heatgrip wiring source - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-04-2011, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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heatgrip wiring source

where is everybody drawing power from for there heat grips??? is there a source other than direct to the battery....??????
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-04-2011, 01:33 PM
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Go direct to the battery with a relayed connection, switched with something that is tied to ignition. I just did this a couple of weeks ago. I ran my switch wire from the rear tail light, as that wire was easily accessible and not wrapped up with 10 other wires--otherwise you can find something closer to the battery. I kept the relay close to the battery and ran ground and switched-power up front to the grip heaters and heater switch.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-04-2011, 02:30 PM
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Heated gear and grips take a lot of current so tying them in to an existing circuit like say the head light or running lights is bad. The fuse will blow and the lighting wiring is probably not large enough gauge wire to handle the extra current of the grips. Whether or not a relay is used it is best to power these directly from the battery.

Why a relay? If you accidentally forget to turn the grips off they will kill the battery. I've also read the Oxford controller uses a few milli amps when turned off so could potentially drain the battery if the bike is not ridden for a few weeks.

You can buy a purpose built relay wiring block at some place like twisted throttle or just get a basic automotive relay (basically an electrically operated on off switch) (15+ amp capacity recommended) for <$10 and duct tape it under the seat next to the battery. You can put your electric gear and heated grips on the relay. It will be more reliable if you solder the connections rather than just twisting them together.

Most relays have a similar pin layout. In the diagram below they've used it to switch the ground but on the versys it is better to switch the pos. When energized the relay "connects" pin 30 and 87 together to provide a switched high current power source at pin 87. Pins 86 and 85 are low current and turn the relay on or off. Connect the neg wire from your grips direct to the battery.

pin 30 - 12v source connected direct to battery or battery via fuse
ping 87 - switched 12v power source to pos connection of grips
pin 86 - to pos wire in running light circuit or other 12v source that goes on an off with engine
pin 85 - ground

Last edited by Sprocket; 10-04-2011 at 03:20 PM.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-04-2011, 05:14 PM
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I just wired my Oxfords through a relay last weekend just like Sprocket's diagram. Cost was $8 from an auto parts store. The dealer had wired them directly to the battery and I had always heard the Oxford Heaterz would auto shut-off when the voltage dropped below a certain point if you left them on by accident but of course I found out the hard way that that either isn't true or mine were defectice in that regard as I killed the battery at work one day when I left them on.
Anyways it's easy to wire in the relay, the hardest part is tying in to a switched 12v source (I used the wire for the license plate light which was easy to get at) to power the relay coil (85 or 86). The nice thing with this relay is that there is also a spare contact on it (87a in the above diagram) if I need to add anything down the road as the relay is good for 30 amps.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-04-2011, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Im and electrician by trade so I can wire a relay....guess Ill run it off the battery source....

Dan
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-04-2011, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wistrick View Post
Im and electrician by trade so I can wire a relay....guess Ill run it off the battery source....

Dan
On my 2011 there is a dedicated, switched plug for heated grips installation. I used that.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-04-2011, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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On my 2011 there is a dedicated, switched plug for heated grips installation. I used that.
as mine is an 2011 as well might u be able to tell me where to look for that plug in?? this is exactly what I was looking for.....

Dan
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-04-2011, 07:49 PM
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I have a Fuzeblock mounted under my seat. It is switched on/off by a wire hooked up to my plate light. The block is direct to the battery.

I run my gips and GPS so far, but have room for more if needed.

I killed my battery several times before setting up the block.

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Givi racks with V35 sides, and V46 Top-case, Garmin Zumo 450 GPS, Powermadd Handguards, Motowerks GPS Mount, Peg Lowering kit, Flat Foot, Arrow Exhaust, Adjustable Levers, GIPro Gear Indicator, Oxford Heated Grips
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-04-2011, 07:55 PM
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as mine is an 2011 as well might u be able to tell me where to look for that plug in?? this is exactly what I was looking for.....

Dan
Do a search for installing a 12V power outlet. There is a photo of the factory power plug which is behind the lefthand side of the radiator.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-04-2011, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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got it...anybody know if the switch and un switched power on that plug are off the same fuse????

Dan
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-05-2011, 10:33 AM
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got it...anybody know if the switch and un switched power on that plug are off the same fuse????

Dan
I'm mot sure this will work but I am trying to post a link to an older thread that describes the switched relay on the 2010's and 11's. The switched power is on the 5 amp fuse (c/w a spare) which is under the seat aft of the tool kit. The thread has a wiring diagram which helped me make sense of it.
If this link doesn't work, in the technical discussion forum use the search function and enter 2010 undocumented and the thread will come up.

Hope this helps.
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...0+undocumented

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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 02:36 PM
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I wired my new Keis heated grips into the rear light circuit. Nowhere in the fitting instructions did it not recommend doing it this way. Guess I'll find out in a couple of months if it's right or wrong.



Good luck exploring the infinite abyss
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pismocycleguy View Post
On my 2011 there is a dedicated, switched plug for heated grips installation. I used that.
You still need a relay with those connections. They may be switched but they are not relayed.

I installed both the Kawasaki heated grips and 12v power outlet. You may be able to download the instructions from kawasaki's website if you just want rig up your own components.

http://www.kawasaki.com/Site/kawasak..._999940194.pdf
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 09:20 PM
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I went straight to the battery with my Oxford grips with fused power, and auto shut off. Part of the reason I chose them this time was for the dead simple install.

When I've wired up heated wraps to another bike, I measured the current draw of the wraps, and found a fused, switched circuit with plenty of spare capacity, and it was fine.

Picking an arbitrary circuit without knowing the capacity of it, the max current it carries now, and the additional current from the grips can be bad. And it's best to leave some spare capacity in the circuit.

Adding a relay is a good idea. But it isn't always necessary.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012, 09:26 PM
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I had always heard the Oxford Heaterz would auto shut-off when the voltage dropped below a certain point if you left them on by accident but of course I found out the hard way that that either isn't true or mine were defectice in that regard as I killed the battery at work one day when I left them on.
Maybe yours are defective.

My daughter had them on an I4 bike that didn't charge below about 5k RPM, and sometimes you had to rev the engine just to get them to turn on. No such issue on the Versys, which charges at much lower RPMs.

My daughter's had a ~10mA current draw when off. I expect that the much newer ones I have draw less, but I haven't checked. The Versys gets ridden regularly so I don't think it matters.
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