in Bale 2011 3rd photo down. So if you look at that socket on your motorcycle, you should have a ; white with blue tracer; a brown with white tracer; a black with yellow trace which is negative ground and a fourth wire which according to the drawing is violet, whatever colour that fourth wire is, it is directly connected to fuse box #2 cct # 1 with a 5 amp fuse live at all times. If you wish to have both a live and switched power source, add the Omron or similar relay, the provided bullet connectors in the bike will then be live when keyed on, in addition you could still tap into that fourth wire which I say is Violet.
So to repeat myself, if you want a live all the time fused 5 amp source , you need to spend $00.00 dollars USD, use the violet ( positive to camera red) and ground ( black / yellow connected to your camera black) I hope this helps clear things up.
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[quote=onewizard;1608179]
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Wrong, that link / photo was to show the 4 pin socket provided by Kawasaki, the wire according to the drawing is Violet. So approaching this another way, and it probably would be faster for me to go out in my garage and pop the front plastic. It is cold out there and I don't feel like it.
So the other way of looking at this, that socket in the photo of that link has for wires, the relay was shown ( Omron 27002 is the relay that plugs into the socket shown on his fingertips )to the right which is in Bale 2011 3rd photo down. So if you look at that socket on your motorcycle, you should have a ; white with blue tracer; a brown with white tracer; a black with yellow trace which is negative ground and a fourth wire which according to the drawing is violet, whatever colour that fourth wire is, it is directly connected to fuse box #2 cct # 1 with a 5 amp fuse live at all times. If you wish to have both a live and switched power source, add the Omron or similar relay, the provided bullet connectors in the bike will then be live when keyed on, in addition you could still tap into that fourth wire which I say is Violet.
So to repeat myself, if you want a live all the time fused 5 amp source , you need to spend $00.00 dollars USD, use the violet ( positive to camera red) and ground ( black / yellow connected to your camera black) I hope this helps clear things up.

I will have a look at the front part. Hopefully it will start making sense to my dumbass!!!

Appreciate the help!
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post #19 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-28-2019, 08:43 AM
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[quote=Devilsfan;1608187]
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I will have a look at the front part. Hopefully it will start making sense to my dumbass!!!

Appreciate the help!
Well I only thought it, good thing you have a sense of humor , I was going to suggest to never tackle household wiring, you might kill yourself or others.
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post #20 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-28-2019, 04:42 PM
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[quote=onewizard;1608225]
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Well I only thought it, good thing you have a sense of humor , I was going to suggest to never tackle household wiring, you might kill yourself or others.
Well, you'll never forget the first time you feel the sensation of 120V 60Hz coursing through your arm. Well, I guess if you hold on to it long enough you might forget everything that happened.
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