warped disks x3 pairs - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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warped disks x3 pairs

Hi all
Had my V for 3 years and each year managed 10k miles
I had to claim 3 sets of front disks on warranty so far and now its run out I dont really want to buy them myself.
Am I just getting through them due to high mileage or have others had similar wear issues?
Cheers
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 01:49 PM
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26k on mine and no rotor issues. Have they looked at your forks to make sure they are straight? Something is wrong if you are going through them that fast.
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 02:24 PM
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+1 what Kenr74 said.

My originals are getting a bit thin but no warpage with third set of brakepads and I don't baby her.

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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minirollsrule View Post
Hi all
Had my V for 3 years and each year managed 10k miles
I had to claim 3 sets of front disks on warranty so far and now its run out I dont really want to buy them myself.
Am I just getting through them due to high mileage or have others had similar wear issues?
Cheers
I've got 37,000 miles on my '08, ORIGINAL discs AND pads. Maybe I ride a bit easier than others...?

And my KLR had 77,000 kms when I sold it, ORIGINAL discs, 2nd or 3rd set of pads, SS front brake line.

Ed
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 06:07 PM
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21000 on mine (which is for sale) and still have plenty of pad and original rotors.
I use lots of engine braking with my car and bike....and when i am lost in the twisties of the Leelanau peninsula in Michigan's northern lower peninsula...I can go 25 miles without touching the brakes.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minirollsrule View Post
Hi all
Had my V for 3 years and each year managed 10k miles
I had to claim 3 sets of front disks on warranty so far and now its run out I dont really want to buy them myself.
Am I just getting through them due to high mileage or have others had similar wear issues?
Cheers
When they change the discs do they change the pads too? Just wondering because there's a "bedding in" process for new pads. You have to go easy on them for awhile or they can become glazed.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 06:25 PM
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Not saying this is or is not the cause. I warped the front rotor on my Buell by heating the rotor up and at a stop holding the brake on. It caused some of the pad material to stick to the rotor and that caused a hot spot and the start of the warp. From then on the more I used the brake the worse it got.

I was told this was likely the cause by the shop that replaced that warped rotor, under warranty thankfully! They seemed on the up & up to me as said to hold the bike with the rear brake not the front as the rear heats up a lot less.

Anyway sorry you're having problems and hope you can get it sorted out soon.

Or was that look THEN leap?
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 09:32 PM
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This bike has pretty crappy front brakes, no matter how you stack it..Just way to much lever travel compared t most ANY other motorcycle..

I have been shimming my brake pads and along with a radial master and I think the shims help the most..

Seems the pistons in the front calipers are to short, then need to be longer, so shims seem to be making a difference.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-28-2012, 06:34 AM
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I suspect the vibration was actually irregular brake material transfer, caused by holding the brake when the disk is hot and the bike stationary, or there is something seriously wrong with your bike.

Did you measure the disks, were they really out of round?
Did you replace the pads as you changed disks?
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-28-2012, 06:35 AM Thread Starter
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cheers for the comments guys and thanks to invader for the links (...we brits dont call them rotors hence not finding the threads)

Each time iv had a service, brakes always get a good clean and re-grease so i really dont think thats the issue here.

Also the disks "rotors" have been replaced 3 times so i think its more serious than that, but i cant think of anything that would cause this other than the forks being set up differently. And im pretty sure they are fine cos the bike runs true no handed (not a fool proof test but as anyone whos tried it on a squiff bicycle will tell you its hard)

On the useage front: yeah i was told not to hold onto the front brakes at lights after a heavy stop cos it might cause warping, but i dont ride hard, i ride quickly but i use mostly engine braking to slow for junctions etc to try and preserve the disks

I guess im just having a moan that ill have to replace them one day out of my own pocket which will not be fun. maybe its worth completely upgrading the braking system while im at it as some people think the brakes are a bit of a soft point for the V
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-28-2012, 08:09 AM
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Feels weird to hear so 3 rotors warped in such a short time.

