9AH Battery VS 10AH Battery - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-23-2018, 06:19 AM Thread Starter
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9AH Battery VS 10AH Battery

What are the downsides to using a 9AH 12V battery instead of the OEM 10AH 12V battery with the Versys 650 (2016)? Out here in India, we do not have access to a 12V 10AH battery, and imported with duty costs a bomb.

The 9AH AGM is available aplenty.

Any advice?
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post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-23-2018, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by red liner View Post
What are the downsides to using a 9AH 12V battery instead of the OEM 10AH 12V battery with the Versys 650 (2016)? Out here in India, we do not have access to a 12V 10AH battery, and imported with duty costs a bomb.

The 9AH AGM is available aplenty.

Any advice?
I am running the 9AH amaron battery for a while now, no issues as such. I even have a pair of aux leds which run flawlessly with both the main headlights on. I don't use heated grips or anything so its fine so far. I also have a battery tender to keep the battery topped off when im not riding.
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post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-23-2018, 08:19 AM
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The AH is not a directly important number. A larger number does imply a "stronger" battery, in that it will take longer to run down, but under normal circumstances you should not be running your battery down.

As long as it is a 12v battery designed for motorcycle use, it won't harm your Versys regardless of the AH rating.

Normally the battery only supplies power to start the engine. After that, the alternator provides all the electricity for the bike, including recharging the battery. If you left the key turned ON but the engine not running, the battery would eventually run down. The 10AH battery would take a little bit longer to run down than a 9AH battery.

The higher AH number may be better under a few circumstances. Primarily if you live in a very cold climate. That doesn't seem likely for you in India! Other circumstances would be unusual, like many engine starts for very short trips (package delivery) so that the battery can't recharge fully each time the engine is running, or if you're powering something from the battery when the engine isn't running.

A reputable brand of battery at 9AH won't hurt your Versys and should work fine for you.
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post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-23-2018, 10:48 AM
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I agree with a lot of what members are saying-due to where you live- temp wise- and if you do not run a lot of electrical add on your fine with that 9amp battery-but just for clarification the bike does not run off the alternator it runs off the battery and the alternator replaces current used-why you ask because the ecu and injectors(lights don't care) need a pure DC signal the alternator does not provide that- I'm sure Kawasaki uses a bridge rectifier like most do that produces a pulse wave not a pure flat sine wave the battery is a pure flat DC wave-so that's it--fun fact your lights- TV etc in your house blink but your eyes can't pick it up they blink 60 times a second that why it's called 60 cycle-again not to beat my chest but just so you know where all this is coming from after I left working on motorcycles I ran a small electronics company-it was invention- product- patent I had a 5 year contract after that it peaked my interest in electronics so at 38 years old I went back to school a got a degree in industrial electronics and opened my own company had a state license(not easy to get) to work on anything that produced a signal(everything) ran it for ten years until I had enough and retired at 50 years old lots of money was made in those ten years- so now you know the as they say the rest of the story-so motorcycles 54 years electronics 37 years that what I know
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post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-23-2018, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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I agree with a lot of what members are saying-due to where you live- temp wise- and if you do not run a lot of electrical add on your fine with that 9amp battery-but just for clarification the bike does not run off the alternator it runs off the battery and the alternator replaces current used-why you ask because the ecu and injectors(lights don't care) need a pure DC signal the alternator does not provide that- I'm sure Kawasaki uses a bridge rectifier
Okay. I always thought the battery was ONLY meant to start the bike, and after that the alternator takes over to power all the electricals on the bike connected direct to the battery VIA the battery. Anything which is plugged straight to the OEM relay set up under the hood, will run off the alternator. Am I okay with my base understanding?

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Originally Posted by Fly-Sig View Post

A reputable brand of battery at 9AH won't hurt your Versys and should work fine for you.
Super, thank you for this.

