I want to ride my Versys, but... - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-09-2012, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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I want to ride my Versys, but...

All,

After literally years of hemming and hawing over Vstrom vs. Versys vs. SV650 vs. fill in the blank; I finally pulled the trigger last week on a lightly used 2011. As we were wrapping up the deal, the PO - who I truly believe was trying to be helpful (not hiding something) - said "watch the rear tire, it seems to lose air a little faster than the front." Long story short, it went from 36 psi Wed at noon to 19 psi by Thur AM when I was hoping to ride it to work. Over the weekend while procuring stands - which helped me to find the obligatory nail - and subsequent tire, I went over all the fasteners, cables, etc. i should mention that I didn't work under the tank, and the only connector I touched was the rear brake light which needed adjusting. I fired it up once and noticed that it wasn't idling smoothly and the FI light was on. Shut it down, turned key off. Made sure I wasn't causing any problems and turned the key on - normal FI check. However, since then the starter will turn over healthily but the bike will not fire. This after firing up immediately several times cold on Wed when I bought it. The bike was a bit low on gas (one bar but not flashing) so I did add a gallon for good measure - no joy. I have to think something jiggled loose or something on the trailer ride home (30 miles). Besides the normal stuff (is there fuel, air, spark) any bright ideas on things to check? Since it's still under warranty I'm not opposed to taking it to the shop but don't want to go through all that and then have them say "the umptyfrazzle connector was unplugged". Bottom line is that I'd like to check all of the stupidly simple stuff before taking it in.

Thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-09-2012, 08:18 PM
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Just gonna toss some out there to be sure, not trying to insult intelligence:
-not in gear?
-kickstand up (doesn't need to be normally but there's the sensor which might be faulty)
-kill switch?

weird something being off on a 2011 already... i'm betting you've either got a faulty sensor keeping it from firing or you've got bad gas/ clogged line.. i'm no expert though

MAYBE a spark plug? shouldn't have gone that early in a bikes life but possibility...

Double check to make sure the kill switch is in the correct position... just last week i tried turning mine over but it wouldnt fire... i had a mini crisis then noticed my kill switch was engaged, must have bumped it-fired right up.

Good luck and keep us posted!

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-09-2012, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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Don't worry about insulting me! Thanks for the input. I need to double check all of the various safety switches - maybe something came loose. However, I did do all of the above - put it in neutral, pulled the clutch in, tranny in neutral, side stand up - no joy. I did check the kill switch after my own mini-crisis - I must have bumped it either putting the bike on or off the trailer. But... Will check again. In any event, it didn't start after putting the kill switch back to start.

Best part of all is that I don't have time to do anything with it until Sunday, which for you single guys without kids is Mother's Day (so don't forget your mom!), so it will be another weekend gone before I get a chance to look it over. Aye
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-09-2012, 11:15 PM
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The FI lamp is trying to tell you where to look for the problem. Trouble code(s) is stored in memory and easily retrievable, but you may as well let the dealer check for it.
Is it entirely stock? Any accessories at all installed on it?
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-09-2012, 11:25 PM Thread Starter
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Invader, you are right. I was hoping it was just an anomaly or something but maybe it's actually flagging something serious. I know on other bikes there are FI issues that once the light comes on you need to ride to the dealer or get ready to trailer it because it won't start again until fixed/cleared - true on our bikes? Out of curiosity, can we jumper the dealer plug to at least get the general issue codes?
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-09-2012, 11:27 PM
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It may still be rideable to get to the dealer or where it can be checked and repaired... It all depends on the problem.

The FI lamp has 3 modes of operation; User Mode, Diagnostic Mode 1, and Diagnostic Mode 2.

USER MODE

At KEY ON the ECU completes a self test and then checks sensors and actuators. During this time the FI light will be lit. While the FI light is ON you will hear the fuel pump run and the sub-throttle servos move. The tachometer needle swings full scale and back. At the end of the testing (about 3 seconds), the oil pressure light will come on indicating a normal KEY ON, ENGINE OFF event.