Warped disc feels like pulsating vibs when braking. Probably caused by localized heat spots on the rotor. doubt is the brake pad material. Maybe an rotor alignment issue.

Does your front wheel rotate freely and smoothly? Try removing the brake calipers and spin the wheel. See if the wheel round smoothly.

Check the brake caliper pistons move in and out freely and don't bind.

Check the rotors are tighten to the correct torque.

Remember when fixing back the front wheel to bounce the front before tightening. Had a bent front axle.
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-28-2012, 11:09 AM
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I would not put new rotors (discs) on the same wheel after having three sets go bad. Can you pick up a used front wheel from an ER-6 that has the discs still on it? Probably less costly than ordering new stock discs, not to mention upgrading the braking system.
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-28-2012, 11:40 AM
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Aren't floating rotors supposed to prevent warping? Have you checked those round things that connect the rotor to the hub and make sure they aren't seized?
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-28-2012, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoTacoCombo View Post
Aren't floating rotors supposed to prevent warping? Have you checked those round things that connect the rotor to the hub and make sure they aren't seized?
A+ on this. I had what I thought were warped front rotors (pulsating when applying the front brakes) until the members here alerted me to the seized rotor bushings/pins issue. So I cleaned and lubed the bushings for both front rotors and the problem solved. It's happened twice so far, and both times was fixed by cleaning and lubing the bushings.
It worth trying before you spend the money on new rotors.

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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-01-2012, 09:06 AM
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A+ on this. I had what I thought were warped front rotors (pulsating when applying the front brakes) until the members here alerted me to the seized rotor bushings/pins issue. So I cleaned and lubed the bushings for both front rotors and the problem solved. It's happened twice so far, and both times was fixed by cleaning and lubing the bushings.
It worth trying before you spend the money on new rotors.
I am getting serious pulsing now at low speeds with only 6100 miles on the bike. How did you clean and lube your bushings?

Last edited by toofer; 10-01-2012 at 10:35 AM.
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-01-2012, 12:05 PM
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I am getting serious pulsing now at low speeds with only 6100 miles on the bike. How did you clean and lube your bushings?
I put a bolt through the center of the bushing and nutted it on the other side, so you are in fact clamping the bushing between the head of the bolt and the nut. Washers help too. Then spray some brake clean into the gap between the rotorand the hub, and using a wench, work the bolt (and clamped bushing) back and forth. Repeat a few times to work the cleaner around the entire bushing.

After it's clean, repeat the process with a good graphite type lubricant. I used a product called 50-5 from Castle Products.

It takes a while to do, but the results are worth it.

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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-01-2012, 12:48 PM
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I put a bolt through the center of the bushing and nutted it on the other side, so you are in fact clamping the bushing between the head of the bolt and the nut. Washers help too. Then spray some brake clean into the gap between the rotorand the hub, and using a wench, work the bolt (and clamped bushing) back and forth. Repeat a few times to work the cleaner around the entire bushing.

After it's clean, repeat the process with a good graphite type lubricant. I used a product called 50-5 from Castle Products.

It takes a while to do, but the results are worth it.

Thanks for the detail... I need to do this as I almost dropped the bike at a red light yesterday coming to a slow stop. The wheel just grabbed, the forks dipped, and I was off balance. Managed to keep it up, though. But it is much worse now than it was last week.
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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-07-2012, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by minirollsrule View Post
Hi all
Had my V for 3 years and each year managed 10k miles
I had to claim 3 sets of front disks on warranty so far and now its run out I dont really want to buy them myself.
Am I just getting through them due to high mileage or have others had similar wear issues?
Cheers

So, if I understand you correctly, warped rotors are covered under warranty? I have the 5 year unlimited mileage warranty. My 2 1/2 year old '09 with about 35,000 miles on it has a slightly warped rear rotor. It's been your experience that I would be able to take it down to my local dealer and have it replaced under warranty?

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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-07-2012, 06:52 PM
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If that local dealer is in England, than apparently so!
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