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Radiator cap 0.9? 1.0? 1.1?
I've been having some problems with coolant boiling in the reserve tank so then I decided to replace the old cap by a new (1.1 bar) one. since I replaced the cap the coolant doesn't flow to the reserve tank anymore so I'm guessing the valve doesn't open in the cap as it doesn't reach 16 psi (1.1 bar) of pressure in the radiator.
I'm thinking to try either 0.9 (13 psi) or 1.0 (14.5 psi) cap by which I'll reduce the valve pressure to 13-14 psi and hopefully it will allow the coolant to the reserve tank.
the manual says the range should be 13.5-18 psi, so theoretically the 1.0 should fit.
what you guys think? has anyone tried it?
I'm thinking to try either 0.9 (13 psi) or 1.0 (14.5 psi) cap by which I'll reduce the valve pressure to 13-14 psi and hopefully it will allow the coolant to the reserve tank.
the manual says the range should be 13.5-18 psi, so theoretically the 1.0 should fit.
what you guys think? has anyone tried it?
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Buchephalus
I have not tried a different cap. All that I needed to do was clean up my old cap.
Invader (who is pretty well respected around here) provided some information in the following thread.
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ad.php?t=16079
Invader (who is pretty well respected around here) provided some information in the following thread.
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ad.php?t=16079
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thanks guys,
I ordered the OEM 49085-1066 part from ebay for $25 plus $15 for shipping to israel. Still way cheaper than buying it here cuz here they wanted $90 for the cap.
By the way, I tried the 0.9 bar cap today and same thing.. the coolant never got to the reserve tank even after/before the fan was spinning. I think the difference is in the length of the spring in the cap. looks like bikes' caps have shorter spring.
I ordered the OEM 49085-1066 part from ebay for $25 plus $15 for shipping to israel. Still way cheaper than buying it here cuz here they wanted $90 for the cap.
By the way, I tried the 0.9 bar cap today and same thing.. the coolant never got to the reserve tank even after/before the fan was spinning. I think the difference is in the length of the spring in the cap. looks like bikes' caps have shorter spring.
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well on my car i run distilled water and WaterWetter with a 20 psi cap. everything is fine. same concept will work on a bike. the higher the pressure the higher it raises the boiling temp of water. i acidently over heated my car and it didnt bil over until around 280-300 degrees. just a guess seeing as it was going up pretty fast since i forgot to hit the fan swith.... hahaha
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i like that graph
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Radiator Cap
Reviving an old thread here, but I'm having an occasional issue with coolant bubbling over into the reserve tank. Based in the comments, it sounds like the first thing to try is clean or replace the radiator cap. Sounds simple, but do I need to remove the fairing to remove the radiator cap? (Mine is an '08) I can get my fingers on the cap, but there's very little clearance. So should I just try to remove it without removing the fairing? Or does the fairing need to come off?
Thanks,
Scott
Thanks,
Scott
“A gentleman is someone who can play the accordion, but doesn't.”
― Tom Waits
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I have a 2011 and the fairing has to come off to get the cap off. There is some kind of security linkage that prevents to cap from being removed.
I had recently flushed my radiator and refill with Toyota Long Life Coolant and a mix of Motul MoCool. I lived in a 365 days hot climate and it has never boiled over.
Is your fan working in the first place? There are cases where tiny stones gets caught up in the fan bearings and prevent it from spinning.
Also, another case where the Warning Light came momentarily on on a ER6F, which uses a 1.3 cap. After having done 2X coolant changes, the problem was still there. Finally, the radiator was removed, and overhauled. It was a case of blocked radiator.
I had recently flushed my radiator and refill with Toyota Long Life Coolant and a mix of Motul MoCool. I lived in a 365 days hot climate and it has never boiled over.
Is your fan working in the first place? There are cases where tiny stones gets caught up in the fan bearings and prevent it from spinning.
Also, another case where the Warning Light came momentarily on on a ER6F, which uses a 1.3 cap. After having done 2X coolant changes, the problem was still there. Finally, the radiator was removed, and overhauled. It was a case of blocked radiator.
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My '08 has a wire part that is specifically placed to require that you remove the fairing to take the cap off. I solved my "gurgling" problem by cleaning the cap. It has not been a problem for over a year and about 10,000 miles.
My cap had aluminum flakes or some sort of paint over-spray (if I remember correctly what invader observed) that, once cleaned off, stayed off.
My cap had aluminum flakes or some sort of paint over-spray (if I remember correctly what invader observed) that, once cleaned off, stayed off.