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Originally Posted by XenMoto View Post
I am running the 9AH amaron battery for a while now, no issues as such. I even have a pair of aux leds which run flawlessly with both the main headlights on. I don't use heated grips or anything so its fine so far. I also have a battery tender to keep the battery topped off when im not riding.
Xen, thank you for this too. Helps to have someone local here who understands our 3rd world troubles! Will go out and fetch the Amaron VRLA AGM 9AH battery. Will just need to check if it fits into the battery bay (should I suppose).
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post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-23-2018, 11:58 AM
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...Will go out and fetch the Amaron VRLA AGM 9AH battery. Will just need to check if it fits into the battery bay (should I suppose).
I suggest that you MEASURE your battery first, and bring those measurements AND a tape-measure w/ you when you go to get the new battery.


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post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 01:07 PM
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I just replaced my battery yesterday after 4 years so as the clerk said it does not owe me anything. It would start the bike but often went dead after inflating my tires and could barely turn over the engine. It failed a load test. The new battery fires up the engine with just a touch of the starter button where as the old battery required a long press of the same button to start.

If you live in a city I would seek out a commercial battery supplier as they are always cheaper than a dealer or store and have a vast selection of lead acid batteries for every application from computer power supplies to large diesel trucks to boats.

I would be inclined to look for a battery that has specifications as high or higher than stock. No one knows for sure what will happen until you try it but my guess a lower capacity battery will act like my failing battery above and just barely crank over the bike.

In universal sizing, the Versys 650 takes a TX-12 battery.

Last edited by twowheels; 04-24-2018 at 01:19 PM.
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post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 10:08 PM
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just for clarification the bike does not run off the alternator it runs off the battery and the alternator replaces current used-why you ask because the ecu and injectors(lights don't care) need a pure DC signal the alternator does not provide that- I'm sure Kawasaki uses a bridge rectifier like most do that produces a pulse wave not a pure flat sine wave the battery is a pure flat DC wave-so that's itw
Sorry, doesn't work that way.

The alternator would be connected to the battery via some charging electronics or perhaps a simple rectifier/regulator. Idk what the waveform looks like for the V650 system in terms of how clean it is, but in any case the output of the charging system is attached to the + and - terminals of the battery. Meanwhile those same terminals are connected to the hot battery bus and run into the power distribution system.

The battery in this circuit is effectively a very large capacitor. It will smooooth the voltage waveform very effectively to DC, soaking up extra electrons from the alternator/charger when the voltage goes up, and providing extra electrons when the voltage is drooping (from too much demand for the alternator to supply it at full voltage).

The battery cannot be both supplying current (discharging) and simultaneously accepting current (charging). After engine start the battery is slightly depleted and will charge. The alternator must provide enough current at operating voltage to both recharge the battery and run all the systems on the bike. Once the battery is charged up, the alternator provides current to run the bike systems, and the battery in a perfect world does nothing but in the real world smooths the voltage waveform as a capacitor.
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post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-25-2018, 02:20 AM
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After starting duty the battery is on stand-by mode most of the time.




The battery’s primary job is to start the motorcycle and to supply any extra current the bike requires when the alternator output is lower than the current draw. This normally only happens at low rpm, when electrical demand is high and alternator output low, as it might be when stuck in slow traffic or cruising at low speed. Lots of high-draw electrical accessories exacerbate the situation and in a worst case may cause the battery voltage to dip below the point where it can restart the bike. The easiest way to avoid problems here is to monitor the battery’s charge via the OEM charge indicator, a formerly standard accessory that seems to be getting rarer all the time, or by installing an aftermarket charging system monitor, which is something I heartily recommend if you’re running a Christmas tree’s worth of electrical accessories.
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Last edited by Fastoman; 04-25-2018 at 02:23 AM. Reason: adding article.
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post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-25-2018, 08:03 AM
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Excellent Posts On Battery AH

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...gs-2015-a.html

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1116674-post4.html

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ut-stator.html
I will say that originally I looked at adding a capacitor, as the battery can only accept a charge at a certain rate, which BTW is important to note, if you left something on your bike turned on, that is you made a mistake adding a accessory, you are out in the boondocks and someone boosts you, your stator will put out roughly 11 amp in excess of what you need to run the bike, as you should know a AGM battery can take abuse like this, however expect this action to affect the long term life of the battery, if this should ever happen to you and the opportunity is such that you are still at home, put the battery on a 1 amp charger and correct your wiring.
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post #11 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-25-2018, 09:52 AM
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Sorry, doesn't work that way.

