Lovely, well-designed site. Most of the information is actually true, too! But the vast majority of consumers will never see ANY of these problems with what passes for regular use.
Remember the old "Slick 50" ads? You could treat your engine, drain the oil, then go for a drive? Great - but who actually ever needed that kind of protection?
That site spends a lot of time trying to convince you of the hazards of ethanol-containing fuels - that are only apparent in severe service, long storage, ultra-high humidity atmospheres, or with equipment not designed for service in engines that were designed for use in a regulatory environment that allows - or even requires - the use of oxygenates in fuels. In some regions, since the 1980's.
Plus... they sell test kits and additives designed to identify, then mitigate most of these "problems..." If someone has their hand out for your wallet, be careful of scare tactics...
I get a kick out of their recommendation to remove the evil ethanol, then adjust the octane in the fuel with an "octane booster."
Let me tell ya - the ONLY octane-increasing additive that you - the average consumer - can safely buy and use is.... wait for it... an Alcohol! Ethanol, Methanol, and Isopropyl alcohol are the most common chemicals in over-the-counter octane boosters. All the rest of the ingredients do something else. Often nothing good or required.
You can't buy anything else without a very special license, because all the rest of the octane boosters are seriously toxic. As in kill-ya-next week after exposure today toxic. Contact, inhaled, looked-at the wrong way, you name it. Containment-suit toxic. Like lead, ferinstance - the additive is called Tetra-ethyl lead. Most have NO IDEA how toxic that stuff is, and the extreme
handling precautions required to use this stuff safely at a refinery or lab.
So - first that site tells ya to remove the alcohol, cuz it's so bad... then add it back in to increase the octane... OK...
Yes - there can be problems with ethanol-containing fuels. The vast majority of them arise from improper storage - at the station, or in your garage. Water infiltration into the storage tanks is the most common issue. Whether from condensation or run-off from rainfall, whatever the source, excess water in a storage tank is bad news, always was, even before ethanol. So buy your fuel from a station that sells a lot of fuel - it's most likely to have fresh fuel.
There's 3 things that cause trouble for fuels.
1. Time. The more time that passes for a fuel in a tank, the more degradation of the fuel. So - buy it, then use it. Most fuels are good for about 3 months in a cool, dry place, out of strong light.
2. Temperature. Constant, cool-ish temperatures are good. 60°F is ideal. Excursions/swings of temperature from hot to cold will hasten degradation. The more excursions, the wider the temperature spread, the worse it will be.
3. Treatment. That means additives. The original additives in the fuel are put there to mitigate degradation of the fuel - the more time that passes, the more temperature excursions, the quicker these additves will be "used up" - and fail, allowing degration to occur.
Hope this helps, or is at least of interest..