re: Stator issues? - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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Old 06-27-2012, 01:30 AM Thread Starter
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re: Stator issues?

Hi there fellow Versysians... about 4 months ago on a country ride - my battery died and found that the Stator had died - and hence the battery not getting a charge... bought a new Battery, a new Stator and as a precaution changed the Rectifier too and fitted a voltage guage indicator too BUT after a while notice that the indicator showed the battery wasn't getting it's full charge - I did the check (via the service manual by checking the voltage output) and found that the new Stator wasn't charging - so under warranty it was changed - I just fitted the new in (today) and it still doesn't charge as high as what the service manual recommends @ 14.2V (I'm getting only max 13.5v @ 5,500 rpm and around 12V at idle) but now I hear a whistling sound coming from the altenator cover and when I switch off the engine - the starter seems to clunk pretty heavily BUT when I disconnect the Stator/Altenator plug from the wiring loom - no whistle and no drama sound with the starter?... I've taken off the cover again to check if something is a miss - but can't see any drama.... the only thing that did happen was the 2 gears (for the starter motor) kinda came off their shafts when I took off the cover but I just slide them back on to where they were located - could I have mucked up something here?.... any ideas? would appreciated any information that would help here thanks..... regards Andreas ( I have a 2008 model)
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Old 06-27-2012, 03:56 AM Thread Starter
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sorry folks... I forgot to add this bit too.... when I discovered the Stator was no good and I had replaced it - the bike was fine for a couple of days however one morning as I was about to go to work - the headlight was glowing up and down when the throttle was reved (never had that before) and then when I went to work about 5minutes into the ride the headlight (which I had though blown) had ceased to work!...(thank God for the parker lights!) I replaced the globe but still no working headlight - checked the fuse under the seat and they were alright - so still a mystery... according to the Manual - there is a relay for the headlight but I can't find it anywhere!!! even the wiring diagram states that but I can't find it - again any ideas thanks....
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Old 06-27-2012, 04:13 AM
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Are your replacement regulator/rectifier and stator all Kawasaki parts? Have you tested the R/R? What battery do you have now?
The relay box contains relays for headlight, ECU, fuel pump, starter, and radiator fan.
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Old 06-27-2012, 06:01 AM
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Wish I could help. Your problems exceed what I've had to deal with. Another member reported that the plastic casing on his wiring loom had been worn through by rubbing on the frame, which was causing havoc. As far as the noise from the alternator cover, that is truly strange. Anyway, you've got the right guy signed up to your thread: if anyone can help you it'll be our friend from Kapuskasing. Good luck.
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Old 06-27-2012, 09:10 AM
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I don't think that the starter idle gear and torque limiter (upper gear) falling off and put back on would affect anything, unless maybe if they got dirty... Your low charging and headlight brightness fluctuation and failure are strange, as is the stator whistling and starter clunk only when alternator is connected. I wonder if there's a problem with your replacement regulator/rectifier.

Starter Motor Clutch Inspection
•Remove:
Alternator Cover
Starter Idle Gear and Torque Limiter
•Turn the starter motor clutch gear [A] by hand. The starter motor clutch gear should turn clockwise [B] freely, but should not turn counterclockwise [C].
If the starter motor clutch does not operate as it should or if it makes noise, go to the next step.
•Disassemble the starter motor clutch, and visually inspect the clutch parts.
If there is any worn or damaged part, replace it.
NOTE
○Examine the starter motor clutch gear as well. Replace it if it worn or damaged.

Starter Motor Clutch Disassembly
•Remove:
Alternator Rotor (see Alternator Rotor Removal)
Starter Motor Clutch Bolts [A]
•Remove the starter motor clutch [A].

Starter Motor Clutch Assembly
•Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of the starter motor clutch bolts and tighten them.
Torque - Starter Motor Clutch Bolts: 34 Nm (3.5 kgfm, 25ftlb)

Alternator Rotor Removal
•Remove:
Alternator Cover
Shafts [A]
Starter Idle Gear [B]
Torque Limiter [C]
•Wipe oil off the outer circumference of the rotor.
•Hold the alternator rotor steady with the rotor holder [A], and remove the rotor bolt [B] and washer.
Special Tools - Grip: 57001-1591
Rotor Holder: 57001-1658
•Using the flywheel puller [A], remove the alternator rotor from the crankshaft.
Special Tool - Flywheel Puller Assembly, M38 1.5/M35 1.5: 57001-1405

CAUTION
Do not attempt to strike the alternator rotor itself. Striking the rotor can cause the magnets to lose their magnetism.