If the ECU detects any actuator feedback or sensor input OUT OF RANGE, the FI light will be set ON. It should be noted that the FI light can be set to a false ON state by radio interference, though in practice it would take a very strong local signal to do so. The ECU continues to monitor all sensors as long as the key is ON. If any signal is detected as OUT OF RANGE, the FI light is set ON. The FI light will remain lit as long as the defect is present.

One of two things will happen when the FI light is ON; either the ECU will go into LIMP mode or the ECU will prevent fuel injection, ignition, and/or starter circuit operation until the fault is cleared. The severity of the fault will determine which of the two will happen. For instance, if the ECU cannot detect crank position, it will prevent engine operation altogether. On the other hand, if the ECU cannot determine Intake Air Temperature, it will initiate LIMP mode (Kawasaki calls it FAIL-SAFE mode), assume an IAT temperature of 40C (104F), and allow the engine to operate at that parameter.

The FI light will go OFF after repair or if the sensor comes back into range for any reason. The ECU will resume normal operation. However, the event is memorized.

The FI light will blink continuously to indicate the vehicle-down sensor is active. When detected, the ECU will shut-off the fuel pump, fuel injectors, starter and ignition. The FI light will remain flashing and the motorcycle will not start until the vehicle-down sensor goes inactive and the ECU is reset by cycling the key OFF.

ON at KEY ON, then OFF
OFF = normal operation
ON = fault detected
BLINK = vehicle down

DIAGNOSTIC MODE 1

Under the seat, along the right sub-frame rail is an orange/black wire with a bullet connector. This is the self-diagnosis terminal. In order to read out the CURRENT Service Codes, ground that wire with the KEY ON. The FI light will begin to flash codes. There will be a 5 second delay and then the codes begin. The first flash is always a LONG (1 sec) followed by either LONG or SHORT (0.5 sec) flashes. LONG flashes indicate TENS and short flashes ONES. One LONG followed by two SHORT = 12. Two LONG, one SHORT = 21. Three LONG, two short = 32, etc. There is an interval of 1.5 seconds between TENS and ONES. There is a 3 second
interval between codes.

Self-diagnostic terminal: Orange/black wire with a bullet connector. Ground to battery's negative terminal.

Note: For multiple codes, the codes will readout from lowest numerical value to highest. Low battery voltage will cause the light to flash slowly or not at all.

DIAGNOSTIC MODE 2

To recover codes set in memory; KEY ON, touch the self-diagnosis terminal rapidly to ground more than 5 times within 2 seconds. The lead must remain grounded (after 5 groundings) for the remainder of the diagnostic session. The codes will readout exactly as in MODE 1.

CODE Malfunction

11_______ Main throttle sensor
12_______ Inlet air pressure sensor
13_______ Inlet air temperature sensor
14_______ Water temperature sensor
21_______ Crankshaft sensor
24 & 25___Speed sensor (24 then 25, repeatedly)
31_______Vehicle-down sensor
32_______Subthrottle sensor
33_______Oxygen sensor inactive (Europe)
51_______Ignition Coil #1
52_______Ignition Coil #2
56_______Radiator Fan Relay
62_______Subthrottle valve actuator (sensor in range but not responding)
64_______Air switching valve
67_______Oxygen sensor heater (Europe)
94_______Oxygen sensor out-of-range

To clear codes from the ECU, enter MODE 2, pull the clutch in for more than 5 seconds.

Things the ECU cannot detect:

FI light
Fuel Pump
Fuel Pump Relay
DFI Main Relay
ECU Power and Ground
Fuel Injectors

Last edited by invader; 05-09-2012 at 11:40 PM.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-10-2012, 06:31 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Invader. At least I will be able to see what's going on and up make the call on trailering or driving to the dealer if necessary.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-10-2012, 12:48 PM
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Battery? weak battery sucks
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-10-2012, 01:05 PM
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If it is turning over then all of the saftys are in working order. So its not something stupid.