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I ve replaced the radiator cap on my last service. Tried to solve the coolant drips from the drain pipe after every ride. Also changed the coolant. But it failed. Drips again right after riding home from service.
Is that becos of other worn rubber seals on the system???
My Versys is 09 model.
Is that becos of other worn rubber seals on the system???
My Versys is 09 model.
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Coolant wont flow to the reservoir if pressure doesn't exceed your cap's higher pressure rating. Higher pressure in the cooling system results in more stress on the hoses, radiator and seals. Stock Kawasaki # 49085-1066 cap is 1.1 BAR (16 PSI). It can be replaced with a Stant # 10233 or Prestone # RR-33.
50/50 mixture of ethylene glycol coolant and water normally boils at about 108.3°C (227°F) @ +0 psi (+0 bar). Pressurized to 14 psi more than atmospheric pressure, it's increased to about 128.3°C (263°F).
Evans waterless coolants have a boiling point of 190.6°C (375°F) @ +0 bar (+0 psi).
http://www.evanscooling.com/coolants/
If the water pump seal needs to be replaced, it has to be done properly.
http://homepages.slingshot.co.nz/~sh...tml#Question_1
50/50 mixture of ethylene glycol coolant and water normally boils at about 108.3°C (227°F) @ +0 psi (+0 bar). Pressurized to 14 psi more than atmospheric pressure, it's increased to about 128.3°C (263°F).
Evans waterless coolants have a boiling point of 190.6°C (375°F) @ +0 bar (+0 psi).
http://www.evanscooling.com/coolants/
If the water pump seal needs to be replaced, it has to be done properly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TommyLee
View Post
Hey there dirtdogger, ...I haven't posted in awhile, and this is a good time to bring everyone up to date on this leak deal. I finally figured it out! I took mine to the dealer twice under warranty, and they were more interested in collecting warranty reimbursement from Kawasaki than they were in resolving the issue. I finally purchased the parts myself from Mr. Cycles. To get to the meat of it, the dealer wasn't using a press to install the mechanical seal into the housing. The mechanical seal has a thin blue flat teflon ring around it. Unless a press is used to insert it evenly, it creates a wrinkle in this seal, and 'Wala!", ...like magic the weeper hole leaks. Although my bike has an extended warranty, I purchased the parts myself, and had the work done at my local shop (using a press of course). The result, ...no more weeper hole leaks 
If your bike is leaking only coolant (no more oil) through the weeper hole, then its still okay to ride. Simply keep an eye on your overflow tank tucked behind the R/H fairing. You can get all the parts cheap from Mr. Cycles, and if you know a local shop (with a press of course), then have them replace the seals. You should be fine after that. My local shop was Metric Method here in SoCal, and Ryan did an outstanding job! I highly recommend Ryan (and any of his crew) over at Metric Method for anyone in my local area!
If your bike is leaking only coolant (no more oil) through the weeper hole, then its still okay to ride. Simply keep an eye on your overflow tank tucked behind the R/H fairing. You can get all the parts cheap from Mr. Cycles, and if you know a local shop (with a press of course), then have them replace the seals. You should be fine after that. My local shop was Metric Method here in SoCal, and Ryan did an outstanding job! I highly recommend Ryan (and any of his crew) over at Metric Method for anyone in my local area!
Last edited by invader; 05-16-2013 at 12:23 AM.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by invader
View Post
Your water pump seal needs to be replaced, and it needs to be done properly.
http://homepages.slingshot.co.nz/~sh...tml#Question_1
http://homepages.slingshot.co.nz/~sh...tml#Question_1
Anyway, will arrange to check the water pump seal with mechanic. First, I will check whether any dried coolant residue surrounded pump seal. That link has a good write up.
Thanks.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ken
View Post
I ve replaced the radiator cap on my last service. Tried to solve the coolant drips from the drain pipe after every ride. Also changed the coolant. But it failed. Drips again right after riding home from service.
Is that becos of other worn rubber seals on the system???
My Versys is 09 model.
Is that becos of other worn rubber seals on the system???
My Versys is 09 model.
I had coolant dripping from the overfill hose for over a year.
Even in close to freezing ambient temperatures.
Recently, I drained the coolant thoroughly (by leaning the bike on both sides until it stopped dripping), burped the system, cleaned the radiator cap and now the drip is gone.
There was some black, sandy residue on the cap.
Bike runs the same before and after.
I've heard of a few Versys/Er6 witch drip coolant. Everyone seems to be ignoring the issue and calling it 'one of those things'.
I also know some Versyss that are being run hard with no maintenance or care and everything ticks.
