Throttle free play adjuster - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-02-2018, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
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Throttle free play adjuster

From the dealer my throttle cable adjustment is tight against the lock nut. Can I turn the adjuster counter clockwise without loosening the lock nut? Don't want to damage anything but I don't think there is enough space to back off the lock nut alone. There certainly isn't much room to get a good grip on anything with the hand guard in place.

Bike is a 2016 Versys 650 LT.

Thanks for any advise.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 02:28 AM
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Originally Posted by tennistime99 View Post
From the dealer my throttle cable adjustment is tight against the lock nut. Can I turn the adjuster counter clockwise without loosening the lock nut? Don't want to damage anything but I don't think there is enough space to back off the lock nut alone. There certainly isn't much room to get a good grip on anything with the hand guard in place.

Bike is a 2016 Versys 650 LT.

Thanks for any advise.
Just put one wrench on the lock nut and another wrench on the adjuster. Loosen the adjuster. This should give you enough room to loosen the lock nut. Adjust the free play and then tighten the locknut against the adjuster. Don't worry, if you don't force anything, you will not cause any damage.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by tennistime99 View Post
From the dealer my throttle cable adjustment is tight against the lock nut. Can I turn the adjuster counter clockwise without loosening the lock nut? Don't want to damage anything but I don't think there is enough space to back off the lock nut alone. There certainly isn't much room to get a good grip on anything with the hand guard in place.

Bike is a 2016 Versys 650 LT.

Thanks for any advise.
Could you explain what you are looking at. There should be a very small amount of free play in the throttle, 2 to 3 degrees of rotation, without moving the throttle cam, also you should try to see if releasing the throttle at WOT that it snaps back, as I have seen a pinched throttle cable, which didn't return properly , manual also says to check at full lock of steering, for the same reason of pinched cable.. The adjuster under the grip should have about 1/8 to 1/4 inch of thread exposed , if less than that or no thread exposed, you need to use the main adjustment found close to the throttle cam, usually covered with a slid over rubber boot, this will require 2 wrenches, as the adjuster has a jam nut for each side. The owners manual should also explain this.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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Could you explain what you are looking at.
My throttle feels like it has more free play than I think it should, I can rotate the throttle a half inch or so. The manual says to adjust it at the handlebars. The adjustment and lock nut are the finger grip type, no hex nuts for a wrench. They are both tight against the housing and I can only grip then with the tip of my fingers, no leverage. I'm probably going to have to get a pair of pliers to loosen the adjuster enough to back off the lock nut. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to strip something. I messed around with my other bike and was able to loosen the adjustment without loosening the lock nut, but it's not tight against the housing like the V. I'll take some pictures when I get home.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 12:32 PM
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My '17 650 LT is the same way, all tight against the throttle housing, but the throttle free play is just right. As you stated, the locking 'nut' and adjuster are just knurled so you'll have to use a pair of pliers to loosen them. If you have to back the adjuster out quite a ways to take up the slack, I would recommend taking up the slack at the carbs.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
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My '17 650 LT is the same way, all tight against the throttle housing, but the throttle free play is just right. As you stated, the locking 'nut' and adjuster are just knurled so you'll have to use a pair of pliers to loosen them. If you have to back the adjuster out quite a ways to take up the slack, I would recommend taking up the slack at the carbs.
That's what I figured, just nervous to have to use tools where none should have been needed. Thanks for the info.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 12:52 PM
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I didn't realize these adjusters were knurled until you mentioned it (they are pretty much hidden from sight). I am surprised that Kawasaki used knurling instead of hex nuts (I'm pretty sure my '13 Versys was hex). I consider this adjustment somewhat critical and would prefer that wrenches are used to keep it tight.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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I was able to snap some photos to illustrate the issues.

From the dealership the adjustment knobs were tight against the housing. Tight enough where I couldn't back them off with just my fingers:



I needed to get rid of quite a bit of free play:



After adjustment my free play and adjuster knobs looked like this:





Haven't gotten to take it for a spin yet but the throttle snaps back from lock to lock on the steering so I think I'm good to go.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-04-2018, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tennistime99 View Post
I was able to snap some photos to illustrate the issues.

From the dealership the adjustment knobs were tight against the housing. Tight enough where I couldn't back them off with just my fingers:



I needed to get rid of quite a bit of free play:



After adjustment my free play and adjuster knobs looked like this:





Haven't gotten to take it for a spin yet but the throttle snaps back from lock to lock on the steering so I think I'm good to go.
Very clever using that illustration method, I may add this to the how to forum, I would advise you that if further adjustment is needed to do it near the throttle cam. For now I have stuck this thread. Thanks for taking the time and effort to post your findings, I am sure it will help others, especially the finished proper amount of free play in your second last photo.

Last edited by onewizard; 01-04-2018 at 06:05 AM.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-04-2018, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
Very clever using that illustration method, I may add this to the how to forum, I would advise you that if further adjustment is needed to do it near the throttle cam. For now I have stuck this thread. Thanks for taking the time and effort to post your findings, I am sure it will help others, especially the finished proper amount of free play in your second last photo.
Hmm... I don't see any picture or illustration method on Tennistime99's post? Is it just me?
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-04-2018, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
Very clever using that illustration method, I may add this to the how to forum, I would advise you that if further adjustment is needed to do it near the throttle cam. For now I have stuck this thread. Thanks for taking the time and effort to post your findings, I am sure it will help others, especially the finished proper amount of free play in your second last photo.
Thanks, onewizard.

The owners manual calls the cable under the tank the deceleration cable and says to make adjustments there if the handlebar adjustment no longer gives the proper free play. Hopefully my cable won't stretch that much for a long time.

Edit: not sure why it posted a picture at the end of this post?

Last edited by tennistime99; 01-04-2018 at 09:02 AM.
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-04-2018, 10:29 AM
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Yes, I did see your last picture of a red Versys, but it's gone now. I still don't see any image from your post on Jan 3 at 8:39 pm!
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-04-2018, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, I did see your last picture of a red Versys, but it's gone now. I still don't see any image from your post on Jan 3 at 8:39 pm!
Bizarre, it should be post #8 in this thread.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-04-2018, 03:20 PM
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Thanks, onewizard.

The owners manual calls the cable under the tank the deceleration cable and says to make adjustments there if the handlebar adjustment no longer gives the proper free play. Hopefully my cable won't stretch that much for a long time.

Edit: not sure why it posted a picture at the end of this post?
You will probably never have to adjust the deceleration cable. It is only there so that you can shut the throttle if the throttle return spring fails. I think it is just a redundant way to shut the throttle for safety if the return spring fails (very unlikely). Older motorcycles did not have this cable.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-04-2018, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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You will probably never have to adjust the deceleration cable. It is only there so that you can shut the throttle if the throttle return spring fails. I think it is just a redundant way to shut the throttle for safety if the return spring fails (very unlikely). Older motorcycles did not have this cable.
That's kind of the confusion from the owners manual. They call it the deceleration cable to adjust the ACCELERATION cable if the adjustment at the handlebar isn't enough. Just glad the adjustment I was able to make was enough.
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-04-2018, 06:22 PM
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Reminds me i need to adjust mine also...Been meaning to do it for the last few months...

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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-04-2018, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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