should it look like this? - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-06-2017, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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should it look like this?

Bought a used stator on ebay (from a guy with a 100% rep) however I was wondering if anyone has anything to say regarding the 2 brownish black posts at top of the pic. If anyone has seen a new one is this what they all look like? If so any reason why?
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-06-2017, 08:48 PM
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Ripped off

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Originally Posted by kuri77 View Post
Bought a used stator on ebay (from a guy with a 100% rep) however I was wondering if anyone has anything to say regarding the 2 brownish black posts at top of the pic. If anyone has seen a new one is this what they all look like? If so any reason why?
You just got ripped off.
I found the original add on Ebay, closed October 4th, $49.99 plus shipping, described as in good condition. Well obviously the seller has no clue. That stator has shorted turns and is junk.Ask for your money back and move on.
This was copied and pasted from the add on ebay;

USED 2009 VERSYS 650 KLE650 EX650 EX 650 STATOR IN GOOD CONDITION.
THIS STATOR CAME OFF A RUNNING 2009 VERSYS WITH 12K MILES.
THESE PARTS WILL ALSO FIT 2006-2009 EX650.

EVERYTHING YOU SEE IN THE PICTURES IS INCLUDED. THESE PARTS MAY FIT OTHER YEARS, CHECK WITH YOUR LOCAL DEALER.


The photos were posted , so buyer be ware, you should have posted a question on this forum before you bought it . So this is my expertise , hence the many different threads all related to electrical and stator's. I don't mind helping.

you need help, ask, I am usually on once per day.
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...regulator.html
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...r-testing.html
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...gs-2015-a.html
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ks-stator.html
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...r-install.html

Last edited by onewizard; 10-06-2017 at 09:08 PM.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-06-2017, 08:59 PM
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Looks kinda like mine did.....after it failed.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-06-2017, 10:24 PM
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That stator is bad. The discoloration on the two coils is caused from heat produced from shorted out windings.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-07-2017, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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You're right about asking here first but I was swayed by his 100% rating. Why would he risk it for $50 unless he never plans on selling on ebay again? Oh well takes all types I guess. Thanks for the offer onewizard. Thanks to others who replied also.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-07-2017, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuri77 View Post
You're right about asking here first but I was swayed by his 100% rating. Why would he risk it for $50 unless he never plans on selling on ebay again? Oh well takes all types I guess. Thanks for the offer onewizard. Thanks to others who replied also.
its really easy to get a 100% rating thru fake self sales (loose a bit of money but makes it easy to screw sucker) my husband got screwed by one of those sellers once when getting a ham radio, guy had 100% rating and like just under 100 sales , paid almost $200 for a ham radio and never showed up, and about a week after the sale his account was deleted and no contact (good thing paypal always sides on the buyers side)

yes im a guy.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-07-2017, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info Silviefox, didn't know the fake self sales bit. Learn something every day. Right about paypal and ebay siding with buyer.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-07-2017, 05:32 PM
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FYI Replacement Stator

Quote:
Originally Posted by kuri77 View Post
Bought a used stator on ebay (from a guy with a 100% rep) however I was wondering if anyone has anything to say regarding the 2 brownish black posts at top of the pic. If anyone has seen a new one is this what they all look like? If so any reason why?
I just went back a few of your posts, looks like you suspect your stator but aren't clear on testing it, what is easy to me, may be very complicated to others, however I need to know what isn't understood to rephrase my/the testing method.

Last edited by onewizard; 10-07-2017 at 05:36 PM.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-18-2017, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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Had to take the last week off due to pipe leak and all my wooden floors flooded and warped. Thank goodness for insurance though I have a $2500 deductible and have to pay the plumbing repairs myself. But looks like they are going to pay for everything else-wood flooring, drywall, baseboards and painting.

Onewizard, I read through all the forum stator pages way back when and it seemed a little daunting so I took it to the dealer since they have a $55 1/2 hr diagnosis fee. Sounded reasonable and would definitively tell me what the problem was. They said it was the stator and nothing else.
So the seller contacted me right away when I sent him an email with what I learned from the forum. He gave me permission to show you his response.

"Hi Chris,
I understand your concern about the hotspot on the stator. I personally tested the stator and voltage regulator before disassembling the motorcycle, so I know it works. I have been fixing motorcycles for more than 20 years and in my experience, those hotspots do not indicate a non working stator. The best way to test the stator is to install it in your bike and measure the voltage at the battery with the bike running. The voltage at the battery should read 13.1 to 14.7.
Another way to test it with the stator off the bike is by checking continuity between the three different fields on the plug. You can do this with any multi meter. There should be no continuity between the three fields.
To be 100% sure is to install it on your motorcycle and test it. Keep in mind that the stator works together with the voltage regulator. If you have a faulty voltage regulator, the motorcycle will not charge.
For better understanding of these procedures, I suggest you get the service manual for this bike. It has instructions and pictures on how to perform these procedures for your bike. Look online that many forum users share the links for the pdf manuals for free.
I found the service manual online, if you check page 520 chapter 16-32 it gives you the instructions on how to test the stator.
If you have problems troubleshooting your motorcycle, I can help you as much as I can. Let me know."

