Another valve check/adjust thread - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-25-2012, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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Another valve check/adjust thread

Been lurking for some time now and, have read the many posts on valve check/adjust intervals. I've had my 2011 for ten months and have over 20,000 miles on her now. I recently called my local dealership with whom I have a very good relationship with and asked the service manager about this topic. He checked his service manual and bulletins regarding the Versys for me. Final word......his information shows a 26,200 mile interval for valve check / adjust. Just my .02 worth on the topic.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-25-2012, 09:28 AM
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Not much of a 'valve check/adjust' thread... If you read all the relating posts, why haven't you checked yours to see how many exhaust valve clearances may be and and have been under spec yet??
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-26-2012, 12:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kc4sox View Post
Been lurking for some time now and, have read the many posts on valve check/adjust intervals. I've had my 2011 for ten months and have over 20,000 miles on her now. I recently called my local dealership with whom I have a very good relationship with and asked the service manager about this topic. He checked his service manual and bulletins regarding the Versys for me. Final word......his information shows a 26,200 mile interval for valve check / adjust. Just my .02 worth on the topic.
Yup. It's YOUR bike, so do whatever "floats your boat", but several of us who've checked valves PRIOR to 26,200 miles have discovered 'tight' valves.


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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-26-2012, 08:50 PM
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Isn't a sympton of tight valves a bike that doesn't fire up easily?

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-27-2012, 12:27 AM
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I actually just did mine today, to my surprise it was easier then I thought.

I put 15k on mine since a year ago when I bought it, and decided that I didnt care if the manual was right or not, its just a check and if nothing is out of spec then you dont have to do anything. Turns out, nothing was out of spec.

Thanks super posters, you know who you are, for going into such depth on topics. It makes it so much easier for me to just USE THE SEARCH and read about things rather then just start a new thread about something that has already been discussed at length.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-20-2012, 12:25 AM
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Mine were tight on my 09 at 8k miles had 5 tight ones.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-22-2012, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twowheeladdict View Post
Isn't a sympton of tight valves a bike that doesn't fire up easily?
That's what I have been told. My understanding is that is the ONLY symptom (other than perhaps a little loss of top-end HP, which is pretty much unnoticeable). But that really only works on dirt bikes or kick-start bikes. With an electric start bike, you might not even notice the hard (er) starting and it will run great right up until you burn a valve.

Having said that...took my bike in yesterday for its first ever valve adjustment...odo reads 29,974 miles. Was firing right up and running like (better than?) the day I rode it home from the dealership. I told the mechanic to write down where the valves were at, so I will report back in this thread or another (30,000 mile report) the findings. My gut feeling? A few tight ones but nothing too drastic. If Kawi puts 26,000 mile intervals in the owner's manual, that says a lot to me. That's a pretty long interval (does anyone know of another motorcycle currently made that has a longer one? Most are half that or less!), so they must be REAL confident in the valve train staying in spec for long periods. Will be interesting to see....

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-22-2012, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by BAMF View Post

I put 15k on mine since a year ago when I bought it, and decided that I didnt care if the manual was right or not, its just a check and if nothing is out of spec then you dont have to do anything. Turns out, nothing was out of spec.
Quote:
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Mine were tight on my 09 at 8k miles had 5 tight ones.

Todd

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-23-2012, 03:03 PM
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I plan on doing mine. I've done this previously on an engine that used adjustment screws instead of shims. Are shims harder to do? Do I first need to purchase a shim kit to have these on hand when I do it?

For the people who have not seen the link you can download the Versys Service manual from this site, see sticky post in the tech. section for the link.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-26-2012, 12:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twowheels View Post
I plan on doing mine. I've done this previously on an engine that used adjustment screws instead of shims. Are shims harder to do? Do I first need to purchase a shim kit to have these on hand when I do it?

For the people who have not seen the link you can download the Versys Service manual from this site, see sticky post in the tech. section for the link.
Use "SEARCH" - several of us have 'ground-down' our shims to fit. I believe Invader was first to suggest this.

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-15-2012, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twowheels View Post
I plan on doing mine. I've done this previously on an engine that used adjustment screws instead of shims. Are shims harder to do? Do I first need to purchase a shim kit to have these on hand when I do it?
They are. And these are shim under bucket, which are harder than the shim over bucket type--the cams have to come out with ours. With the other kind I've done it with the cams in place--not certain all of them can be done that way.

As far as getting shims, yeah you could get a shim kit in advance. The mechanic who did mine has an assortment, which solved that problem. For myself I'm almost certain the local Kaw dealer does not carry shims for sale. In contrast I know the local Yamaha dealer does. IIRC we can use some Suzuki shims as well, and I would have checked the Suzuki dealer too before launching on this project. Having the bike down waiting for common little parts would be annoying.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-15-2012, 09:25 PM
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I thinned and switched some shims around, to set all my inlet valve clearances at 0.18 mm, and exhausts at 0.26 mm near middle of spec range. I used wet fine emery cloth on a flat wood surface to thin some of my original shims.

If you're not up to the task, you can get 7.48 mm diameter shims (same as Versys) in 0.025 mm increments (instead of only 0.050 mm increments) in 2.50 mm to 3.50 mm thicknesses.

Suzuki 2004-2005 RM-Z250 shims $8.47
Kawasaki 2006-2011 KX-250F shims $8.96
(Versys shims 0.050 mm increments $11.78)

Shim ------- Suzuki # ----- Kawasaki #

2.800mm - K9218-00179 - 92180-0179
2.825mm - K9218-00180 - 92180-0180
2.850mm - K9218-00181 - 92180-0181
2.875mm - K9218-00182 - 92180-0182
2.900mm - K9218-00183 - 92180-0183
2.925mm - K9218-00184 - 92180-0184
2.950mm - K9218-00185 - 92180-0185
2.975mm - K9218-00186 - 92180-0186
3.000mm - K9218-00187 - 92180-0187
3.025mm - K9218-00188 - 92180-0188
3.050mm - K9218-00189 - 92180-0189
3.075mm - K9218-00190 - 92180-0190
3.100mm - K9218-00191 - 92180-0191

Last edited by invader; 09-16-2012 at 12:58 AM.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-15-2012, 10:35 PM
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Hot cams 7.48mm shim kits are about $70 on e-bay (if you don't want to thin them). That way you don't need to tear it apart, do the math, and wait for parts. The kit is only in .05 increments though.

Have a mic on hand, as the stockers aren't marked.

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-16-2012, 12:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by invader View Post
I thinned and switched some shims around, to set all my inlet valves' clearances at 0.18 mm, and exhausts at 0.26 mm near middle of spec range. I used wet fine emery cloth on a flat wood surface to thin some of my original shims....
So did I.

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