Battery/Charging Issue - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-03-2012, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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Battery/Charging Issue

I rode about 40 miles total with this issue. I noticed low battery level (12 volts) right away after starting bike. Did not get better as I rode 70mph down the interstate. Use of 10 watt LED lights did not effect discharge rate. Rode about 30 miles before voltage dropped to 10 volts. Turned LED lights off, turned Garmin 550 GPS off, used only low beam. Drove another 5 miles and voltage dropped to just under 10 with very dim headlight. Got to my garage, turned off bike. Would not start again. Could not get bike running to check charging system. May be battery, may be stator of charging system. Will charge battery and check bike tomorrow. Anyone else have this issue? What did it end up being?


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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-03-2012, 11:36 PM
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It's usually the stator that has failed... What's your mileage? Some of us have switched to a Compufire series type R/R to reduce alternator load and stator heat.

Last edited by invader; 09-03-2012 at 11:39 PM.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-03-2012, 11:39 PM
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Alternator Inspection
There are three types of alternator failures: short, open (wire burned out), or loss in rotor magnetism. A short or open in one of the coil wires will result in either a low output, or no output at all. A loss in rotor magnetism, which may be caused by dropping or hitting the alternator, by leaving it near an electromagnetic field, or just by aging, will result in low output.

•To check the alternator output voltage, do the following procedures.
○Turn off the ignition switch.
○Disconnect the alternator lead connector.
○Connect the hand tester as shown in the table 1.
○Start the engine.
○Run it at the rpm given in the table 1.
○Note the voltage readings (total 3 measurements).
Table 1 Alternator Output Voltage
Tester Range: AC 250 V
Tester Connections: (+) to One White lead, (-) to Another White lead
Reading at 4000 rpm: 42 V or more.
If the output voltage shows the value in the table, the alternator operates properly.
If the output voltage shows a much higher than the value in the table, the regulator/rectifier is damaged. A much lower reading than that given in the table indicates that the alternator is defective.

•Check the stator coil resistance as follows.
○Stop the engine.
○Connect the hand tester as shown in the table 2.
○Note the readings (total 3 measurement).
Table 2 Stator Coil Resistance
Tester Range" x 1 Ω
Tester (+) to One White lead
Tester (-) to Another White lead
Reading: 0.18 ∼ 0.27 Ω
If there is more resistance than shown in the table, or no hand tester reading (infinity) for any two leads, the stator has an open lead and must be replaced. Much less than this resistance means the stator is shorted, and must be replaced.
•Using the highest resistance range of the hand tester, measure the resistance between each of the black leads and chassis ground. Any hand tester reading less than infinity (∞) indicates a short, necessitating stator replacement. If the stator coils have normal resistance, but the voltage check showed the alternator to be defective; then the rotor magnets have probably weakened, and the rotor must be replaced.

Regulator/Rectifier Inspection
•Disconnect the connector
•Remove the regulator/rectifier.

Rectifier Circuit Check
•Check conductivity of the following pair of terminals.
Rectifier Circuit Inspection
W/BL-BK1, W/BL-BK2, W/BL-BK3
Tester connection
BK/Y-BK1, BK/Y-BK2, BK/Y-BK3
The resistance should be low in one direction and more than ten times as much in the other direction. If any two leads are low or high in both directions, the rectifier is defective and the regulator/rectifier must be replaced.
NOTE
○The actual meter reading varies with the meter used and the individual rectifier, but, generally speaking the lower reading should be from zero to one half the scale.

Regulator Circuit Check
To test the regulator out of circuit, use three 12 V batteries and a test light (12 V 3 ∼ 6 W bulb in a socket with leads).
CAUTION
The test light works as an indicator and also a current limiter to protect the regulator/rectifier from excessive current. Do not use an ammeter instead of a test light.
•Check to be sure the rectifier circuit is normal before continuing.
•Do the 1st step regulator circuit test.
○Connect the test light and the 12 V battery to the regulator/ rectifier as shown.
○Check the BK1, BK2 and BK3 terminal respectively.
If the test light turns on, the regulator/rectifier is defective. Replace it.
If the test light does not turn on, continue the test.

•Do the 2nd step regulator circuit test.
○Connect the test light and the 12 V battery in the same
manner as specified in the “Regulator Circuit Test-1st Step”.
○Apply 12 V to the voltage BR terminal.
○Check the BK1, BK2 and BK3 terminal respectively.
If the test light turns on, the regulator/rectifier is defective. Replace it.
If the test light does not turn on, continue the test.

•Do the 3rd step regulator circuit test.
○Connect the test light and the 12 V battery in the same manner as specified in the “Regulator Circuit Test-1st Step”.
○Momentarily apply 24 V to the voltage BR terminal by adding a 12 V battery.
○Check the BK1, BK2 and BK3 terminals respectively.
CAUTION
Do not applymore than 24 V. If more than 24 V is applied, the regulator/rectifier may be damaged. Do not apply 24 V more than a few seconds. If 24 V is applied for more than a few seconds, the regulator/rectifier may be damaged. If the test light did not light when the 24 V was applied momentarily to the voltage monitoring terminal, the regulator/rectifier is defective. Replace it.

If the regulator/rectifier passes all of the tests described, it may still be defective. If the charging system still does not work properly after checking all of the components and the battery, test the regulator/rectifier by replacing it with a known good unit.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-03-2012, 11:51 PM
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^hard to beat that post....but how old is your battery?
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-04-2012, 12:47 AM
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Go Invader... and Ricky Spanish probably is one of the 3 problems mentioned also could be the brake light is on continiously?

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-04-2012, 01:34 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Invader, but I do have a factory repair manual It was a burned up stator. The battery is two years old. Damn that's an expensive part. And just turned over 19000 miles


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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-04-2012, 01:35 AM Thread Starter
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-04-2012, 02:04 AM
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-04-2012, 02:25 AM Thread Starter
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Already found a wrecked one in a you-pull-it salvage yard. Just need an allen socket and an 8mm socket. Ricks is definitely the next option, bikebandit.com wants over $300 for it.


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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-04-2012, 02:32 AM
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Looked like 3 burnt out coils, is that correct? Very short 19k miles life for these coils.

Present Ride: Yamaha Super Tenere 2012
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-04-2012, 03:26 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2daMax View Post
Looked like 3 burnt out coils, is that correct? Very short 19k miles life for these coils.
3 windings. The whole thing is one coil. It has several pegs that have wire wrapped around them, or "windings".

My associates of applied science in electrical theory and commercial wiring won't help me get a job in this economy, so I have to use it for something.

Seems like that is about when they go if they are going to crap out. Found a few like that over on the UK forum too.


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Last edited by Motopsycho; 09-04-2012 at 03:27 AM. Reason: more info
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-04-2012, 09:35 PM
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