Funky Idling at Sea Level - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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Funky Idling at Sea Level

Just finished my ride to San Diego (0 feet!) from Flagstaff (7,000 feet!). The bike performed very well the entire trip. For one leg of my journey, I had a passenger and a heavy backpack but was still able to cruise up the steep mountain grades in 6th gear at 75 MPH. However, I started noticing a slightly erratic idle when I was in El Centro (also sea level). With the bike warmed up, the needle bops up and down a little bit and doesn't hold steady like it used to. I can also hear it acting a little different in regards to the RPM. I tried messing with the idle adjuster, but that didn't help. Also, it could be imagination, but it seems that when I come to a stop in 1st, the engine starts bogging down earlier and more than usual.

I remember reading in the manual that no adjustments were needed for elevation. The bike was first run at 7,000 feet and has done most of its 2500 miles there. Should I try and reset the ECU maybe by pulling a battery cable for a while?

Also, as a side question: Do the fuel injectors make a distinct constant clicking sound? With my helmet turned the right way, I hear that noise. Just the injectors?

2012 Kawasaki Versys 650 - 20,500 miles
2000 Volvo V70XC 2.4T - 258,000 miles
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 01:42 PM
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What mileage are you at? Were the throttle bodies ever vacuum synchronized (balanced), and are you on original spark plugs? Were your valve clearances checked?

Yes, the injectors' clicking can be heard.

Last edited by invader; 03-12-2012 at 01:48 PM.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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Bike has just over 2,500 miles (got it new in January). No work has been done on it with the exception of oil changes.

2012 Kawasaki Versys 650 - 20,500 miles
2000 Volvo V70XC 2.4T - 258,000 miles
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 02:07 PM
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Hmmm... What type of gasoline was in it? What were the meteorological conditions like? Is your idle speed set to 1300 rpm?

Last edited by invader; 03-12-2012 at 02:09 PM.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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I know this will sound strange:

Left Flagstaff with full tank of 91.
Put 91 in Phoenix (full tank).
Put 87 in Gila Bend (half tank).
Put 87 in San Diego (full tank).

I'm thinking of going up to 89 and seeing if anything changes. I used only Shell/Chevron, so it wasn't just Joe Schmo's gas station with questionable fuel.

2012 Kawasaki Versys 650 - 20,500 miles
2000 Volvo V70XC 2.4T - 258,000 miles
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 02:18 PM
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Is your idle speed set to 1300 rpm ? At sea level, octane level requirement is higher, especially when cooler out and/or when atmospheric pressure is higher.

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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I was researching through other threads and saw the comments about idle speed. I have it set to what I think is about 1300. Just a hair below the mark for 1500.

It's been pretty cool here and there is a storm heading our way.

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 02:56 PM
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Oh yeah, yours is a California model. Your main throttle sensor was likely set clockwise of its green reference mark, resulting in an overly lean air/fuel mixture, particularly from idle to 2800 rpm. Idle is unstable because of a lack of fuel. Higher octane fuel may alleviate such effects only marginally.

Try setting it at just a hair counterclockwise from perfectly aligned with its green reference mark, then readjust idle speed... If your cold fast idle is then too high, you can lower it by rotating subthrottle sensor counterclockwise as well just a bit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gti20vturbo View Post
Invader, I finally decided to take a look at the post to see if it would help me resolve some of the issues I have had with my 09. I had decel "chugging" and a massive flat spot off idle that really had me starting to hate this bike.

I checked my TPS in reference to the paint marks and my California model was actually set clockwise of the paint mark (instead of dead on like I would expect). I loosened up the screw and rotated it counterclockwise with its final location similar to yours. I fired up the bike and the cold idle (outside air temp 80f) was about 1800 rpm. Once it warmed up the idle was slightly low at 750 rpm so I turned that up a little.