The alternator would be connected to the battery via some charging electronics or perhaps a simple rectifier/regulator. Idk what the waveform looks like for the V650 system in terms of how clean it is, but in any case the output of the charging system is attached to the + and - terminals of the battery. Meanwhile those same terminals are connected to the hot battery bus and run into the power distribution system.

The battery in this circuit is effectively a very large capacitor. It will smooooth the voltage waveform very effectively to DC, soaking up extra electrons from the alternator/charger when the voltage goes up, and providing extra electrons when the voltage is drooping (from too much demand for the alternator to supply it at full voltage).

The battery cannot be both supplying current (discharging) and simultaneously accepting current (charging). After engine start the battery is slightly depleted and will charge. The alternator must provide enough current at operating voltage to both recharge the battery and run all the systems on the bike. Once the battery is charged up, the alternator provides current to run the bike systems, and the battery in a perfect world does nothing but in the real world smooths the voltage waveform as a capacitor.
So you say I'm wrong- but in your own words you say -quote-in the real world smooth's the voltage wavefom and that is a correct statement and what runs the bike-the smooth waveform ecu will not function on a pluse and what products that waveform the battery ergo bike runs off the battery--you also say the battery can not be both supplying current and accepting current-well to produce that waveform the pluse current from the charging system enters the through the positive side(because we do know that electrons flow positive to negative) go through the battery and out the negative side so the battery is simultaneously discharging and charging depending on the current load-and for me this topic is closed-can't make it any clearer

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post #12 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-26-2018, 08:21 AM
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So you say I'm wrong- but in your own words you say -quote-in the real world smooth's the voltage wavefom and that is a correct statement and what runs the bike-the smooth waveform ecu will not function on a pluse and what products that waveform the battery ergo bike runs off the battery--you also say the battery can not be both supplying current and accepting current-well to produce that waveform the pluse current from the charging system enters the through the positive side(because we do know that electrons flow positive to negative) go through the battery and out the negative side so the battery is simultaneously discharging and charging depending on the current load-and for me this topic is closed-can't make it any clearer
Hey I don't want to be argumentative about this. I took your statement to be that the battery is supplying the juice to run the bike, and the alternator doesn't do anything more than charge the battery. But in fact the alternator is providing all of the electrical energy when the bike is running.

Yes the battery is necessary because the alternator rectifier circuit is constructed crudely, so the battery becomes a yuuuge capacitor to smooth out the voltage. The battery will soak up electrons when necessary, and will provide electrons when necessary, but it won't do both at the same time.

I think I remember that electrons flow from negative to positive. That was somewhere back in my college and grad school days in Electrical Engineering. Like I said I don't want to be argumentative on this forum, just trying to avoid misunderstandings.

eta: I used to be annoying in systems ground school, too, about the way things really work. The material provided to pilots is usually suggestive of how the system works, but is not technically accurate at all. Instructors don't usually dig any deeper themselves, so they can't answer questions. Don't look too closely at the electrical system or hydraulics diagrams! The real takeaway is usually "Red light BAD. Green light GOOD." Nowadays I just sit quietly sipping coffee when they send me to class.