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-10-2012, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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Tommyt37 - I did not measure the voltage but the battery didn't take very long to top off on the charger and the bike turns over strong; I think it's in good shape.

HAWKSHOT99 - yeah, it turns over fine. Your post reinforces Invader's I think - ECU may be preventing start sequence.

So... Here's a follow up question. Suppose the ECU is preventing start. I could check Mode 1 for a fault, enter Mode 2 to check faults in memory, and potentially clear the faults with the clutch lever. IF it was a spurious input, the fault would not return and the bike would be rideable. If for some reason the ECU sees the same fault, I'm right back to where I started. Question is "since it's under warranty am I better off taking it into the dealer and let them note, clear, and potentially fix the problem rather than troubleshooting on my own?" I guess the real question is "what is the risk of causing damage to the bike by clearing the faults and seeing if it works?" Seems like except for the hassle of renting a trailer or having a buffoon work on the bike at the dealer, the downside is pretty low if I drop it off with them.
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-10-2012, 09:35 PM
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Personally if it was my 08', I would try it myself since I am not on a warranty. If I had your bike, it would be in the trailer and at the dealer tomorrow. Do you have a friend with a trailer/truck rather than renting? I would be lost without my truck/trailers in life.

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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-10-2012, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
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HAWK - I hear you - I grew up in farm country. Every time I find myself without a truck I kick myself for not buying another. That being said, I work about two blocks from a fairly large U-haul location and they usually have motorcycle trailers ($15). Have a good friend with a trailer but he lives 20 miles away so by the time you pick it up and return it, you've spent 40 min on the road and $10 on gas... I think I will pick one up on my way home from work Monday and drop it off Tuesday AM.
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-10-2012, 11:38 PM
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Start by retrieving the fault code set in memory. We can then assess and confirm the problem at hand... No need to clear the memory. It doesn't matter if you do clear it. If the problem is not resolved, it will still manifest itself as it has until now, and it will also register the fault code again.
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-11-2012, 08:39 AM
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I would quickly do a check under the rear passenger seat where a bunch of connectors and ECU is. Maybe some of the sockets came loose. It found a loose connector in my ex-250 Ninja at the CDi, and I was fortunate to have found it early.

Have you check your fuses near the battery?

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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-11-2012, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
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Invader - My thought on clearing it was that if it happened to be a one time thing, the ECU would no longer inhibit start. If there is a problem, as you said, it would register again anyway.

2daMax - I did look at the connectors I could see but plan to check them again.
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-11-2012, 10:48 AM
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Check to see if the fuel hose is still connected at the bottom of the gas tank. If the PO took off the tank -- to clean the air filter, for example -- he might not have snapped that hose properly into place. And if it jiggled loose on a trailer, you might not see or smell the results.

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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-11-2012, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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Will do Holden, thanks.
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-13-2012, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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All, thanks much. I was gone this week and returned last night. Good news - the bike is running! Now, the winner of this contest is.... who the heck knows??? I haven't had a chance to tinker (Mother's Day and all) but I was in the garage and thought "what the heck, I'll give it a try". Bike fired right up, no problem. Didn't even hesitate. No lights, no drama. I will still try to get the codes from memory (assuming I'll have to enter mode II since the FI light is out) and I'll let you know.

Anyway, really appreciate all the input and help.
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-13-2012, 07:00 PM
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Glad to hear it's running now... might have just been a clogged injector from a bad batch of gas... who knows... good idea to try n get the codes though, if its a deeper problem u dont wanna let it get worse!

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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-15-2012, 12:31 AM Thread Starter
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Ok - only one code in Mode I or Mode II - 62 - subthrottle valve actuator malfunction. Is it possible the valves were jostled out of position during transit which threw a code on the first start attempt resulting in an FI light? Like I said yesterday, bike seems to run fine now. I suppose since it's under warranty it's still worth taking to the dealer to have them check it out - if for nothing else than to get it on record in case something comes up later.
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