So I tried his continuity test on the one he sold me. As far as I could tell, I needed to touch in succession each white wire in the 3 wire plug to the black center of the stator to check continuity. Seemed to be none. So I installed stator today and I'm getting 14.6 VDC at the battery as he suggests. Does it sound like I lucked out and it is a good one? Or am I missing something?
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-18-2017, 05:30 PM
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Maybe you got lucky & will continue in bliss...maybe the next hot day with an extended run you will end up making a panicked phone call. Good luck & keep us posted.
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-18-2017, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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Hope so but anyway once I feel sure it's okay then from what I'm reading here I should be changing my regulator to better my chances. Guess that's next on the list.
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-18-2017, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuri77 View Post
Had to take the last week off due to pipe leak and all my wooden floors flooded and warped. Thank goodness for insurance though I have a $2500 deductible and have to pay the plumbing repairs myself. But looks like they are going to pay for everything else-wood flooring, drywall, baseboards and painting.

Onewizard, I read through all the forum stator pages way back when and it seemed a little daunting so I took it to the dealer since they have a $55 1/2 hr diagnosis fee. Sounded reasonable and would definitively tell me what the problem was. They said it was the stator and nothing else.
So the seller contacted me right away when I sent him an email with what I learned from the forum. He gave me permission to show you his response.

"Hi Chris,
I understand your concern about the hotspot on the stator. I personally tested the stator and voltage regulator before disassembling the motorcycle, so I know it works. I have been fixing motorcycles for more than 20 years and in my experience, those hotspots do not indicate a non working stator. The best way to test the stator is to install it in your bike and measure the voltage at the battery with the bike running. The voltage at the battery should read 13.1 to 14.7.
Another way to test it with the stator off the bike is by checking continuity between the three different fields on the plug. You can do this with any multi meter. There should be no continuity between the three fields.
To be 100% sure is to install it on your motorcycle and test it. Keep in mind that the stator works together with the voltage regulator. If you have a faulty voltage regulator, the motorcycle will not charge.
For better understanding of these procedures, I suggest you get the service manual for this bike. It has instructions and pictures on how to perform these procedures for your bike. Look online that many forum users share the links for the pdf manuals for free.
I found the service manual online, if you check page 520 chapter 16-32 it gives you the instructions on how to test the stator.
If you have problems troubleshooting your motorcycle, I can help you as much as I can. Let me know."

So I tried his continuity test on the one he sold me. As far as I could tell, I needed to touch in succession each white wire in the 3 wire plug to the black center of the stator to check continuity. Seemed to be none. So I installed stator today and I'm getting 14.6 VDC at the battery as he suggests. Does it sound like I lucked out and it is a good one? Or am I missing something?
I am going to tell you that you got ripped off 100% sure, I worked in a electric motor shop for 9 years, I rewound motors, generators, etc. there is a post in this forum where a member rewound a stator by hand and remarkably well done, I did provide some assistance and support, however for what he accomplished, was truly remarkable , I really can't take any credit for what he accomplished. After that I specialized in large inverters, biggest I worked on is 2.5 million watts or 2.5 mega watts.
If my post sounds like I am upset, it troubles me when some people are able to convince a buyer that it just looks defective even they know better ( that I refer to as a crooked seller), as a professional I was trying to help, you installing it has basically voided any possible return as he can say it worked when he sold it. Take that photo to any electric motor shop and ask them. Anyway it wasn't $200 , and in the future, don't be afraid to PM me, I have helped people in Italy and Spain, Google translate wasn't much help but we worked through it, in the end I revise some explanations as what is clear to me isn't usually clear to many others.

That stator has shorted turns, and the proper bench test method is to use a LCR meter, L is inductive, C capacitive and R resistance
, all 3 phases should check the same value in millihenries, next you should be using a 100 volt meggar from each phase to ground, which should be 1 million ohms or better, anything to ground is junk. To test in the bike, I thought I explained quite clearly, the plug from the stator that goes to the regulator is disconnected and you set idle on the bike to 2000 RPM using the idle screw adjustment, this needs to be done when the bike is up to temperature. So you are running strictly off the battery so definitely should have a charger / battery tender to help supply DC power while testing. The 2000 RPM is ball park, the key is the idle screw is fixing this speed, measuring the plug from the stator, check pin 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 3 to 1, all three voltages are volts AC and should be around 26 to 28 volts AC, whatever voltage you get, that is say 28.2 VAC pin 1 to 2, pin 2 to 3 could be 27.7 to 28.7 VAC, pin 3 to 1 could be 28.0 VAC, this should be the same on all three phases or within 0.5 VAC of each other as I just showed in my example. I picked this RPM for a specific reason ( explained to do with magnetic iron properties and shorted turns / flux lines per square inch), Kawasaki says to read maximum volts AC somewhere around 48 VAC , this is flawed, however if you want to run with the idle screw up to 4000 RPM go for it, the same 0.5 VAC applies, expect to reach or exceed 48 VAC. Bottom line you got ripped off, absolutely 0 doubt in my mind.

