How can I "reconnect" the rear ABS on my 2011 Versys 650? - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-26-2019, 07:09 AM Thread Starter
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How can I "reconnect" the rear ABS on my 2011 Versys 650?

I bought the bike very recently and was told that the ABS has been "disconnected". Actually, the front ABS works fine (I have tested it), but the rear doesn't - I can sure slide that rear wheel; not always when I want to! Everything I have read on this forum says "disconnecting" only the rear can't be done, but it is on my bike!

Unfortunately, I can't get back in touch with the previous owner and I have no idea how he "disconnected" the rear ABS. The ABS light works normally, staying on until I start moving and then turning off. The rear sensor is in place, and isn't blocked in any way (I have taken it off and refitted it to check). From what I can see the cable and terminal plug that come from the rear ABS are correctly plugged into the appropriate matching plug.

Any ideas how he could have done this? How I can fix it? This is a lot of bike and I could really do with that rear ABS working :-)

Any help much appreciated - thank you.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-26-2019, 07:15 AM
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So, what country are you in because no ABS in the States until '14.

How do you know the ABS has been "disconnected" as opposed to "no longer works"?

The previous owner tell you that he disconnected it? If I were in your situation I would get a service manual and start troubleshooting.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-26-2019, 07:25 AM Thread Starter
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I'm in Thailand. All had ABS here since at least 2010. I have no real reason to think the guy was lying, but, yes, if nobody has a better idea, troubleshooting it is - or probably taking it to a good shop I know...
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-26-2019, 11:01 AM
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I agree with twowheeladdict. "Disconnected" sounds way better than "doesn't work" when selling a vehicle. If you see nothing physical blocking it from working and unless he was able to some how reprogram the ECU, it's most likely broken. Might just be a bad sensor.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-27-2019, 07:36 AM
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I would think that it isn't sensors specifically because the front abs works. Sensors are the feedback. If any sensor were faulty the abs light would stay on.

It makes a lot more sense that it would a faulty endpoint, like some solenoid not opening some release valve. I don't know exactly how this works but if the ABS/ECU are fooled, that's because the fault is occurring far where there is no feedback.

For gen 3, based on the existence of abs service code 13 and 14 (Rear intake/outlet solenoid valve trouble (shorted or open, stuck valve)), we have to come to the evidence that even the solenoids are sensors themselves.

In your case, if I had to mess around, I think I would have to either:

a) fake the rear solenoid valve with a resistance, the abs unit would think it is neither short nor cut

b) or share the front wheel rotation sensor to fake the rear rotation sensor, to pretend the rear wheel is rolling... What a mess! But this might not even work; if this worked, and if you used both brakes, you would feel the abs pulsating in the rear pedal when front abs is engaged...

Assuming you find the service manual in the howtos on this site, ans assuming the gen3 is similar to '11 abs design, you can easily figure the service code yourself. Too long to explain here though.

This question is quite interesting!
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-27-2019, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimShortz View Post
I bought the bike very recently and was told that the ABS has been "disconnected". Actually, the front ABS works fine (I have tested it), but the rear doesn't - I can sure slide that rear wheel; not always when I want to! Everything I have read on this forum says "disconnecting" only the rear can't be done, but it is on my bike!

Unfortunately, I can't get back in touch with the previous owner and I have no idea how he "disconnected" the rear ABS. The ABS light works normally, staying on until I start moving and then turning off. The rear sensor is in place, and isn't blocked in any way (I have taken it off and refitted it to check). From what I can see the cable and terminal plug that come from the rear ABS are correctly plugged into the appropriate matching plug.

Any ideas how he could have done this? How I can fix it? This is a lot of bike and I could really do with that rear ABS working :-)

Any help much appreciated - thank you.
I had a look at the service manual, 2010-2011 (KLE650D ) Section 12 has a very extensive testing procedure, I looked at the main wiring drawing and it was not obvious how only the rear is disabled, I have several questions, one, if your front wheel locks up does the ABS fire both front and rear hydraulics, as you should have pulsing in both, if so, then the next is I assume you can lock up the rear and absolutely no pulsing?
Like I said, there are pages of tests to do, requiring a digital volt meter, there is a diagnostics socket and instructions . My first guess is he may have pulled a pin at the ABS unit going to the ECU, so following the manual would be the way to go.

Will send a PM with a link.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-27-2019, 01:50 PM
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yeah, that manual chapter looks the same as the gen3. At least the self-diagnose procedure and codes are.
really worth starting from there. it takes about 1 minute to do, no joke.

a) under the seat near the abs fuses and tools pouch, there is an input jack unconnected. this is the sefl diag terminal.

b) with ignition off, ground this jack.

c) turn the ignition on and watch the abs light blinks; all codes are mades of long blinks for the 10x digit, and short blinks for th e1x unit. The normal code like 12 is therefore 1 long and 2 short. Then all these codes are separated by about 3 seconds. There is up to 6 codes max.

