Need help - Stripped Hex Screw on Bar End - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-10-2012, 07:29 AM Thread Starter
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Need help - Stripped Hex Screw on Bar End

I feel like a complete idiot. I stripped the stupid hex screw on my left bar end. Trying to remove it to install Barkbusters. It was super tight, but I with enough pressure I got it to turn at least 4 or 5 rotations until the thread gave out. Now its more of a circle .

After research, looks like it is because Kawasaki uses Red threadlocker..

Anyone have any experience on how I can resolve this? Now I have a wiggly bar end on the left side that I cant screw back in or out. I dont really have a lot of tools or experience in more complicated tools.

Is this something my local kawasaki dealer could help with?
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-10-2012, 07:43 AM
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I'd bet the dealer could get it out for you... not sure how much they'd charge though. You might want to ask initially, and hope they'd give you a kind of "good will" cheapo price or do it for free...

There are things you can buy at sears (and other places) for this kind of situation. I think they are called like "easy outs" or something like that. One option would be to talk to someone at sears or maybe a hardware store, explain the situation and they could recommend something.

probably whatever is used, that bolt will need to be replaced

Oh, and yeah, I've done this sort of thing before too. It can be avoided by using a allen head socket on your ratchet, I'm betting you were using an allen head key, and it's very hard to put pressure behind that as you turn, the way you can with a socket.

good luck.

Last edited by AzItLies; 02-10-2012 at 07:46 AM.
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-10-2012, 07:59 AM
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If you have enough of the bolt head exposed, get a hack saw or small grinder and cut a slot in the head so that you can use a flat screw driver. Or try and grab the head with a sharp new pair of channel lock pliers.
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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-10-2012, 08:08 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by blipco View Post
If you have enough of the bolt head exposed, get a hack saw or small grinder and cut a slot in the head so that you can use a flat screw driver..
This is a possibility, but I dont really have those tools yet. Also, the Bar end is still in the way of getting a grinder or saw in there to cut a channel.


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Originally Posted by blipco View Post
Or try and grab the head with a sharp new pair of channel lock pliers.
The bolt is still in the bar end, so its not really "sticking out" so I can grab it. -- I was thinking of trying to get pliers on the inside of the bolt if possible, but not sure if that would be frowned upon to grab it on the shaft of the bolt and not on the head.. although I still dont think there would be enough room


I appreciate the ideas though!
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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-10-2012, 08:20 AM
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Try to get hold of an impact driver.

As the Guys mention cut a slot to get something to hold on to the driver head.
Position the impact driver to open and whack a good one.
The bolt should twist open.



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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-10-2012, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by stlee29 View Post
Try to get hold of an impact driver.

As the Guys mention cut a slot to get something to hold on to the driver head.
Position the impact driver to open and whack a good one.
The bolt should twist open.



Good Luck.
Thats! what I was trying to think of the name of. Very handy to have around... remember pricing them at Sears and iirc they were like 50 bucks. but as you say, give it a whack and it should come right out.

they have tips that dig into the metal when you hammer it, and at the same time it turns counter clockwise. Made specifically for this type of situation.
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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-10-2012, 08:43 AM
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Spray some penetrating oil around the bolthead and along the gap between the barend and bar trying to get to the threads. Let it sit for a bit and than tap lightly with a rubber hammer or piece of wood. Than take the next size up allen key and hammer it into the rounded out screw head and try to turn it out. If it breaks off the bar end will come off and you should be able to grip the exposed screw with vise grips and twist it out and than replace with a new screw.

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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-10-2012, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by AzItLies View Post
Thats! what I was trying to think of the name of. Very handy to have around... remember pricing them at Sears and iirc they were like 50 bucks. but as you say, give it a whack and it should come right out.

they have tips that dig into the metal when you hammer it, and at the same time it turns counter clockwise. Made specifically for this type of situation.
Ok so I had to youtube it to figure out what it does because I never used one. Interesting! However -- considering I really cant get in there with a cutting tool to make a notch, is there a specific tip I can get that will work somehow?

Also, will it work even though it has the threadlocker on it?
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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-10-2012, 08:56 AM
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Penetrating oil is a good idea. Be careful at this point and don't rush. Right now it's a PITA but if you shear the bolt off at the nut it will get much worse (ie, this is when you go out and buy the right tools as opposed to what you have in the kitchen draw).
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-10-2012, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by naudan View Post
Ok so I had to youtube it to figure out what it does because I never used one. Interesting! However -- considering I really cant get in there with a cutting tool to make a notch, is there a specific tip I can get that will work somehow?

