Help Removing Front Brake Calipers - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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Help Removing Front Brake Calipers

I've been trying to replace my front pads but cannot get the calipers off. I did use blue loctite the last time I replaced them as 25 lbs torque seemed so low.....I know better now.

My 12mm sockets/wrenchs spin on the soft bolts and I can't get a good grip with locking pliers. I've sprayed penetrating oil and let it sit and than taped on them and sprayed more to no avail. Yesterday I got a "gator grip" and did manage to get one off but even it does not work on the other three. Please let me know what you think and also what size I need to replace them when/if I get them out. Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011, 01:47 PM
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Once you do get them off invest in a good set of six point metric sockets.

ST1300, Versys, SV650S
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011, 04:11 PM
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Perhaps, cutting a slot in them, then try a large, blade screwdriver. It works well, if the bolts are overtorqued, because it relieves pressure on the bolt head. The locktite may foil this approach, though.
OEM bolts, for replacements(no locktite needed).
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011, 04:15 PM
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Some carefull-directed heat on the threaded portion (rear) of the bolts should help.

+1 on using a 12-mm six-point metric socket. An impact wrench would also be helpful in breaking loose the blue locktite. (Buy or rent one.)
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 01:42 AM
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My front caliper bolts were pretty hard to loosen the first time, and it already had red Loctite. I did notice that the bolt heads were a bit soft. You might want to upgrade them with stronger M10-1.25 x 35mm bolts.
(Kawasaki 92153-1680 retail $5.11 each)

ARP stainless steel ($4.91 each): http://www.ballerbolts.com/arp-metri...mm-100mm-.html

Polished stainless steel or titanium: http://www.probolt-usa.com/Products/...Mount_Bolt_Kit




Last edited by invader; 09-01-2011 at 02:55 AM.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for the replies. Invader, thank you for the link, I'm ordering some now. I've got a lead on an extractor and if I can't get one locally I'll do a slot with the dremel. Thank you again all.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 01:21 PM
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Yeah, good link. The stockers are soft! mine are starting to round off and replacing them is on the list for the next tire change.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-04-2011, 07:18 AM
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If the bolt head is so rounded that a 12mm six point socket will not work, I have in the past successfully removed a bolt by carefully grinding the flats with a dremel and stone until the bolt head will accept a smaller socket.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-04-2011, 09:56 AM
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I just about rounded two out of the four front bolts on my V when I first took them off for maintenance. I've never had rotor bolts so tightly fitted to any of my motorcycles as tight as these ones were. I had to replace them with stainless steels bolts as they were basically knackered and even torquing the new bolts up to the required setting, they still didn't come close to how tight the originals were on. Methinks someone at the factory has their settings wrong and they are over-tightening said bolts.

Good luck exploring the infinite abyss
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-17-2011, 11:15 AM
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Careful on the stainless steel hardware. I use stainless steel bolts on the job (building wastewater plants..) and they are the easiest bolts to cross thread and once they do fetch up you can easily break them off with a wrench. I would opt for the hard carbon steel bolts and a dab of oil on the head to protect from rust.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-17-2011, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottyNeal View Post
Some carefull-directed heat on the threaded portion (rear) of the bolts should help.

+1 on using a 12-mm six-point metric socket. An impact wrench would also be helpful in breaking loose the blue locktite. (Buy or rent one.)
This....heat will break loctite.....Only use the red on things your don't want coming loose ever....like internal engine or drive train stuff. You need to use serious heat to get the red to break even says in on the label.

A heat gun may be enough to loosen the blue stuff....be careful with a flame...you don't want to cook the seals.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-17-2011, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for the input. My wonderful gf swung by harbor freight after work and picked an extractor set up after I ensured they had one. Worked so easily it was ridiculous!


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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-17-2011, 12:15 PM
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I've never had problems removing blue locktite, it's red that is a bitch. However, my friend overtorqued a 8-10mm oil filter bolt on his KLR, and broke the head off. I had to remove it.

I know your's has a head. However, The proper way (more or less) to remove a bolt with no head:

1. Use a punch, and mark the head in the middle.

2. Use a small drill bit (like, really small, lower #/64" bits) to drill a hole into the middle of the bit, using oil to lubricate. Repeat this with an increasingly larger bit till it's about 1mm, I have no concept of fractional inch sizes.

3. Then use a screw/bolt extractor to remove it.

Instead of buying a screw extractor, here's what I did. I drilled a small, deep hole in the bolt using steps one and two. Then I took a tapered pick:

The straight one from this set.


Then I tapped this pick into the hole with a hammer. The taper created friction enough to twist the bolt out, and the tapping loosened the bolt. You don't want to go overboard on the hammering though. Just need to tap it in.

Edit: hahaha, a minute difference between this post and his. Those extractors are great when you still have a head!

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Last edited by snarky; 10-17-2011 at 12:17 PM.
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