Alternator Rotor Installation
•Using a cleaning fluid, clean off any oil or dirt on the following portions and dry them with a clean cloth.
Crankshaft Tapered Portion [A]
Alternator Rotor Tapered Portion [B]
•Apply a thin coat of molybdenum disulfide grease [C] to the crankshaft.
•Install the starter motor clutch gear [A] and washer [B].
•Again, clean the crankshaft tapered portion [C] and dry there.
•Install the alternator rotor [A] while turning [B] it counterclockwise.
•Install the washer [A].
NOTE
○Confirm the alternator rotor fit or not to the crankshaft before tightening it with specified torque.
•Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution to the threads and seating surface of the rotor bolt.
•Install the rotor bolt [B] and tighten it with 70 Nm (7.0 kgfm, 52 ftlb) of torque.
•Remove the rotor bolt and washer.
•Check the tightening torque with flywheel puller [A].
If the rotor is not pulled out with 20 Nm (2.0 kgfm, 15 ftlb) of drawing torque, it is installed correctly.
If the rotor is pulled out with under 20 Nm (2.0 kgfm, 15 ftlb) of drawing torque, clean off any oil dirt or flaw of the crankshaft and rotor tapered portion, and dry them with a clean cloth. Then, confirm that it is not pulled out with above torque.
•Install the rotor bolt and washer.
•Tighten the alternator rotor bolt [A] while holding the alternator rotor steady with the rotor holder [B].
Special Tools - Grip: 57001-1591
Rotor Holder: 57001-1658
Torque - Alternator Rotor Bolt: 155 Nm (15.8 kgfm, 114 ftlb)
•Apply a thin coat of molybdenum disulfide grease to the shafts [A], and install them. •Install the torque limiter [B] and starter idle gear [C].
•Install the alternator cover.
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Old 06-27-2012, 09:13 AM
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Alternator Inspection
There are three types of alternator failures: short, open (wire burned out), or loss in rotor magnetism. A short or open in one of the coil wires will result in either a low output, or no output at all. A loss in rotor magnetism, which may be caused by dropping or hitting the alternator, by leaving it near an electromagnetic field, or just by aging, will result in low output.

•To check the alternator output voltage, do the following procedures.
○Turn off the ignition switch.
○Disconnect the alternator lead connector.
○Connect the hand tester as shown in the table 1.
○Start the engine.
○Run it at the rpm given in the table 1.
○Note the voltage readings (total 3 measurements).
Table 1 Alternator Output Voltage
Tester Range: AC 250 V
Tester Connections: (+) to One White lead, (-) to Another White lead
Reading at 4000 rpm: 42 V or more.
If the output voltage shows the value in the table, the alternator operates properly.
If the output voltage shows a much higher than the value in the table, the regulator/rectifier is damaged. A much lower reading than that given in the table indicates that the alternator is defective.

•Check the stator coil resistance as follows.
○Stop the engine.
○Connect the hand tester as shown in the table 2.
○Note the readings (total 3 measurement).
Table 2 Stator Coil Resistance
Tester Range" x 1 Ω
Tester (+) to One White lead
Tester (-) to Another White lead
Reading: 0.18 ∼ 0.27 Ω
If there is more resistance than shown in the table, or no hand tester reading (infinity) for any two leads, the stator has an open lead and must be replaced. Much less than this resistance means the stator is shorted, and must be replaced.
•Using the highest resistance range of the hand tester, measure the resistance between each of the black leads and chassis ground. Any hand tester reading less than infinity (∞) indicates a short, necessitating stator replacement. If the stator coils have normal resistance, but the voltage check showed the alternator to be defective; then the rotor magnets have probably weakened, and the rotor must be replaced.

Regulator/Rectifier Inspection
•Disconnect the connector
•Remove the regulator/rectifier.

Rectifier Circuit Check
•Check conductivity of the following pair of terminals.
Rectifier Circuit Inspection
W/BL-BK1, W/BL-BK2, W/BL-BK3
Tester connection
BK/Y-BK1, BK/Y-BK2, BK/Y-BK3
The resistance should be low in one direction and more than ten times as much in the other direction. If any two leads are low or high in both directions, the rectifier is defective and the regulator/rectifier must be replaced.
NOTE
○The actual meter reading varies with the meter used and the individual rectifier, but, generally speaking the lower reading should be from zero to one half the scale.