Last edited by Fly-Sig; 04-26-2018 at 08:47 AM.
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post #13 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-26-2018, 10:27 AM
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One of the biggest problems-to me- with writing on the internet is trying to get your thoughts from your head to paper so it makes sense- after rereading everything I think we are on the same page just a few words are shifted around-and I don't want to argue either and yes back in the day 60's I was taught the same thing and all was good-silly old brit's with their reversed systems-it wasn't until I went back to school in 1988 this reversed thinking thing came up and I'm like wait a dam minute everything I was taught was wrong this changes every thing or does it- nope business as usual you just move your finger in a different direction on paper- if no one tells it does a light blub know or care which way current is flowing it still works- the brit's had it right all a long-who knew-now lets break out our zener diodes and toast them-long live Lucas
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post #14 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-26-2018, 12:24 PM
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...The material provided to pilots is usually suggestive of how the system works, but is not technically accurate at all. Instructors don't usually dig any deeper themselves, so they can't answer questions. Don't look too closely at the electrical system or hydraulics diagrams! The real takeaway is usually "Red light BAD. Green light GOOD." Nowadays I just sit quietly sipping coffee when they send me to class.
When I started in aviation we were trained to know EVERYTHING about each system, but at the end (of MY career) they just instructed us in how to USE the system.

PROBABLY a better way....
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post #15 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-26-2018, 02:59 PM
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When I started in aviation we were trained to know EVERYTHING about each system, but at the end (of MY career) they just instructed us in how to USE the system.

PROBABLY a better way....
Yeah they used to want us to be able to build the airplane. My first checkride as a new hire with an airline was under that philosophy, but I lucked out. One of my siblings has epilepsy, and so I am aware that something which flashes at 60 per minute can trigger a seizure. In the systems book it mentioned the strobes flash at 50 per minute, which naturally was something I noticed because of my sibling.

At the beginning of the oral the check airman starts leafing through the book to find a question. "Let's see, how many flashes per minute on the wingtip strobes?", he asks. I tell him "Fifty". No joke, he closed the book and said if I knew that answer there was no need to ask me any more systems questions!
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post #16 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-27-2018, 01:33 PM
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Yeah they used to want us to be able to build the airplane....
A friend was getting 'checked-out' on DC-8s back in the '60s. The check-pilot asked what happens when you move the start-switch on the overhead panel (wanting to hear ALL the things like... 28v DC goes to... etc, etc.) so he said "It goes SCREE!" (the sound of the high pressure air hitting the starter...!)

BRILLIANT answer BTW!

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post #17 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-05-2019, 11:25 PM Thread Starter
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Follow on question. The 9ah battery has a 120cca vs the stock 180cca. Problem?
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post #18 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 11:36 AM
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What are the downsides to using a 9AH 12V battery instead of the OEM 10AH 12V battery with the Versys 650 (2016)? Out here in India, we do not have access to a 12V 10AH battery, and imported with duty costs a bomb.
I also have an electric bike,AH is the rating system they use for capacity which means distance on a charge basically. How long you can go a charge. They also use Watt hours,Kilowatt hours. So maybe your batteries over there have an AH rating as they double as power packs for electric mobility scooters and stuff like that.Cant see any difference in a motorcycle battery since the system is charging when the bike is running.If you were draining the bike power with the motor not running, like if the bike wouldnt start and you kept turning it over the 10 AH would last longer than a 9AH. Since its a capacity rating, a 9AH could be physically smaller with a lead-acid battery.
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post #19 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 12:05 PM
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...In universal sizing, the Versys 650 takes a TX-12 battery.
I would ALSO suggest that you take care that your NEW battery has the + and - terminals in the same area (AND SIDE) as the OEM battery does.

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post #20 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 07:01 PM
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Follow on question. The 9ah battery has a 120cca vs the stock 180cca. Problem?
The 9 AH is key, and AGM Yuasa is key, the cold cranking amps higher output has more plates and they are thinner, and slightly more lead. Since our starter requires much less , no advantage of paying more or getting a higher cranking amp battery. (AH is 9 amps for 1 hour at 12 volts DC) or 108 watts for one hour.
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