Had to take the last week off due to pipe leak and all my wooden floors flooded and warped. Thank goodness for insurance though I have a $2500 deductible and have to pay the plumbing repairs myself. But looks like they are going to pay for everything else-wood flooring, drywall, baseboards and painting.
Onewizard, I read through all the forum stator pages way back when and it seemed a little daunting so I took it to the dealer since they have a $55 1/2 hr diagnosis fee. Sounded reasonable and would definitively tell me what the problem was. They said it was the stator and nothing else.
So the seller contacted me right away when I sent him an email with what I learned from the forum. He gave me permission to show you his response.
I understand your concern about the hotspot on the stator. I personally tested the stator and voltage regulator before disassembling the motorcycle, so I know it works. I have been fixing motorcycles for more than 20 years and in my experience, those hotspots do not indicate a non working stator. The best way to test the stator is to install it in your bike and measure the voltage at the battery with the bike running. The voltage at the battery should read 13.1 to 14.7.
Another way to test it with the stator off the bike is by checking continuity between the three different fields on the plug. You can do this with any multi meter. There should be no continuity between the three fields.
To be 100% sure is to install it on your motorcycle and test it. Keep in mind that the stator works together with the voltage regulator. If you have a faulty voltage regulator, the motorcycle will not charge.
For better understanding of these procedures, I suggest you get the service manual for this bike. It has instructions and pictures on how to perform these procedures for your bike. Look online that many forum users share the links for the pdf manuals for free.
I found the service manual online, if you check page 520 chapter 16-32 it gives you the instructions on how to test the stator.
If you have problems troubleshooting your motorcycle, I can help you as much as I can. Let me know."
So I tried his continuity test on the one he sold me. As far as I could tell, I needed to touch in succession each white wire in the 3 wire plug to the black center of the stator to check continuity. Seemed to be none. So I installed stator today and I'm getting 14.6 VDC at the battery as he suggests. Does it sound like I lucked out and it is a good one? Or am I missing something?
I am going to tell you that you got ripped off 100% sure, I worked in a electric motor shop for 9 years, I rewound motors, generators, etc. there is a post in this forum where a member rewound a stator by hand and remarkably well done, I did provide some assistance and support, however for what he accomplished, was truly remarkable , I really can't take any credit for what he accomplished. After that I specialized in large inverters, biggest I worked on is 2.5 million watts or 2.5 mega watts.
If my post sounds like I am upset, it troubles me when some people are able to convince a buyer that it just looks defective even they know better ( that I refer to as a crooked seller), as a professional I was trying to help, you installing it has basically voided any possible return as he can say it worked when he sold it. Take that photo to any electric motor shop and ask them. Anyway it wasn't $200 , and in the future, don't be afraid to PM me, I have helped people in Italy and Spain, Google translate wasn't much help but we worked through it, in the end I revise some explanations as what is clear to me isn't usually clear to many others.
That stator has shorted turns, and the proper bench test method is to use a LCR meter, L is inductive, C capacitive and R resistance
, all 3 phases should check the same value in millihenries, next you should be using a 100 volt meggar from each phase to ground, which should be 1 million ohms or better, anything to ground is junk. To test in the bike, I thought I explained quite clearly, the plug from the stator that goes to the regulator is disconnected and you set idle on the bike to 2000 RPM using the idle screw adjustment, this needs to be done when the bike is up to temperature. So you are running strictly off the battery so definitely should have a charger / battery tender to help supply DC power while testing. The 2000 RPM is ball park, the key is the idle screw is fixing this speed, measuring the plug from the stator, check pin 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 3 to 1, all three voltages are volts AC and should be around 26 to 28 volts AC, whatever voltage you get, that is say 28.2 VAC pin 1 to 2, pin 2 to 3 could be 27.7 to 28.7 VAC, pin 3 to 1 could be 28.0 VAC, this should be the same on all three phases or within 0.5 VAC of each other as I just showed in my example. I picked this RPM for a specific reason ( explained to do with magnetic iron properties and shorted turns / flux lines per square inch), Kawasaki says to read maximum volts AC somewhere around 48 VAC , this is flawed, however if you want to run with the idle screw up to 4000 RPM go for it, the same 0.5 VAC applies, expect to reach or exceed 48 VAC. Bottom line you got ripped off, absolutely 0 doubt in my mind.
Here are some photos from our Burnt stator thread showing similar failed stators;
A picture is worth a thousand words
Could add your photo to the list.