clutch problems - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-14-2013, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
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clutch problems

I have been having clutch problems now for a while. In the the upper gears (4,5,6) as I accelerate I end up revving to the redline and then it slowly goes down and engages. I did have problems with the clutch cable as it had WAY to much play and I think I adjusted it to the 2-3 mm play it's ment to have. I have also lubed the cable. It is still revving high and taking a while to engage. I am at a loss and could use any advice. Do I need to get a new clutch? a new cable? it almost has 20,000 miles on it.
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-14-2013, 11:01 PM
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If the cable is correctly adjusted and your oil is clean then your clutch plates are fried. Check your cable is adjusted right according to the manual. Sounds like your not 100% sure if it's right.
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-15-2013, 12:18 AM
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your clutch is slipping is on its way out, if your clutch cable is not too tight don't worry if it's too loose, your going to be replacing the clutch soon.

Last edited by crow; 01-15-2013 at 12:47 AM.
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-15-2013, 02:55 AM
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If clutch is slipping with proper cable slack, you can upgrade the springs... Which engine oil are you using, exactly?

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Originally Posted by invader View Post
Yeah, I don't seem to need them yet, but some have simply upgraded the clutch springs with stiffer ones.

Barnett and EBC clutch springs are about 10% stiffer than stock.

EBC's CSK7 clutch spring set (5) is available for only $8.95. Barnett 501-50-05055 (MT-55-5) spring set for $15.95.

(1st selection) http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/...arch=csk7&mfg=

(1st selection) http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/...16&Search.y=11

How to replace clutch springs:

http://www.riderforums.com/ninja-650...h-springs.html

http://homepages.slingshot.co.nz/~sh...0Ninja650R.pdf

It is possible to remove clutch cover without draining oil, by leaning it over more than side stand allows.

Last edited by invader; 01-15-2013 at 03:08 AM.
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-15-2013, 04:00 AM
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If clutch is slipping with proper cable slack, you can upgrade the springs... Which engine oil are you using, exactly?
Is it worth spending money on a set of heavier springs and not replacing the worn plates as well. The clutch still needs to be removed any which way he goes about it.
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-15-2013, 06:47 AM
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It is common to replace only the weak/weakened clutch springs for stiffer aftermarket ones for sufficient clamping force, hence the links instructing how to do so... Inexpensive and effective upgrade, without the need for new clutch plates. You can always measure your plates to confirm, but they should still be fine, especially if they just started slipping when engaged and under load.

Clutch Specifications-

Friction Plate Thickness:
Standard: 2.92 ∼ 3.08 mm (0.115 ∼ 0.121 in.)
Service Limit: 2.8 mm (0.110 in.)

Friction Plate Warp: 0.15 mm (0.16 in.) or less 0.3 mm (0.012 in.)

Steel Plate Warp: 0.2 mm (0.008 in.) or less 0.3 mm (0.012 in.)

Clutch Spring Free Length: 33.6 mm (1.32 in.) 32.6 mm (1.28 in.)

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ead.php?t=8900

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ead.php?t=5805
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-15-2013, 10:11 AM
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You've lubed and adjusted the clutch but it may have to much of a bend up near the steering head. Take it out of that bracket and work it and see if it's actuating down where it enters the engine case. Several of us had issues with the tight bend early on.

Ride To Live, Live To Ride....no, really!
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-15-2013, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que View Post
I have been having clutch problems now for a while. In the the upper gears (4,5,6) as I accelerate I end up revving to the redline and then it slowly goes down and engages. I did have problems with the clutch cable as it had WAY to much play and I think I adjusted it to the 2-3 mm play it's ment to have. I have also lubed the cable. It is still revving high and taking a while to engage. I am at a loss and could use any advice. Do I need to get a new clutch? a new cable? it almost has 20,000 miles on it.
Where does your clutch dis-engage when you squeeze the lever? IF it's FAR from the handle-bars (the way Ma Kawi ships a LOT [MOST???] of their bikes...), then try LOOSENING (turning it INTO the lever-perch) the adjuster wheel till ONLY several threads show (see picture). That moves the dis-engage point closer to the bars.

To illustrate: the distance the lever moves TOWARDS the bar after dis-engaging is what you have to 'play' with to get the bike moving. The distance AWAY from the dis-engage point is where the clutch "locks-up", and if that point is VERY CLOSE to the dis-engage point, then your clutch is already on the VERGE of slipping!

As well as on BOTH my Vs, I have made these adjustments on several other Kawasakis for friends.

I WILL bet that this is why your clutch is slipping!!!
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-15-2013, 05:45 PM
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Generally once a clutch starts slipping the friction plates burn and the steel plates overheat with hot spots.
If you have clutch lever freeplay ( check at the gearbox end, in case you have a sticking cable) and the clutch is slipping you have a clutch problem. Change the friction plates, steel plates and the springs. Also check the clutch basket for teeth / lug wear.
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-18-2013, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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Invader,
I use castrol oil in my V.
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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-18-2013, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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Invader, El Tig, Fasteddiecopeman

thanks for the advice I will try that out this weekend and report back. Crow and kiwitourer...thanks for the advice if the other less expensive fixes don't work I will have to look into replacing my clutch. I know I am loosing a lot of HP and accelerating on the freeway....well sucks. sorry if I left anyone out.
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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-18-2013, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
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Invader,
I use castrol oil in my V.
Castrol 10W-40 motorcycle oil?
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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 01:51 PM Thread Starter
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5w30
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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que View Post
5w30
Why 5W-30?? Which Castrol?? GTX? Edge with SPT? Edge with TFST?

