Rear Sprocket Change - Problem with Brake Caliper - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-28-2011, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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Rear Sprocket Change - Problem with Brake Caliper

Hello everyone!

I changed out my front and rear sprocket and chain this weekend and came across a slight design flaw/manufacturing issue and was curious if anyone else had the same problem.

Here's the deal:
I ordered a 114 link chain to go with my new 44T rear sprocket, but after putting everything on,taking a look at the tension, and doing some careful measuring with the calipers, I ended up taking a link out of the chain. I was already past the halfway adjustment mark for the rear tire and was worried about how much adjustment I'd need as the chain stretched.

Anyway, my measurements were all done with the brake caliper off. I calculated that the 113 link would have about the right tension with the adjusting screws all the way in. As reassembly proceeded, I noticed that I could not get the rear axle to move all the way forward on the right side, despite having the screws all the way in. The block (on the inner right side of the swingarm) that restricts angular motion of the brake caliper seems to either have been welded too close to the rear axle and prevents the full range of motion for the rear tire position adjustment on that side. Basically the brake caliper channel hits that block and the caliper cannot move any farther forward, preventing the rear axle from moving forward as well.

As I was already at the proper chain tension on the left side and couldn't get the marks to match as is, I ended up using an angle grinder to take a small chunk off the block that the brake caliper channel slides onto. Everything has full motion now, as it should, based on the position marks on the swingarm.

What I'm wondering is, has anyone else had this problem? Was this a flaw for the '08 bikes or perhaps just the lot that mine was made in? Or maybe just mine?

I did some searching, but couldn't seem to find any other mention of a similar problem in the forum, so I apologize if this is a repeat!

Let me know if anything doesn't make sense. I should have taken pictures, but was covered in grease.

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-28-2011, 10:48 AM
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I think the problem is you made your chain too short. I am running a 43T with stock chain, at the end of it's life, and I've got no problem any restrictions and being able to run enough tension. One chain link removed is a significant chain in wheel position.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-28-2011, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
I think the problem is you made your chain too short. I am running a 43T with stock chain, at the end of it's life, and I've got no problem any restrictions and being able to run enough tension. One chain link removed is a significant chain in wheel position.
The problem I had was that the position is fine on the sprocket side of the wheel with a 113 link chain. I'm about 70% past the first mark (closest to the front of the bike) on that side, but couldn't get the brake side to get anywhere near that close with the caliper on. The channel on the caliper isn't long enough or that holding block is improperly positioned.

My opinion was that if the axle can move that far forward on the left side, it should also be able to move that far forward on the right side...

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-28-2011, 10:57 AM
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If you had kept the chain at 114 links there wouldn't have been a problem. As the chain stretches, the axle will need to be moved only a couple of mm's over the lifespan of the chain, certainly less than one full mark on the alignment blocks. How hard is it to get the axle back in now that your adjustment screws are close to all the way in? You might want to consider adding a second master link to get back to the proper length chain. Just my .02$
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-28-2011, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mt. Versuvius View Post
If you had kept the chain at 114 links there wouldn't have been a problem. As the chain stretches, the axle will need to be moved only a couple of mm's over the lifespan of the chain, certainly less than one full mark on the alignment blocks. How hard is it to get the axle back in now that your adjustment screws are close to all the way in? You might want to consider adding a second master link to get back to the proper length chain. Just my .02$
Hmm.. the axle was easy to get in. I had no problem with that. Everything is reassembled now and the adjusting screws are close to, but not all the way in. I've got proper chain tension and the positional marks match up on both sides. I don't need to change anything now. It's running properly. I was just curious if other people had noticed this issue with the caliper position.

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-28-2011, 11:53 AM
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Good stuff then. In answer to your original question, I have not come across any mention of what you described, on either this forum or the uk forum (although, to be honest, I don't go to that one much anymore). Glad you got it sorted out.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-29-2011, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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Alright...Well thanks for the tips regardless and for checking around!

Maybe mine just got welded incorrectly.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-30-2011, 12:12 AM
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I've never heard of that, although there was a show on TV the other night about the missing link! Ok sorry, I'll head back to my cave now! Glad it is working for you!





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Last edited by MTS; 12-30-2011 at 12:14 AM.
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