Rear running light problem - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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Rear running light problem

Hey everyone!

I've got a weird issue with my rear running lights (the LED tail running lights and the license plate light). Sometimes they work and sometimes they do not, however the rear brake light always works. Admittedly, electrical wiring and I don't have a long history, so I'm hoping someone with some more experience might have some suggestions.

Here's what I've tried/noticed:
1) All fuses are good (checked with multimeter as well as by sight ).
2) The license plate bulb is good (checked multiple times and know this from the "sometimes works, sometimes doesn't" phenomenon)
3) The ground connection toward the rear of the bike under the seat is clean, no corrosion (Didn't check wiring with multimeter though, so this could still be the problem?).
4) All connections for rear lights checked and no rubbing/shorting wires found.
5) Rear brake light works regardless of whether the other two are on or not.

Now, what's weird is there seems to be a connection between locking the forks of the bike and the lights ceasing to function. Is this an indication that my ignition switch is going bad/getting worn down? Or perhaps something else?

Appreciate any help you might be able to give!

Thanks!

Put the rubber on the road and leave it all behind.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 09:01 PM
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Check your wires leading from the ignition switch down to the left by the clutch cable clamp and over the frame... You'll need to remove fairing and fuel tank. How many miles on your '08?
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 09:18 PM
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from what you have described , the problem looks more toward the front-Ignition swish area than the back under-seat area.

Try cleaning your ignition switch with some electrical contact spray-IMHO.

keep posted.. &
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 09:23 PM
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Try to find the first socket fittings coming from the rear lamps. Disconnect both ends and visually check if the pins are ok. Some pins uses a little spring load to ensure good connections in a vibration prone environment.

My ex-250R Ninja signal lamp suffered from this intermittent problem. Traced it to the socket and saw that the spring loaded pin wasn't bend enough. Bend it a little more and no issues ever since.

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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Update: If the lights are off, I can get them to come back on by putting the key in the "Park position and then back to the on position.

If the lights were working and I turn the bike off and lock the forks, they will not be on if I start without first going to "Park"

This seems to work for now, but obviously not sure how long it will continue to work. This trick makes me think it's something to do with the ignition barrel, rather than perhaps any wiring...not certain though!

Quote:
Check your wires leading from the ignition switch down to the left by the clutch cable clamp and over the frame... You'll need to remove fairing and fuel tank. How many miles on your '08?
32,000 miles. We ride around the block a lot! Sounds like a great thing to check. Need to do a valve adjustment and air filter clean/replacement anyways! Probably won't get to check the wiring under the tank for a week or so. Some of my tools are in another city at the moment, preventing me from really having fun. I'll let ya know how things look weekend after next tho as they're getting returned on Wednesday!

Quote:
from what you have described , the problem looks more toward the front-Ignition swish area than the back under-seat area.

Try cleaning your ignition switch with some electrical contact spray-IMHO.

keep posted.. &
Fastoman, I sprayed it out pretty well earlier today, but was still having the same problem this evening. I'll let ya know if an overnight soak does the trick!


Quote:
Try to find the first socket fittings coming from the rear lamps. Disconnect both ends and visually check if the pins are ok. Some pins uses a little spring load to ensure good connections in a vibration prone environment.
2daMax, good suggestion! I did visually check the wiring to the sockets, but did not pull them apart to look at the pins. Will check these just in case!

Thanks guys! If you have any more suggestions based on my updates, send 'em my way! Like I said before, I'm still leaning towards something with the ignition barrel itself or maybe the wiring to/from the barrel, but haven't pinned it down yet!

Put the rubber on the road and leave it all behind.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 10:37 PM
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The ignition switch itself is possible. You wouldn't be the first one.
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