Oil change ? - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Oil change ?

Alright this makes the second oil change since I got the bike.
Call me anal but I never know what the last person did as far as oil changes goes before I got the bike. So I did one with a new filter drove around some. I just changed it again I figure the first like a cleaning oil change, I know it sounds crazy. Anyway the bike was warm pulled filter and plug even held the bike toward me for quite some time till oil quit draining. Put new filter (fram ph6017A) and put the drain plug back in put 2 quarts of mobil1 4t Synthetic in. When I hold the bike level the oil level comes about 2/3 rds of the way between the bottom and top mark in the oil check window . I know from reading some guys say it takes a 2.5 quarts, and even the service manual says oil cap. 2.5 quarts. What am I doing wrong?
Thanks.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 02:20 PM
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As long as your oil level is in-between the lines in the sight glass your good. I usally put close to 2.4 qts in mine just to be sure. I know its more than needed its close to the top of the sight glass.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 02:40 PM
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I let mine drain for about an hour and changed the filter, takes 2.2 QT to bring it halfway up the glass. 2012.

My KLR will suck down 2.7 qt to the top of the glass filter change and all. It said 2.5 QT i the manual.

Like Weljo2001 if it's in right place in the sight glass that's all that matters to me. I check the oil level every time I start the bike as KLR are known oil burner at high RPM and motors cost real money...oil's cheap!

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 10:18 PM
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Check it again once engine is completely cooled down... Were they quarts or liters?
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 11:42 PM
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I drain the oil with the bike on the side stand. Then rock the bike to the left side, and more oil comes out. Repeat. It will increase the amount of oil you need to add.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 11:52 PM
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After draining most of it out and removing oil filter, you can get more oil out of the pump by turning the engine over a couple turns by rotating rear wheel by hand up on the rear lift a turn or two in 6th gear. (Shift into second while spinning rear wheel by hand, then shift up to 6th by turning rear wheel a bit. Shift by hand without pulling clutch lever.)
The longer you let it drain after leaning it over both sides as much as possible, the more old oil you'll get out.

After refilling with new oil, you can prime the pump, filter and engine by rotating rear wheel in 6th gear again, before starting engine. You'll see the oil level quickly settle down near where it should be.

Last edited by invader; 09-07-2012 at 07:38 PM.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-07-2012, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
I check the oil level every time I start the bike as KLR are known oil burner at high RPM and motors cost real money...oil's cheap!
Have you tried adding a PCV valve between the crankcase and air box? It does seem to help with oil consumption.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-07-2012, 10:28 AM
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When I switched from dino oil to synthetic at 1200 miles I spent darn near two hours using the above methods as best I could to get as much oil out as I could.

When I filled it, it barely took 2.3 quarts to be right in the middle of the sight glass.

If I do a normal oil/filter change where these steps aren't taken, just letting the oil stop dripping then replace the plug, it takes exactly 2 quarts.


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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-07-2012, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by invader View Post
You can get more oil out of the pump by turning the engine over a couple turns by rotating rear wheel up on the rear lift a turn or two in 6th gear, after draining most of it out. (Shift into second while spinning rear wheel by hand, then shift up to 6th by turning rear wheel a bit. Shift by hand without pulling clutch lever.) Do that before removing oil filter, or most of it will spew out where it mounts... The longer you let it drain after leaning it over both sides as much as possible, the more old oil you'll get out.

After refilling with new oil, you can prime the pump, filter and engine by rotating rear wheel in 6th gear again, before starting engine. You'll see the oil level quickly settle down to where it should be.
good info. i have to try this for my next oil change. thx.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-07-2012, 07:39 PM
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good info. i have to try this for my next oil change. thx.
Actually, rotate rear wheel by hand in its normal direction in 6th gear after draining it and removing oil filter, but expect some extra oil to be expulsed at the oil filter mount.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-07-2012, 08:00 PM
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By the way, if you ever remove your valve cover to check valve clearances, you'll see a large cavity with old stagnant oil collected on the front left of cylinder head. It can be absorbed and cleaned with towels... If you remove camshafts to adjust valve clearances, you can clean out the metal shavings and some black residue collected at the cylinder head bolt heads which are slightly magnetic. Q-tips help.

Last edited by invader; 09-07-2012 at 08:25 PM.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-07-2012, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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I added maybe an 1/8 more of a quart, brought it close to the top line but not over.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-07-2012, 09:11 PM
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That's perfect.
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