Friction modifiers in automobile oil can make your clutch slip... You're supposed to use JASO MA rated (for high friction applications/wet clutch) W-40 (0W-40, 5W-40, 10W-40) motorcycle oil. Your clutch plates may be contaminated and require replacement.

5W-30's viscosity is too low (too thin) for you engine... Also, too much oil can contribute to clutch slipping.

Last edited by invader; 01-21-2013 at 08:28 PM.
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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 08:19 PM
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Only engine oils of up to W-30 viscosity can be energy conserving rated. Friction modifiers which are not wet clutch compatible are still found in some automotive W-40 and higher viscosity oils. Motorcycle specific oils are JASO MA certified for high friction applications, as recommended by Kawasaki.

From Castrol; "Note: The low friction characteristics of Castrol Edge 0W-40 make it unsuitable for most motorcycles that incorporate wet clutches in combined engine and transmission systems. Castrolís prime recommendation for this application is Castrol R4 Superbike."

"Castrol does not recommend using automotive oils in motorcycles. In 1996, the American Petroleum Institute (API) upgraded the performance standards of automotive oil from SG to SJ (currently SM). This upgrade impacted the friction modifiers and zinc and phosphorus levels, to address the fuel economy, catalytic converter and pollution issues of passenger car owners. For motorcycles, the additional friction modifiers can affect wet clutch performance, and motorcycle engines appreciate a higher level of the anti-wear ingredients of zinc and phosphorus. We have formulated our line of Castrol Motorcycle oils to be API SG. This allows us to optimize the formula specifically for motorcycles without being constrained by the specification demands for passenger car engines, which our passenger car oil must meet. All Castrol Motorcycle oils have low volatility to reduce the effects of oil evaporation, and they can be up to 50% lower than many API SL/SJ passenger car engine oils. API SJ engine oils have a minimal shear stability requirement; therefore, some types may lose their viscosity more quickly when used in a motorcycle, due to the stresses of these bike engines."
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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-22-2013, 12:12 AM Thread Starter
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I think its the gtx, I have it changed as indicated by the owners guide. I have it done at the bike dealership I bought it from, It came with the package for 3 yrs. Is there a wt. and brand you recommend ?
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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-22-2013, 04:06 AM
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I like Motul 5100 in my bikes that aren't raced every time they are ridden.
The last few hundred thousand Km's have been good for me over a fair few bikes on this oil.
I ride hard but not abusively so and change out the oil every 5000km regardless.

Last edited by crow; 01-22-2013 at 04:16 AM.
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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-22-2013, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
Where does your clutch dis-engage when you squeeze the lever? IF it's FAR from the handle-bars (the way Ma Kawi ships a LOT [MOST???] of their bikes...), then try LOOSENING (turning it INTO the lever-perch) the adjuster wheel till ONLY several threads show (see picture). That moves the dis-engage point closer to the bars.

To illustrate: the distance the lever moves TOWARDS the bar after dis-engaging is what you have to 'play' with to get the bike moving. The distance AWAY from the dis-engage point is where the clutch "locks-up", and if that point is VERY CLOSE to the dis-engage point, then your clutch is already on the VERGE of slipping!

As well as on BOTH my Vs, I have made these adjustments on several other Kawasakis for friends.

I WILL bet that this is why your clutch is slipping!!!


So where should the clutch engage?
I'm worried I don't have it set correctly. There's about 3-5mm of freeplay, so that's good.
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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-22-2013, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
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I think its the gtx, I have it changed as indicated by the owners guide. I have it done at the bike dealership I bought it from, It came with the package for 3 yrs. Is there a wt. and brand you recommend ?
You're saying your dealer is throwing in Castrol GTX 5W-30? If you actually read your manual, you won't see any 5W-30 auto oil recommended. Dump that out ASAP and use W-40 wt (0W-40 or 5W-40 or 10W-40) JASO MA approved motorcycle oil like I already told you. Then you can see if your clutch improves.

Last edited by invader; 01-23-2013 at 12:12 AM.
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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-22-2013, 09:06 PM
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So where should the clutch engage?
I'm worried I don't have it set correctly. There's about 3-5mm of freeplay, so that's good.
IMHO it should dis-engage/ engage in the range of 1 to 1 1/4" from the grip.

In my RCAF career, we had a saying "KISS" - Keep It Simple Stupid. Don't START by looking for the obscure answer, look for the easy one....

Here are pics of where BOTH my Vs are adjusted, and the several other Kawis I mentioned..
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Last edited by fasteddiecopeman; 01-22-2013 at 09:12 PM.
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