Also, will it work even though it has the threadlocker on it?
Not positive of which tips are available, just ask and probably one that comes with it should do the trick.

I'd bet for sure it would work even with thread locker, you'll only know when you try though
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post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-10-2012, 09:20 AM
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The best way is to use a drill bit slightly smaller than the bolt, drill it out, drive an "easy out" in it and back it out. Cutting a slot in the end and using a flat tip screwdriver to get it out is a waste of time. If it won't come out with a hex wrench a flat tip screwdriver doesn't have a chance. Also, when it is "galled" like that, all the lube in the world won't help.

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Last edited by dallasdon; 02-10-2012 at 09:25 AM.
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post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-10-2012, 09:47 AM
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I think I'd buy a new barend weight and cut the old one with a hacksaw so that the bolt head is exposed. That way a vise grip could be used to grip the outside of the socket head cap screw. Penetrating oil, WD40, slots, easy-outs, whatever else ain't gonna do much against red thread-locker.

Hacksaw, bar end weight, and a vise grip are much cheaper than having somebody else do it if nothing else works.

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post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-10-2012, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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I appreciate all the ideas. I guess there isn't 1 method. The impact wrench seemed like a decent idea, but I dont know what tip could be used to improve the situation.

Maybe the best bet is to ask the dealer if they can help out on this, I have to installl new bar ends for the barkbusters anyway. Not to mention I still have the right bar end to get off also ..

Thought these barkbusters were an "easy" install
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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-10-2012, 11:25 AM
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you can try a screw extractor:

http://homerepair.about.com/od/inter..._extractor.htm

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post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-10-2012, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dallasdon View Post
The best way is to use a drill bit slightly smaller than the bolt, drill it out, drive an "easy out" in it and back it out. Cutting a slot in the end and using a flat tip screwdriver to get it out is a waste of time. If it won't come out with a hex wrench a flat tip screwdriver doesn't have a chance. Also, when it is "galled" like that, all the lube in the world won't help.
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post #16 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-10-2012, 01:11 PM
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If you don't already have the tools you would probalby be better off having a shop take care of it. You will spend more buying tools than paying somebody to do it.

The other side of that is once you buy the tools you can fix it next time because there will always be bolts that get stripped or break.

Sounds like a great time to just buy some new bars.

Last edited by kenr74; 02-10-2012 at 01:15 PM.
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post #17 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-10-2012, 01:29 PM
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Couple of suggestions
- Kawasaki sometimes use red Locktite on these screws. If you heat them first they will come out easier as it will melt the Locktite. A heat guns is perfect for this task. A propane torch will work too but you will need to be careful not to melt any plastic.
- I bought a kit several years ago to remove damaged screws and small bolts for about $20. It contains 5 bits of varying sizes. Each bit has a drill on one end and a correspondingly sized counter clockwise tap on the other. You drill a hole in the damaged screw or bolt head then insert the tap to get grip on it, and unscrew. The kit has saved my ass many, many times and has more than paid for itself - recommend.
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post #18 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-10-2012, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kenr74 View Post
If you don't already have the tools you would probalby be better off having a shop take care of it. You will spend more buying tools than paying somebody to do it.

The other side of that is once you buy the tools you can fix it next time because there will always be bolts that get stripped or break.

Sounds like a great time to just buy some new bars.
By "shop" do you mean motorcycle shop? And by "Buy new bars" do you mean new bar ends or new new handlebars?
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post #19 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-10-2012, 03:28 PM
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go to Home Depot and buy this:

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/3-pi...tor-set/918598

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post #20 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-10-2012, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by naudan View Post
By "shop" do you mean motorcycle shop? And by "Buy new bars" do you mean new bar ends or new new handlebars?
New handlebars. That might be the cheapest solution.$20-$100+ depending on what you want. It isn't hard to move the controlls to new bars. Good chance to get a different bend if you need it.

Removing the bolt isn't that hard but you will need a hammer, drill, drill bit, EZ out, some patience. If you had to buy all those tools for a one time job it might be worth having somebody else do it.

I would look for a low end auto mechanic to do the work if you need to. They would have all the tools and not charge a fortune to do it.



Where are you located? I know I have tools to do about anything and a bunch of stock bars I'd love to get rid of.

Last edited by kenr74; 02-10-2012 at 04:15 PM.
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