Voltage Indicator Question? - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-28-2018, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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Well I just installed OneWizard's volt meter and I am getting odd readings. When I just turn on the ignition it does its search and the line of LEDs goes to 100 percent and the bottom green light comes on. When I start the engine, the LED line does its search to 90% and keeps searching. The bottom green light never comes on. Revving the engine has no effect. It just keeps blinking green over the LED line. Kind of maddening.
The VOM across the battery terminals says:
12.85 volts with ignition off
12.25 volts with ignition on
14.97 to 15 volts with motor running.
Anybody got any ideas as to what might be happening?
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-28-2018, 06:21 PM
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Neat Little Voltmeter

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-28-2018, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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I am not getting any reds or yellows at the same time. When riding there are times that it will stop scanning and present a row of green lights. But changes of rpm will cause it to start scanning again. There are times when I start the engine that the gauge will stay constant, but as soon as I increase the rpm, it will start scanning again. The thing that concerns me is that when the engine is running I seldom get a lower green light. But I am not getting a red or yellow either. So basically I have no idea of what the gauge is telling me and the instructions are pretty vague.
I presuming that with the engine producing 15 volt is that the guage is trying to determine if it is a 12 or 24 volt system.

Randy
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-29-2018, 09:27 AM
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I am not getting any reds or yellows at the same time. When riding there are times that it will stop scanning and present a row of green lights. But changes of rpm will cause it to start scanning again. There are times when I start the engine that the gauge will stay constant, but as soon as I increase the rpm, it will start scanning again. The thing that concerns me is that when the engine is running I seldom get a lower green light. But I am not getting a red or yellow either. So basically I have no idea of what the gauge is telling me and the instructions are pretty vague.
I presuming that with the engine producing 15 volt is that the guage is trying to determine if it is a 12 or 24 volt system.

Randy
If yours is the same as my photo, you have a defective one or a loose connection, bad ground.The bottom green is on even when the motor is off, i.e. if I stall it with the headlight on, eventually I will drop below 12 volts, at that point it goes off. Like I said, check your wiring, the wire on that is around 28 to 30 gauge, I soldered the ends to get more surface area.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-29-2018, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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I get a bottom green when the engine is off, but not when it is running. When running I get no bottom light at all.

What did you connect your wires to? I connected the red to a red on the left side small headlight. I could not get to the red ignition. I connected the black to the frame. Shouldn't that work?



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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-29-2018, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randyjaco View Post
Well I just installed OneWizard's volt meter and I am getting odd readings. When I just turn on the ignition it does its search and the line of LEDs goes to 100 percent and the bottom green light comes on. When I start the engine, the LED line does its search to 90% and keeps searching. The bottom green light never comes on. Revving the engine has no effect. It just keeps blinking green over the LED line. Kind of maddening.
The VOM across the battery terminals says:
12.85 volts with ignition off
12.25 volts with ignition on
14.97 to 15 volts with motor running.
Anybody got any ideas as to what might be happening?

Charging voltage is much more stable with my Compufire series type R/R. It varied by over 4 times as much and was also a bit excessive with stock shunt R/R at 14.65V~14.90V. It's now always between 14.38V and 14.44V (14.44V idle) with the Compufire.

Stator cover which used to be at 205F~219F with stock R/R, is now at 184F~187F with Compufire, while left cylinder head is at 197F~204F in the same ambient temperature... Stator cover temperature is now more stable at about 26F cooler on average, and up to about 32F cooler.

With stock shunt R/R, stator is always operating at maximum possible output by shunting all unused current. Load reduction with series type R/R is in fact quite significant.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-03-2018, 08:34 PM
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I have a voltmeter like OneWizard......Heres a video of it working......



Heres a re-do video of the section stalling the engine that was left out of original video..





P1010755 by weljo2001, on Flickr

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-02-2018, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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Voltage Indicator Question?