Anyway its as if this is a whole new motorcycle. All my issues are pretty much gone and that dreaded high freq buzz seems to be minimized as well. Going for a longer ride this afternoon to double check but this minute adjustment seems to make a HUGE difference. THANKS!
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ad.php?t=17276

Last edited by invader; 03-12-2012 at 03:17 PM.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 03:14 PM
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Look at the main (grey) throttle sensor's green alignment mark on its front from near your front left flasher, and note how it ligns up. 1st pic shows the amount of counterclockwise rotation on the grey main throttle sensor at its new position, by the green factory setting line offset where the sensor sits on its mount, to adjust its output voltage within spec. Black subthrottle sensor sits just above it:



Loosen sensor screw with T25 Torx tool. Rotate sensor counterclockwise by about half a millimeter as seen on pic. Adjust, then tighten Torx screw.

Main throttle sensor Torx screw:



Fast idle may then be higher. You can rotate subthrottle sensor (black, just above main throttle sensor) also counterclockwise with T25 Torx screw to reduce cold fast-idle rpm. I rotated mine to its maximum counterclockwise position, to which it was already near. Subthrottle sensor's new position:

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! Is this to be done with the engine on or off?

gti20vturbo's problem sounds exactly like mine!

2012 Kawasaki Versys 650 - 20,500 miles
2000 Volvo V70XC 2.4T - 258,000 miles

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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 03:42 PM
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Do it with engine OFF.
You just need a Torx T25 tool... Do you already have one?
Is the California smog charcoal canister contraption on the left in the way, and do you have to remove it for access to the sensors? Can you already see if the main throttle sensor is set to clockwise of green reference mark, like gti20vturbo's?

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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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I did have to unbolt the charcoal canister thing as it was in the way. I haven't made the adjustment yet, but whoever made the green marks on my sensor was sloppy. It's kind of hard to tell where they're at, but I would say the sensor is either lined up or slightly clockwise.
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2012 Kawasaki Versys 650 - 20,500 miles
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 04:11 PM
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Yeah, it's hard to get a good pic of it with the camera low enough to be aligned to see it properly. Your camera was even a bit higher than mine... California models may now have their original reference mark aligned with their specific lean setting. gti20vturbo's is a 2009.
So try setting it about 1mm counterclockwise of its original positiion at green reference mark for now and see how she runs. You can then decide on any further minute tweaks to it from there.

Last edited by invader; 03-12-2012 at 04:19 PM.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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DUDE! Whatever that did, it worked!

-Bike no longer wants to die coming to a stop in 1st.
-Hot idle is exactly where I tell it to be.
-This thing was powerful before, but now it's POWERFUL in the low-mid revs.

Are there any downsides to this adjustment? I do a lot of mid-to-high RPM driving at 75-80 MPH. Will that sort of driving be affected? I just want to make sure this thing will last forever!

2012 Kawasaki Versys 650 - 20,500 miles
2000 Volvo V70XC 2.4T - 258,000 miles
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 04:41 PM
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It worked already? Well, I'll be damned.

Try to dial it in counterclockwise just enough to make it run well. Any more will have you burning a bit more fuel than needed.
Mid to high speed running will still be fine, and maybe a bit better.

It should run cooler at low speeds now, and your engine will last longer. Too lean is a bad thing.

Last edited by invader; 03-12-2012 at 04:45 PM.
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 04:59 PM
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In case you were wondering, your lean condition manifested itself after it was more thoroughly broken in once at 2500 miles. It now has better compression, higher vacuum levels and more need for fuel compared to when it was new.

Did you give it a good quick Motoman style break-in? Have you accelerated up to redline yet, and once in a while? Oil was already changed? Have you or are you switching to synthetic oil?
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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I had a varied break in. Since I got it with 0.1 miles on the odometer, it was all up to me! I rode very gently for the first 10 miles or so, then slowly upped the load. I never went above 6K RPM during the first couple hundred miles. Did a lot of engine braking and shifting through the gears. I've done a few redlines in 2nd and 3rd in the last 1000 miles.

Oil changes (miles):

150 - Shell Rotella T6 5W-40
1400 - Shell Rotella T6 5W-40
2000 - Amsoil MCF 10W-40

Amsoil will be my normal oil from now on. Thanks for the information, it's all very interesting. I'm relieved to know that I didn't break anything!

2012 Kawasaki Versys 650 - 20,500 miles
2000 Volvo V70XC 2.4T - 258,000 miles
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