Oil leak after valve inspection. - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-26-2018, 08:09 AM Thread Starter
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Oil leak after valve inspection.

Seems I have an oil leak after doing the valve inspection. After a ride I notice several drops of oil on the garage floor the next day. Wipe them up and no more until after the next ride, so I assume a result of hot oil under pressure. Oil level has not dropped noticeably so the leak is fairly small.

I canít see where the oil is coming from. I have ordered some UV oil dye to hopefully determine the origin of the leak and will post back my findings.

In the meantime and suggestion on where to look would be appreciated. I reused all of the seals etc. when doing the valve inspection. Bike runs great.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-26-2018, 09:17 AM
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Versys 2011

Had to look up the year. Your bike should have been easier to service than my 2015. The most likely place is those half moon area's on the right and left side. One question, did you notice the four sleeves that insert into the gasket for the valve cover mounting bolts and also the four washers,
several have placed the washers on the wrong side of the gasket. I also found that installing the valve cover it was best to have the gasket in the cover, which means you need to guide those half moon rubber parts of the gasket into the engine.I had to view the How To thread to refresh my memory
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Last edited by onewizard; 11-26-2018 at 09:20 AM.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-26-2018, 09:51 AM
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Also when re-installing the rubber cam cover gasket be sure to clean it properly. Alcohol works well to remove any oil.

Pay close attention to the half moon areas of the gasket and where it mates to the head and cover. As Onewizard pointed out these areas tend to be the culprit.

After cleaning, smear a thin layer of RTV to the half moon area of the head then reassemble.

Good luck.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-26-2018, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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Hmm, Thanks for the input ? Gen 2, 2011 model. I did not remove the gasket from the engine, it seemed to be secured at the half moon areas and I did not want to damage it by forcefully trying to remove it. I did clean the gasket as best I could without it being fully removed. Hard to tell but maybe some weeping from the half moon area.

In any event I want to try the uv oil dye, never used it before so curious to see how it works, figure the $8 for dye is cheap before tearing things down and will be good to confirm only one point of leaking. I will post back after installing the dye, hopefully I can take a few pictures showing the illuminated dye from the black light.

This forum is fantastic, really helps weekend mechanics like me! Thank you!
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Last edited by fasteddiecopeman; 11-27-2018 at 01:34 PM.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-26-2018, 11:22 PM
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Another thought is since it's a 2011 bike the gasket could be getting a little hard. Once you disturb it she will never do a proper seal again.

I replaced the one on my 2015 when I adjusted the valves to err on the safe side. Gaskets are not that expensive.

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-27-2018, 05:19 AM
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Here is a completely different source of oil: the airbox-crankcase breather tube.
On my 2010 ninja the airbox seal around the breather tube was cracked due to negligent handling from the garage after a valve check too.
Older machines have more blow-by so higher pressure in crank case makes it worse.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-27-2018, 02:32 PM
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Clean off the engine with a cleaner. Let it dry and then run it to operating temperature. Take a container of talcum powder and sprinkle it on the suspected area of leaks and you will soon see where the problem is.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-29-2018, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack of Heats JoH View Post
Hmm, Thanks for the input ? Gen 2, 2011 model. I did not remove the gasket from the engine, it seemed to be secured at the half moon areas and I did not want to damage it by forcefully trying to remove it. I did clean the gasket as best I could without it being fully removed. Hard to tell but maybe some weeping from the half moon area.

In any event I want to try the uv oil dye, never used it before so curious to see how it works, figure the $8 for dye is cheap before tearing things down and will be good to confirm only one point of leaking. I will post back after installing the dye, hopefully I can take a few pictures showing the illuminated dye from the black light.

This forum is fantastic, really helps weekend mechanics like me! Thank you!
So - DID you find/fix the leak?

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-29-2018, 04:26 PM
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The ZG series Concours and most of those Ninja in-line fours of that era had the same half-moon shapes on the valve cover gasket. I had both Mk1 and Mk2 Concours with adjustable tappets (love 'em, I wish the V had them too). The gasket fits into a channel on the cover and then the cover has to be manoeuvred very carefully back into place, from the left side only, if my leaky memory serves. I never replaced the rubber gasket over 120,000km on each bike.

If re-fitted properly they won't leak. The inverse of that is also true.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-01-2018, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
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Uv oil dye arrived, will install and hope to get a ride in tomorrow. I think there is a good chance the leak is at the half moon area, but the UV dye should confirm that. For sure not at the drain plug or filter.
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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When I got a proper UV light it was pretty easy to spot the oil leak. The leak has been getting progressively worse. It appears to be coming from the top right side of the engine near and at the forward half moon. I will try cleaning off the engine then just run the engine for a short period to better identify the exact location of the leak. But l will need to get to that top gasket in any event.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 05:22 PM
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You already solved the problem: the gasket is not quite aligned. I've seen that on other Kawasaki engines with the same half moon end on the valve cover.

Regardless of the cause, remove the cover, inspect the gasket for damage and act accordingly- replace or reuse.

I also question the use of a UV dye added to engine oil. Sure, the seller will say it's harmless, but who knows?

I think it's overkill when a quick clean of the engine followed by a spritz of talcum powder works wonders (as I previously posted). Talcum (baby) powder $2. How much for the dye and the UV light?

I hope the leak is as easy to solve in your garage as it is on my keyboard
Best of luck and update us!
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
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Smiley,

I like your suggestion with talcum powder. Being a little geekie I wanted to try the UV dye. Total cost about $15 for light and dye, I only used 1/2 the dye so I have enough for another round if I need it, so not too expensive. I donít think there is an issue with the dye as it was only 1/2 ounce of an oily mixture.

As you said I now know where the problem is, will get to it whenI can and post back afterwards.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-05-2018, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
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When I got a proper UV light it was pretty easy to spot the oil leak. The leak has been getting progressively worse. It appears to be coming from the top right side of the engine near and at the forward half moon. I will try cleaning off the engine then just run the engine for a short period to better identify the exact location of the leak. But l will need to get to that top gasket in any event.
I seem to remember having a leak after a "valve-check", caused by NOT having the 'rubber' gasket correctly aligned along the front edge of the 'valve-cover' [IN the "groove" in the cover], so I tend to be extra careful when installing it.

Ed
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-05-2018, 08:49 PM
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I seem to remember having a leak after a "valve-check", caused by NOT having the 'rubber' gasket correctly aligned along the front edge of the 'valve-cover' [IN the "groove" in the cover], so I tend to be extra careful when installing it.
They have a similar style on the c-10 Connies. I finally replaced mine at 165k miles as the old one was getting cracked and stiff.

That being said, I keep a new gasket on hand just in case I mess it up when re-installing.

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And most of Canada too, eh?
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
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I was able to remove the valve cover without disconnecting the throttle cable, followed tips on this thread and reinstalled everything, should be good to go.

It took me forever to get the ring hose clamp for the breather box and the 2 small ring clamps o the tank overflow tubes back on the right place. Couldn’t reach then with my hands, fingers and pliers kept slipping off. Is there a specific tool you use to make this easier?
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 02:09 PM
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Can't say, as I have no memory of having problems w/ them.

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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 07:59 PM
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I was able to remove the valve cover without disconnecting the throttle cable, followed tips on this thread and reinstalled everything, should be good to go.

It took me forever to get the ring hose clamp for the breather box and the 2 small ring clamps o the tank overflow tubes back on the right place. Couldnít reach then with my hands, fingers and pliers kept slipping off. Is there a specific tool you use to make this easier?
These can help:



https://www.harborfreight.com/2-Pc-2...ers-61587.html
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And most of Canada too, eh?
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