I have one of those Chinese multiple LED voltage indicators. Today I went on a 6 hour ride. Everything was going fine. Then about 30 minutes from home, I looked down. and saw a single green LED was flashing. The bottom LED was off. I headed home fast as I could. I stopped at a traffic signal and the fan came on. The single green LED switched to RED. . The light changed and I took off. The LED went back to green.After about 10 minutes a second green LED started on to flash. Long story short, by the time I got home things were back to normal. This is the second time in six months that this has occured. Anybody have any idea what may be going on?

Randy

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-02-2018, 10:22 PM
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How old is your battery, and what has it been through during its service life so far? What mileage are you at, and are you still on original stator and shunt type regulator/rectifier?
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-03-2018, 06:37 AM Thread Starter
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The battery I was told, is about a year old. Everything else electrical is probably original stock. When I got the bike it had 8K miles on it. it now has about 15K.

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Last edited by Randyjaco; 11-03-2018 at 06:39 AM.
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-03-2018, 07:12 AM
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That's the reason why I went with a digital voltmeter; no guessing.
They are literally a few dollars and are fairly precise, like 1% error or better.
If it told you 14.4V max and 13.2V at idle, it would all be fine.
Currently you don't know anything and you panic.

You should take a real multimeter and compare the readout at various voltages, to take notes of which voltage range is indicated by the leds.
Since you must probably test voltages in the 10-15V range, you will need a way to vary a voltage output from a source (I like using two 9V batteries connected in series for a quick 18V source)

If you don't have a variable resistance, you can split a full length wood pencil lengthwise to expose the graphite, plug both ends to the battery and slide the probe on the graphite (while both the led gauge and the multimeter are plugged to the same probe of course). Have fun!
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-03-2018, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randyjaco View Post
I have one of those Chinese multiple LED voltage indicators. Today I went on a 6 hour ride. Everything was going fine. Then about 30 minutes from home, I looked down. and saw a single green LED was flashing. The bottom LED was off. I headed home fast as I could. I stopped at a traffic signal and the fan came on. The single green LED switched to RED. . The light changed and I took off. The LED went back to green.After about 10 minutes a second green LED started on to flash. Long story short, by the time I got home things were back to normal. This is the second time in six months that this has occured. Anybody have any idea what may be going on?

Randy

2008 V650
First , have your battery load tested.
You had this problem before, are you certain all your connections are sound on the display.
Have you checked your engine ground and frame ground, also battery connections.
One more thing, pull apart the 3 phase plug from the stator , have a close look, a bad connection on this plug has happened to others. Last you should also check the 3 phase volts using my stator test method if all the above turn up negative.

Two posts with photos have been moved here https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...ph-others.html this member had a problem previously , unresolved , I feel I side tracked this thread, however further discussion will be in that thread related to monitoring voltage.

Last edited by onewizard; 11-04-2018 at 08:03 AM.
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-03-2018, 12:30 PM
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no need to bother with a separate source of DC
It would be pretty tedious to find all the thresholds for each led (regardless of how accurate they are), even with a 0.5V error with only the throttle to control voltage.

I meant that doing these measurements is easier done quietly on a table in a warm house.

To OP, if you ever go with numbers display, go with the green leds, they are more visible in daylight than red, blue or white.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-03-2018, 01:05 PM
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As a point of interest, last week my volt meter (similar to the meter of @onewizard) began reading lower than normal, the top green LED wasn't illuminating like it usually did. When I got home and did some testing and inspecting, I ultimately found that the 3 white wires from the stator had been mis-routed where they exit the stator cover, by the front sprocket. By me, when I changed the chain and sprockets 4 months and 9000 km ago, and I had been cleaning the area.

Anyway, the protective sleeve over the wires had been slid up to the connector at the top, exposing the wires where they exit the stator cover. The wires had been rubbing against the edge of the stator cover until the insulation was worn, and had eventually been able to short 1 of the wires to the cover (grounding it). This had caused the voltage drop I'd noticed. A degreasing, some liquid electrical tape to seal wth insulation, electrical tape for added protection, and proper positioning of the protective sleeve resolved the issue.

Diagnosis and repair time : under 2 hrs.
Total cost : inexpensive volt meter, sundry supplies, my time.
Productivity / work / riding time lost : none.

