soooooo..... 10 wt at 43mm? has anyone that has actually changed their fork oil got a comment? thanks.
Recently did this. Yes, 10W, actually the viscosity at 40C is the important number but 10W will get you very close to that. Do replace both fork seals and dust covers.
You WILL need
1) a fork seal driver or make a tool to do this
2) a fork spring holder or make one out of a plate of steel. I posted the design for one on here.
3) a vise plus vise protectors so as not to leave any tool marks on the forks
4) a rear and front pit stand that lifts by the triple tree
5) way to measure and get fork oil level precisely set like a syringe obtained from a pharmacy
Be sure to watch a few HOW TO videos on YouTube first. Found these very helpful. In short it is not hard and will only take an evening but you need certain specialty tools or more likely need to make them. For instance you cannot remove the end cap without a spring holder. I made one for about a dollar out of a sheet of plate steel. You will also need fork seal drivers to not damage the new fork seals installing them.
I took my bike to a DIY motorcycle shop that had all the specialty tools other than the spring holder.
If your fork seal blew it is likely they did not get the air gap at the top of the fork correct during the last fork oil change. It is very important to get this correct as it is your bump stop.
You can safely substitute Amsoil Red Signature Series synthetic transmission fluid for the Showa SS8 fork oil which is OEM in the Versys as it has the same viscosity at 40C (36.8cST/@40C) however transmission fluid viscosity varies widely by type and brand so I would not use just any transmission fluid in place of 10W fork oil. As a safe bet use 10W fork oil unless you have the full specs and can look up the viscosity. A change in viscosity means a change in damping which can make things either harsh or under damped.