what you think of my sprocket. - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-09-2012, 04:25 AM Thread Starter
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what you think of my sprocket.

My lovely wife took my versys out for a ride today in prep for a day ride we are doing next week as she has not ridden much lately and wanted to make sure she was happy with the bike.

When i got back, put the bike up on rear stand to cleaned and lubed the chain and noticed the chain had got real tight and made a noise at the same spot every complete revolution. Put the 44t rear sprocket on at 15,000km and bike is at 27,000km now and here is some photos of the rear 44t as i have put the stock 46 back on as it looks better but the chain is making more noise and tightens up more.



The front oem sprocket looks okay, the chain is on the 2nd last adjustment notch with the 44t so is the problem i have a stuffed chain?
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-09-2012, 04:41 AM
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Those teeth look worn to me, but I'm not an expert for these things.
At 27k maybe both sprockets and chain are due for a change.

My (OEM) set is at 21k and there is slight wear on the front sprocket.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-09-2012, 04:45 AM Thread Starter
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That rear sprocket has only done 12,000km but maybe the wearing chain has worn it out as some of the teeth look like they are chipped.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-09-2012, 05:00 AM
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You need to replace your chain and both sprockets.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-09-2012, 05:05 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by invader View Post
You need to replace your chain and both sprockets.
Was in the bike shop a week ago to get a price on chain/sprockets but thought since we are heading into colder weather and riding two bikes i would get away with it to spring. I thought by putting the oem 46 t back on it would run better but that made it worse than the more worn sprocket, got 4 days to get bike ready for her.

Last edited by kiwi 41; 04-09-2012 at 04:29 PM.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-09-2012, 05:47 AM
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If you dident change the chain last time, then it will wear the sprocket very fast. You allways change both sprocket and the chain at the same time.
Lets say you only had change the chain, then the sprockets had wearn the chain very fast.
Sorry fore my english hope you understand


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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-09-2012, 06:34 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kawasakifreak View Post
If you dident change the chain last time, then it will wear the sprocket very fast. You allways change both sprocket and the chain at the same time.
Lets say you only had change the chain, then the sprockets had wearn the chain very fast.
Sorry fore my english hope you understand
Understand your english, normally i do change sprockets/chain as complete set but at 15,000 decided to go with 44t as sprokets are not that expensive but chains are, since it has been a public holiday here monday , easter monday will be into bike shop first thing tue morn to order new set.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-09-2012, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kawasakifreak View Post
If you didn't change the chain last time, then it will wear the sprocket very fast. You always change both sprocket and the chain at the same time.

Sorry for my poor English, hope you understand
+1
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-09-2012, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by invader View Post
You need to replace your chain and both sprockets.
+1

I can't imagine how there could be any other conclusion or discussion. Just replace everything and be on your merry way.

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-09-2012, 11:44 AM
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Another thought. Make sure you have your axle bolt torqued down properly. If it isn't, your chain will tighten as you ride and prematurely wear your chain and sprockets. Can't be good for the countershaft either.

CJ
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-09-2012, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frisco View Post
Another thought. Make sure you have your axle bolt torqued down properly. If it isn't, your chain will tighten as you ride and prematurely wear your chain and sprockets. Can't be good for the countershaft either...CJ
Of course you should torque your axle properly, but IF you hadn't, how would that cause your chain to TIGHTEN? To TIGHTEN the axle has to move BACK, away from the direction that the chain-pull would act on it. IF anything - it should tend to LOOSEN your chain, but to do that your chain adjusting bolts would SOMEHOW have to turn back in.... In any event, everything properly snugged down is the way to go, AFTER properly tensioning the chain.

Ed
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-09-2012, 01:16 PM
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I like to set chain tension (looser is better than tighter), then cinch the axle nut, then run the adjust bolt tight up to the axle stop and then lock it. That way there can be no play between the axle stop and adjust bolt so your axle can't slip a tiny bit.

The kotter is a PITA but cheap insurance I guess. Every other bike I've had has a nyloc or similar stop nut. It's doesn't have to be gorrila tight, just snug it up to 40-50lbs and slip the key in. It doesn't have to be bent to all kind of contortions either, just tap over the two legs together so it can't pop out. That way it's easy to remove next time. I've never seen an axle nut come loose. Ever. Caliper bolts yes, they should be blue loctited.

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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-09-2012, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
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Compete set is ordered and should be at shop tommorow, i do torque the axle nut to correct torque so no problems there, 80 ftlbs.

The whole thing caught me off guard how quickly chain went downhill.

Last edited by kiwi 41; 04-12-2012 at 01:08 PM.
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-11-2012, 11:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
Of course you should torque your axle properly, but IF you hadn't, how would that cause your chain to TIGHTEN? To TIGHTEN the axle has to move BACK, away from the direction that the chain-pull would act on it. IF anything - it should tend to LOOSEN your chain, but to do that your chain adjusting bolts would SOMEHOW have to turn back in.... In any event, everything properly snugged down is the way to go, AFTER properly tensioning the chain.
The weight of the rider/bike along with the suspension action forcing the rear wheel back is greater than the engine/chain pulling the wheel forward.

CJ
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-12-2012, 11:40 AM
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The weight of the rider/bike along with the suspension action forcing the rear wheel back is greater than the engine/chain pulling the wheel forward.

CJ
I have trouble agreeing with you: there are roughly 62 horsepower PULLING on the chain. Do you really believe that a rider's weight plus the Vs weight (450 pounds) would overcome 62 HP? The exact definition of one horsepower is 33000 lb.ft./minute of work. So 62 HP is 2,046,000 lb.ft./minute, or 34,100 in a second. I'm not a calculus 'whizz' so this is just simple division, so over 1/10 of a second that still comes to 3,410 lb.ft. EVEN if you weigh 550 pounds, making you AND the V 1,000 even, I can't see how that equates....

Ed
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 10:30 PM
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The chain tension transferred from the power delivery of the crank will be a lot stronger and would pull the wheel to the front; a loose chain will result if the axle nut is not tightened enough and the adjusting bolts are missing.

Agree with Phil, chain failure is the culprit in the extraordinary wear on the sprocket. What kind of lube and frequency of lube?

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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2daMax View Post
.

Agree with Phil, chain failure is the culprit in the extraordinary wear on the sprocket. What kind of lube and frequency of lube?
Cleaned with kero and used this chain wax but was pretty slack in early days as when i went for a 2600km ride a couple of years ago the chain did not get done to we returned home. Try to have chain waxed before every big day ride now or at least no more than the 600km recomendation
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 11:38 PM
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With a loose rear axle, chain would tend to tighten under engine braking and when using rear brake. It could also go ****-eyed and wobble around.
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-18-2012, 08:18 PM
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ITS TOAST, REPLACE ALL
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-18-2012, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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ITS TOAST, REPLACE ALL
All done cheers
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