Regulator Circuit Check
To test the regulator out of circuit, use three 12 V batteries and a test light (12 V 3 ∼ 6 W bulb in a socket with leads).
CAUTION
The test light works as an indicator and also a current limiter to protect the regulator/rectifier from excessive current. Do not use an ammeter instead of a test light.
•Check to be sure the rectifier circuit is normal before continuing.
•Do the 1st step regulator circuit test.
○Connect the test light and the 12 V battery to the regulator/ rectifier as shown.
○Check the BK1, BK2 and BK3 terminal respectively.
If the test light turns on, the regulator/rectifier is defective. Replace it.
If the test light does not turn on, continue the test.

•Do the 2nd step regulator circuit test.
○Connect the test light and the 12 V battery in the same
manner as specified in the “Regulator Circuit Test-1st Step”.
○Apply 12 V to the voltage BR terminal.
○Check the BK1, BK2 and BK3 terminal respectively.
If the test light turns on, the regulator/rectifier is defective. Replace it.
If the test light does not turn on, continue the test.

•Do the 3rd step regulator circuit test.
○Connect the test light and the 12 V battery in the same manner as specified in the “Regulator Circuit Test-1st Step”.
○Momentarily apply 24 V to the voltage BR terminal by adding a 12 V battery.
○Check the BK1, BK2 and BK3 terminals respectively.
CAUTION
Do not applymore than 24 V. If more than 24 V is applied, the regulator/rectifier may be damaged. Do not apply 24 V more than a few seconds. If 24 V is applied for more than a few seconds, the regulator/rectifier may be damaged. If the test light did not light when the 24 V was applied momentarily to the voltage monitoring terminal, the regulator/rectifier is defective. Replace it.

If the regulator/rectifier passes all of the tests described, it may still be defective. If the charging system still does not work properly after checking all of the components and the battery, test the regulator/rectifier by replacing it with a known good unit.

Last edited by invader; 06-27-2012 at 10:09 AM.
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Old 06-28-2012, 02:32 AM Thread Starter
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re: Stator issues

Hi there again... many thanks for the replies... I did find the relay box after I left the question (naturally d'oh!)... and have ordered another one which - when I eventually get will try and see if the headlights operated again - if this fails! - then I'll have to take the bike to a Motor bike Auto electrics guy and see what he can come up with... re: the parts I put in are not geniune Kawasaki as my daughter Sian - works for Harley Heaven here in Adelaide (who also own Kawasaki Honda Buell etc) and can get me parts at cost BUT! the regulator/rectifier was going to cost me $315 (counter price was $490!!!) she then told the cost of the Stator was $480 to me and counter cost was $670!!! - again you can appreciate me buying both items off eBay all coming from your wonderful country....

luckily we are now going into our Winter so the bike will be off the road for the next few months so I can go through this issue and sort it out soon! - I'll take on board all the information that has been given (and many sincere thanks for that!) and once I get the new relay fuse box and take another crack all this.....

here's hoping it gets sorted... thanks to all - Andreas
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Old 06-28-2012, 03:36 AM Thread Starter
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The Stator and Recifier were purchased from "Rick Motorsport Electrics Inc" Hamstead New Hampshire...
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Old 06-28-2012, 05:03 AM
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and do keep us posted.
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:24 AM
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Can you try it with your original regulator/rectifier first? What kind of replacement did you get?

Last edited by invader; 06-28-2012 at 10:28 AM.
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Old 06-28-2012, 07:26 PM
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This is a long shot, anyone with a stator out of the bike, I would appreciate if you could get some measurements. I need the outside and inside diameter, and the width of the stator were it bolts to the outside case. I have several leads, one is a stator re-builder in Quebec.
Everyone wants me to send them my stator to verify it is the same as their replacement, according to http://www.ronayers.com/ProductDetails/N/687/SKU/342628 , the Versys uses part #21003-0042 stator. Do a reverse search were used and it comes up with 2008, 2009, 2010 Ninja 650R and 2009 and 2010 ER 6n use the same stator.
I contacted the poster on Adventure Rider, that bought a stator from Custom Rewind, he couldn't find his bill and I was unable to find anything out from Gary at Custom ( his Dad passed away the weekend I called)

So I am hoping the stator will last until winter, then I intend to put my previous skills from the motor shop to good use.
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:50 PM
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I still have my old stator and can measure it on the weekend, if no one else chimes in sooner.
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Old 06-28-2012, 11:48 PM
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I have to ask the question, have you load-tested your battery to rule out any battery issues? Occam's Razor: In short, the simplest explanation is best.

