Lubricate the cables + equipment? - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-07-2011, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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Question Lubricate the cables + equipment?

Hello,
can someone point me to a good cable lubrication videos/guides? I need to lube the clutch/shifting cable cause is getting stiff.

I saw 2-3 on YouTube but wanna prepare bit more.
+ There is some tool they use for putting the lube into the cable, is this necessary?

Also, what lube should I use? Can I use WD-40 or it is bad for lubing cables?

Thanks,
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-07-2011, 11:48 AM
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Try herehttp://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ght=CABLE+LUBE

WD-40 to force out dirt, and 3 in 1 oil is what I use, some use chain lube but I think it's too sticky and holds the dirt.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-07-2011, 09:36 PM
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-08-2011, 12:14 AM
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Lithium grease is what I use. WD-40 is a nice temporary rust preventative and an ok penetrating oil in a pinch. The penetrating oil component is only meant to deliver the water displacing chemicals into small cracks and pores in the metal. When it evaporates, no more lubricant. Lithium grease is much more water resistant and takes a long time to dry out.

I've got the cable lubing tool. It's useful but not necessary. It can make a very messy job into a slightly messy job. Without the tool just pop the cable free, use your fingers to make a seal between the cable mouth and straw of your can and go until you see it come out the bottom end. Keep paper towels handy.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-08-2011, 10:30 AM
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FWIW, Unless it’s absolutely necessary, I don’t like the idea of cleaning with one product and then lubing with another... because the cleaner can interfere with the lube penetrating & coating the surfaces.

Tri-Flow penetrates well, cleans very well, lubricates great and protects well. It’s the best general purpose lube that I’ve ever used.

Break-Free CLP is another very similar product. I think Tri-Flow lubes a tad better but it’s a close call.


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Last edited by Hardware; 08-08-2011 at 10:32 AM.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-08-2011, 11:38 AM
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My dealer recommended RustCheck for cables. It flows well but then gells up to stay put and lubricate.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-08-2011, 12:09 PM
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Why not just use Cable Life? It is made to lube cables and you can buy a Parts Unlimited cable luber (part # 1606-0002) to make the job super easy. The can of lube and tool will last along time.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-08-2011, 01:00 PM
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Hey Skullmonkey -- I just lubed clutch cable yesterday. First time. I used PJ1 cable lube ordered from BikeBandit. It was pretty messy. Ended up wasting quite a bit of the lube. I will order/use cable lubing tool next time. Clutch pulls easier now.


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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-08-2011, 05:39 PM
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Have never had a cable issue. But with all this cable talk going on. Decided to get a cable luber, lube and waterproof grease this morning and just ordered a spare clutch cable to keep in the top case to be safe. I never know when i get a wild hair and just take off. Would hate to be stranded because of a broke cable.

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-10-2011, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skullmonkey View Post
Hello,
can someone point me to a good cable lubrication videos/guides? I need to lube the clutch/shifting cable cause is getting stiff.

I saw 2-3 on YouTube but wanna prepare bit more.
+ There is some tool they use for putting the lube into the cable, is this necessary?

Also, what lube should I use? Can I use WD-40 or it is bad for lubing cables?

Thanks,
[email protected]
So was all this any help to ya? by the way WD-40 is a Water Disperser, looks like I didn't spell that right. is not the best for lubricating but will work in pinch for a short time, as it will dry out. Good for displacing water though and making things shiny, getting gooey stuff off, heck there's a lot of things WD is good for.

Last edited by Nytrydr; 08-10-2011 at 07:16 PM.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-10-2011, 08:17 PM
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Nobody mentioned the most important part of lubing the clutch cable.

The nipple on the upper end of the cable must be lubed where it fits into the recess on the lever. If it isn't lubed, the nipple will not rotate in the recess properly, and this causes the cable to flex and fray at the nipple and break prematurely. I use wheel bearing grease or PJ1 chain lube, both are water resistant.

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-10-2011, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttpete View Post
Nobody mentioned the most important part of lubing the clutch cable.

The nipple on the upper end of the cable must be lubed where it fits into the recess on the lever. If it isn't lubed, the nipple will not rotate in the recess properly, and this causes the cable to flex and fray at the nipple and break prematurely. I use wheel bearing grease or PJ1 chain lube, both are water resistant.
Yep got the Bel-Ray waterproof grease for that.

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-10-2011, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ttpete View Post
Nobody mentioned the most important part of lubing the clutch cable...
Good point.

I don’t know if they’re all this way but on my 2010 (and the spare cable I bought) the barrel-end is `sleeved’, so that the barrel can rotate within the sleeve, even if the sleeve remains stationary in the lever.

I use white lube (lithium grease) on the outside of the sleeve but (since there’s no way to get that inside the sleeve) I use the same lube that I use in the cable (Tri-Flow) between the barrel & the sleeve.

31,000 miles so far and no sign of wear or significant stretch.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-11-2011, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttpete View Post
Nobody mentioned the most important part of lubing the clutch cable.

The nipple on the upper end of the cable must be lubed where it fits into the recess on the lever. If it isn't lubed, the nipple will not rotate in the recess properly, and this causes the cable to flex and fray at the nipple and break prematurely. I use wheel bearing grease or PJ1 chain lube, both are water resistant.
Its there in my reply, its in the second reply on this thread. click on the link I provided and you will find it there. this has all been done before.

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