Last edited by Ivan V; 06-04-2012 at 04:43 AM.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ken
View Post
I ve replaced the radiator cap on my last service. Tried to solve the coolant drips from the drain pipe after every ride. Also changed the coolant. But it failed. Drips again right after riding home from service.
Is that becos of other worn rubber seals on the system???
My Versys is 09 model.
Is that becos of other worn rubber seals on the system???
My Versys is 09 model.
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Wow - ressurected after a year. Good, may I ask if the new bikes are shipped dry ? I understand that if the leaks come from used units/bikes, the previous owners might not have done a good preventive maintenance but if new bike leaks, were they filled with coolant/water during transit and how long have they been standing in the warehouses and at what temp/humidity ?
All these should be taken into consideration when the sales office hand the bike over. And if they cannot give any certainty of the above, should we do a once-over for all the lub and liquids within a week after the purchase ?
All these should be taken into consideration when the sales office hand the bike over. And if they cannot give any certainty of the above, should we do a once-over for all the lub and liquids within a week after the purchase ?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glock19
View Post
Wow - ressurected after a year. Good, may I ask if the new bikes are shipped dry ? I understand that if the leaks come from used units/bikes, the previous owners might not have done a good preventive maintenance but if new bike leaks, were they filled with coolant/water during transit and how long have they been standing in the warehouses and at what temp/humidity ?
All these should be taken into consideration when the sales office hand the bike over. And if they cannot give any certainty of the above, should we do a once-over for all the lub and liquids within a week after the purchase ?
All these should be taken into consideration when the sales office hand the bike over. And if they cannot give any certainty of the above, should we do a once-over for all the lub and liquids within a week after the purchase ?
New bikes are factory coolant filled, I believe.
Last edited by invader; 05-16-2013 at 09:08 PM.
Cage
PleasureQuote:
Originally Posted by invader
View Post
This thread is about radiator pressure caps, and expansion tank overflowing/ gurgling... Actual leaks at the water pump seal are rare. Sometimes, coolant hose clamps just need tightening.
New bikes are factory coolant filled, I believe.
New bikes are factory coolant filled, I believe.
I also think that the best way to go for a leaky rad cap (unless the cap is kaput) or overflow is to change the coolant to something with a higher boiling point
It's what I've done and it fixed my overflow issue
My 2 cents
LOP
Last edited by Lours_Polaire; 05-16-2013 at 08:41 AM.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lours_Polaire
View Post
I also think that the best way to go for a leaky rad cap (unless the cap is kaput) or overflow is to change the coolant to something with a higher boiling point
It's what I've done and it fixed my overflow issue
LOP
It's what I've done and it fixed my overflow issue
LOP
Boiling point is rated at 133°C/271°F for Expert, and 136°C / 277°F for Factory Line, but only with a +1.5 bar (22 PSI) pressure cap! Compare that with typical coolant boiling points in my graph on post # 5 (138°C with 50/50 mixture). Expansion tank overflow is caused by overfill, or sometimes a dirty leaking pressure cap.
http://www.motul.com/system/product_...pdf?1347861483
Last edited by invader; 05-16-2013 at 11:17 PM.
Quote:
Originally Posted by invader
View Post
Like I mentioned before, Motul Motocool Expert and Motul Motocool Factory Line (as I have) coolants do not have a higher boiling point.
Boiling point is rated at 133°C/271°F for Expert, and 136°C / 277°F for Factory Line, but only with a +1.5 bar (22 PSI) pressure cap! Compare that with typical coolant boiling points in my graph on post # 5 (138°C with 50/50 mixture). Expansion tank overflow is caused by overfill, or sometimes a dirty leaking pressure cap.
http://www.motul.com/system/product_...pdf?1347861483
Boiling point is rated at 133°C/271°F for Expert, and 136°C / 277°F for Factory Line, but only with a +1.5 bar (22 PSI) pressure cap! Compare that with typical coolant boiling points in my graph on post # 5 (138°C with 50/50 mixture). Expansion tank overflow is caused by overfill, or sometimes a dirty leaking pressure cap.
http://www.motul.com/system/product_...pdf?1347861483
What I'm saying is that after reading the boiling point value of the oem coolant (which I can't find reference/remember) at a given barometric pressure in a post on this forum, I've put some Motul motocool 25 in my cooling system and since I've had no drip from that little tube that's beside the kickstand
Of course it's not a leak or a malfunction of the system ...
I guess this was your point !
Right ?
LOP
Last edited by Lours_Polaire; 05-21-2013 at 09:58 AM.
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