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Old 06-29-2012, 12:00 AM Thread Starter
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Hi there Tigerpawed - I did buy a new battery at the same time (because I thought that was the problem in the first place - before the Stator was the issue - and plus that it was the orginal battery since new - bikes done 21ks) I got the Stator and Rectifier.... but will that on board when I get the new fuse relay and then we'll see what is what... I have to admitt, though I'm disappointed in this after reading other Versyserians have had the same issue's with their Stators...
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Old 06-29-2012, 01:02 AM
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It is hard to determine the fault when everything was replaced at the same time... I did ask about the replacement battery, as well as the replacement R/R.
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Old 06-29-2012, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
This is a long shot, anyone with a stator out of the bike, I would appreciate if you could get some measurements. I need the outside and inside diameter, and the width of the stator were it bolts to the outside case. I have several leads, one is a stator re-builder in Quebec.
Everyone wants me to send them my stator to verify it is the same as their replacement, according to http://www.ronayers.com/ProductDetails/N/687/SKU/342628 , the Versys uses part #21003-0042 stator. Do a reverse search were used and it comes up with 2008, 2009, 2010 Ninja 650R and 2009 and 2010 ER 6n use the same stator.
I contacted the poster on Adventure Rider, that bought a stator from Custom Rewind, he couldn't find his bill and I was unable to find anything out from Gary at Custom ( his Dad passed away the weekend I called)

So I am hoping the stator will last until winter, then I intend to put my previous skills from the motor shop to good use.
onewizard,
The outside diameter is 104 mm, the inside diameter is 42 mm, the thickness of the unit at the copper windings (there's actually sort of a shroud at the end of each winding, which stands a little proud of the copper wiring) is 27 mm, and the thickness of the centre of the stator where it bolts to the cover is approximately 21 mm (I can't actually get my calipers on this part).
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Old 06-29-2012, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mt. Versuvius View Post
onewizard,
The outside diameter is 104 mm, the inside diameter is 42 mm, the thickness of the unit at the copper windings (there's actually sort of a shroud at the end of each winding, which stands a little proud of the copper wiring) is 27 mm, and the thickness of the centre of the stator where it bolts to the cover is approximately 21 mm (I can't actually get my calipers on this part).
Thanks for the info, I need to ask you what you intend to do with the old stator?

One Canadian source I am looking at is http://www.rmstator.com/ Looks like they took the info I sent them and investigated further, because they now list the Versys , June 18 they had no listing for it.

I have been in touch with RM mid June, just went to their site today, they now list the Versys

http://www.rmstator.com/en/KLE650-Ve...RM01041-1.aspx

Last edited by onewizard; 06-30-2012 at 10:52 AM.
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Old 06-29-2012, 10:54 PM
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So now that RM Stator lists the Versys, I intend to call next week and verify this, might just buy one and have it at home, already have the gasket for the cover.
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Old 06-30-2012, 03:37 AM
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Old 10-05-2013, 09:52 AM
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Ok, I know this is an old thread, but curious of any result in this problem... I am currently dealing with the exact same thing, down to every detail.... Failed headlight, starter clunk when turning the bike off, etc. My stator failed in November of last year, which was proceeded by a headlight failure.... I replaced the stator, and the r/r . Now, Tuesday afternoon, I pulled up behind a car at a stop light, and noticed my headlight wasn't working. Got home and started running some tests... The stator shows passing on everything except the coil/ohm test, which my tester doesn't read below .4 ohms, and the manual gives a .0125-.25 service limit.... I am assuming it is still good since the wattage reading at 4000rpm's is dead on, and not showing any readings on the dead short test.... The r/r is not reading as it should in the test, but the old one I took off the first time around is... I tried it for testing purposes, but still only getting 12.2 volts at the battery around 4000rpm's wich is way low... Battery is good... Will hold a continuous 12.6 volts when not running.... I am lost here... I am afraid that whatever caused the first failure is at it again, and I need to figure out what is going on....
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