An inexpensive volt meter saved me from bigger problems and expense. Performing a close visual inspection with a bright light can be revealing. Pay attention to the correct routing of wires!

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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-03-2018, 02:19 PM
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...Similar to "Heads Up"

I have one of these on my '08 (along w/ a digital read-out that I bought AFTER the ABOVE). It is VERY hard to read in ANY amount of daylight, which is why I supplemented it w/ the digital read-out.

I have the "Heads Up" LED on my '15, and IMHO - it is FAR SUPERIOR in visibility to EITHER one on my '08.
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-03-2018, 02:58 PM
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Staring at a digital display needs two actions, first a visual, and second a interpretation of the value read, this could lead to paranoia setting in.
Nah... No different than reading my speed, trip meter, clock or road signs.
Besides how often do you need to look at it, really; maybe once or twice per hour..

Fast to learn and with such precision it can actually tell when I have a headlight burned.
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-03-2018, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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I guess it is time to pull out the meters. I hope I can get some confirming readings. I spent the day today at the Lone Star Rally. Everything was normal. No Problems. I am guessing that it is a regulator problem. I happen to have a new Polaris sitting on the bench.I was hoping to wait until January to do the install.

Thanks for all the responses

Randy
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-04-2018, 02:39 PM
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I have one of these on my '08 (along w/ a digital read-out that I bought AFTER the ABOVE). It is VERY hard to read in ANY amount of daylight, which is why I supplemented it w/ the digital read-out....
I took my camera w/ me on an early-morning ride today, and got shots of the two LED indicators to illustrate my point:

Pic 1 is in the "dark" - note how easily BOTH displays can be read (one left, one right) [taken at 0635]



now compare them w/ sunlight coming onto them (note the tach to confirm that the engine IS running) [taken just past 0900]

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File Type: jpg IMG_1495copy.jpg (263.2 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1496copy.jpg (339.3 KB, 4 views)

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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-04-2018, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
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My meter has never worked as others have described. I don't think I have ever seen a yellow light? I mostly get greens and in panic moments, red. When I turn on the ignition but not the engine, I get a full row of greens on top and a single green on the bottom. When I crank the engine I generally get a bottom green and the top line starts strobing left to right. First one green, then two, then 3 until the top line is all strobing green. Once all green lights are on, the strobing will stop and everything is solid green. That is how it has operated from the get go.

That brings on a question. I have a 0 - 24 volt DC power supply.I can adjust both the voltage and amperage. I was wondering if I could hook it up directly to the Chinese meter to map out the colors vs actual voltage supplied? Would that work or do I have to have actual stator generating alternating 3 phase current?

Randy

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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-05-2018, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randyjaco View Post
My meter has never worked as others have described. I don't think I have ever seen a yellow light? I mostly get greens and in panic moments, red. When I turn on the ignition but not the engine, I get a full row of greens on top and a single green on the bottom. When I crank the engine I generally get a bottom green and the top line starts strobing left to right. First one green, then two, then 3 until the top line is all strobing green. Once all green lights are on, the strobing will stop and everything is solid green. That is how it has operated from the get go.

That brings on a question. I have a 0 - 24 volt DC power supply.I can adjust both the voltage and amperage. I was wondering if I could hook it up directly to the Chinese meter to map out the colors vs actual voltage supplied? Would that work or do I have to have actual stator generating alternating 3 phase current?

Randy
The short answer is that you could. The documentation that came with the meter should have the operation and values for each light. You should compare the values you get to the documentation, use a VOM not just the value that the power supply gives you. If you are not sure it is good replace it.

On my heads up the amber is a very narrow voltage so I do not see it for very long. At a stop light it will go from green to red or flashing red when the fan comes on. I am hooked up to the city light wiring so I could have some voltage drop there. With just a little increase of RPM and it turns back green.

You have been given a very good test for your stator and I recommend that you do it. Then you will know for sure that your stator is good. You do not need to have a $200.00 meter. My cheap H/F meter works.

Jeff

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