Here are some photos from our Burnt stator thread showing similar failed stators;
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...0-post410.html
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...7-post419.html
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...9-post301.html
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...2-post267.html
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...6-post276.html
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...1-post186.html
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...t=burnt+stator
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...t=burnt+stator

A picture is worth a thousand words Could add your photo to the list.

Last edited by onewizard; 10-18-2017 at 07:26 PM.
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-18-2017, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your reply onewizard. Will go through your tests and let you know.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-18-2017, 07:56 PM
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buying a used stator may save some dollars at the time..but they only last so long...the number of miles on it would be the my greatest concern..as you will be replacing it sooner than a new one...I highly suggest getting some sort of led monitor for the charging system..so you'll know when the stator is going bad before you find out the hard way with a dead battery in the middle of a great ride...good luck...
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-19-2017, 08:16 AM
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Series Regulator

A word of caution, I have been following stator failure of the Versys since 2008, several have failed single phase, some like the one you posted with shorted turns aren't as much of a problem, but , what can happen, is if one phase blows open from a short, doesn't have any shorted turns, this can cause the regulator to fail as the output per phase is square root of 3, or 1.732 X 13.27 amp = 23 amp, installing a series regulator will reduce the chances of failure by about 40% on a new stator, on what you have it may also help, however as I said, it could cause regulator failure as the maximum phase current of the regulator is 13 amp not 23 which could happen, however I will contradict myself by saying that base load is around 14 amp. Yes makes no sense except to me and some electrical wizards here.
Don't be afraid to ask, there are no stupid questions, just stupid people. ( this was on every Induction print I ever read, I think some engineer had a weird sense of humor)
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-19-2017, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
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Don't be afraid to ask, there are no stupid questions, just stupid people. ( this was on every Induction print I ever read, I think some engineer had a weird sense of humor)
Beg to differ.... IF you ask an "expert" for advice (or a solution...) and are given one, then DON'T use that solution - then LATER ON ask the same question - THAT ONE IS A STUPID QUESTION!


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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-22-2017, 12:27 AM Thread Starter
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So you were totally right onewizard. Took me 3 tries at HF before I could get a good multimeter to test continuity. VAC on 2 were 23 and 24 but the third one was 1.6, contacted the seller and he apologized and offered a refund with no hassle so I'll give him the benefit of the doubt and hope he was not a proficient tester rather than a con-guy. Think I read somewhere, maybe here, that there are other stators such as for KLR that will fit for me. Is that true and is there a list of the other ones that will work? Back to square one, not a total loss though since I didn't use the new gasket I bought and now I have enough experience taking the cover off (20X or so) to get it back on without killing the gasket.
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-22-2017, 08:07 AM
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Used Stator / New After Market

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Originally Posted by kuri77 View Post
So you were totally right onewizard. Took me 3 tries at HF before I could get a good multimeter to test continuity. VAC on 2 were 23 and 24 but the third one was 1.6, contacted the seller and he apologized and offered a refund with no hassle so I'll give him the benefit of the doubt and hope he was not a proficient tester rather than a con-guy. Think I read somewhere, maybe here, that there are other stators such as for KLR that will fit for me. Is that true and is there a list of the other ones that will work? Back to square one, not a total loss though since I didn't use the new gasket I bought and now I have enough experience taking the cover off (20X or so) to get it back on without killing the gasket.
Used , a KLR or Ninja 650, take your old one with you, the inside diameter, the bolt pattern and stator depth ( width of lamination's or thickness within 0.100 of a inch of your old one). There is a new stator available on this forum, however you should add a Polaris regulator as it is a Y connected stator.
Below is a used stator which I helped install and it is 100% OK ,however I also installed a Polaris regulator , without going into detail here, any Y connected aftermarket stator should be paired with a Series regulator such as the 4012941 Polaris 95% aftermarket are Y connected, original is delta connected. a brief story why it was removed, concern was the stator was inadequate compared to original equipment, so I found a used Ninja stator from a wrecker and purchased it for him, he installed it and then told me the used stator was doing the same thing, so suspect was the Polaris regulator******well, I am sure he will comment here but, as it turns out, he had a heads up voltage monitor and said it was going into the red at idle, ***what I found is you can't run high beam and have your idle at 1300 RPM and expect to be at 14.2 VDC, finding that was a relief If you need help sourcing one let me know, as I can direct you to a used Polaris on Ebay, I watch for this from time to time, lots of fake new 4012941 regulators.
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ghlight=stator

Info on testing http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...fo-2017-a.html And it looks like I need to organize some of my testing posts.http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...e-trigger.html

The next best thing is:
KAWASAKI VERSYS 650, 07-10 - Buy the BEST Stator Regulator/Rectifier CDI - ElectroSport

As to Ricks, steer clear of, JMHO .http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ks-stator.html
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-22-2017, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the info. Sent Smiley a PM about buying it.
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-22-2017, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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Looks like there are a lot of Polaris regulators around after checking ebay but since I'm not qualified I'd appreciate the help you offered for searching out a good, non-fake one. If you find one and think it should be snatched up right away I will gladly reimburse you for any costs. Thanks onewizard.
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