12 Start code (not fault)
13 Rear intake solenoid valve trouble(shorted or open, stuck valve)
14 Rear outlet solenoid valve trouble(shorted or open, stuck valve)
17 Front intake solenoid valve trouble(shorted or open, stuck valve)
18 Front outlet solenoid valve trouble(shorted or open, stuck valve)
19 ABS solenoid valve relay trouble (wiring shorted or open, stuck relay)
25 Front, rear tire abnormal (substandard tire, deformation wheel, sensor rotor teeth number wrong)
35 ABS motor relay trouble (wiring shorted, open or lock, stuck relay)
42 Front wheel rotation sensor signal abnormal (sensor or rotor missing, too large clearance, rotor tooth worn or missing)
43 Front wheel rotation sensor wiring abnormal (wiring shorted or open)
44 Rear wheel rotation sensor signal abnormal (sensor or rotor missing, too large clearance, rotor tooth worn or missing)
45 Rear wheel rotation sensor wiring abnormal (wiring shorted or open)
52 Power supply voltage abnormal (low-voltage)
53 Power supply voltage abnormal (over-voltage)
54 ABS solenoid valve relay supply voltage (low voltage)
55 ECU trouble (ECU operation abnormal)

Dont unground and ground 3 times in 12 seconds because that would clear the codes!

Last edited by dddd; 01-27-2019 at 01:52 PM.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 06:05 PM
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so, what code did you get? dont let us hanging! c'mon! LOL
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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so, what code did you get? dont let us hanging! c'mon! LOL
Apologies, been busy - planning to have a go this evening, family permitting! ;-)
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-29-2019, 05:17 AM Thread Starter
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Code 12... No fault! It will be going to the shop next week. I'll let you know the outcome later.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-29-2019, 05:47 AM
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Great, just like mine. See, I have spun the rear wheel intentionally to turn off all abs at least once for offroad in fall 2017. The answer to which code I should get is, you guessed it? ...42.

All that means is, those last 6 codes, that's probably the last 6 ignitions, i.e. (for me at least), if I got 6 times a normal situation, then there is no more old code 42 kept. I guess. I can't imagine the mechanic doing inspection actually bothering with clearing the codes or even knowing how.

I think I'm gonna provoke it by spinning on rear stand, and test again (well, in spring, because despite my curiosity, I don't want to start it in winter).

Without any abnormal codes, and assuming it is not a 'problem', the previous owner certainly knew his way around to fool the rear abs. We'll see.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-29-2019, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by dddd View Post

Assuming you find the service manual in the howtos on this site, ans assuming the gen3 is similar to '11 abs design, you can easily figure the service code yourself. Too long to explain here though.

This question is quite interesting!
I sent a link specific to his model. FYI anytime I see a legit problem and know of a way to help, I follow through, even a PM.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 07:53 AM
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Code 12... No fault! It will be going to the shop next week. I'll let you know the outcome later.
As in the title
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 06:46 AM Thread Starter
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Apologies for the long delay in sharing the outcome, but I only got it finally sorted today.

So... it appears I was lied to - shock horror. The ABS wasn't disconnected, but the very expensive ABS pump had failed. I have today had it replaced with a second-hand one I bought off eBay, from a 2014 bike in the USA, shipped to me here in Thailand - none available anywhere here secondhand!

Now all good, at a fraction of the cost of buying a new pump; even if it did take me two months to catch a secondhand Mk2 pump for sale on ebay. There are loads for sale for the Mk3, but it is clearly a failing part on the Mk2, so they are hard to find. Kawasaki made a different pump for the Mk3 - based on lots of Mk 2 failures I guess.

Anyway, all good now for me. I got the pump shipped from USA to Thailand for about $120 delivered (including customs clearance pre-paid), as opposed to $600+ here for a new pump. I then had it fitted today at a very professional shop, along with other parts of the 24k service that I can't do myself - and the prices for that stuff are fantastic here.

I had... ABS pump fitted, fresh brake fluid, throttle bodies cleaned (needed, they were dirty), plugs replaced, a new vacuum hose, new head bolts installed, and valves checked and shimmed - all for $160 including both parts and labour (labour was $60) :-) happy days!
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Last edited by JimShortz; 04-19-2019 at 06:49 AM.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimShortz View Post
Apologies for the long delay in sharing the outcome, but I only got it finally sorted today.

So... it appears I was lied to - shock horror. The ABS wasn't disconnected, but the very expensive ABS pump had failed. I have today had it replaced with a second-hand one I bought off eBay, from a 2014 bike in the USA, shipped to me here in Thailand - none available anywhere here secondhand!

Now all good, at a fraction of the cost of buying a new pump; even if it did take me two months to catch a secondhand Mk2 pump for sale on ebay. There are loads for sale for the Mk3, but it is clearly a failing part on the Mk2, so they are hard to find. Kawasaki made a different pump for the Mk3 - based on lots of Mk 2 failures I guess.

Anyway, all good now for me. I got the pump shipped from USA to Thailand for about $120 delivered (including customs clearance pre-paid), as opposed to $600+ here for a new pump. I then had it fitted today at a very professional shop, along with other parts of the 24k service that I can't do myself - and the prices for that stuff are fantastic here.

I had... ABS pump fitted, fresh brake fluid, throttle bodies cleaned (needed, they were dirty), plugs replaced, a new vacuum hose, new head bolts installed, and valves checked and shimmed - all for $160 including both parts and labour (labour was $60) :-) happy days!
In the US, 2014 was the only year with ABS before the model change so that is probably why it was hard to find used.

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