AIR Filter Question - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-22-2011, 08:25 AM Thread Starter
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AIR Filter Question

I got the chance to service my Versys. Changed the plugs, cleaned air filter, changed oil and filter.
That air filter is very hard to get to. Takes to much time.
I know what the manual suggests for a cleaning interval.
How often are you cleaning your filter?
What filter are you using? OEM or after market?
What are the total miles on your Versys?
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-22-2011, 08:59 AM
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Once the fuel tank is off, you can slide the air filter out after removing just one retaining screw. Depending on conditions, it's usually due for a cleaning and re-oiling at every 7500 miles, as recommended. It can last over many cleanings, although I upgraded mine with a Pipercross air filter and use Maxima's synthetic Fab1 air filter oil and Maxima air filter cleaner.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-22-2011, 09:04 AM
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From 2007 Versys Service manual:

Air Cleaner Element Cleaning
NOTE
○In dusty areas, the element should be cleaned more frequently than the recommended interval.
○After riding through rain or on muddily roads, the element should be cleaned immediately.
WARNING
If dirt or dust is allowed to pass through into the throttle assy, the throttle may become stuck, possibly causing accident.
CAUTION
If dirt gets through into the engine, excessive engine wear and possibly engine damage will occur.
•Remove:
Fuel Tank
Air Switching Valve Hose
Air Cleaner Element Screw
Air Cleaner Element
•Remove:
Upper Plastic Holder
Element
NOTE
○The wire screen is fastened with an adhesive for the shaded portion. Do not remove the wire screen.
WARNING
Clean the element in a well-ventilated area, and make sure that there are no sparks or flame anywhere near the working area. Because of the danger of highly flammable liquids, do not use gasoline or a low-flash point solvent to
clean the element.
•Clean the element in a bath of high-flash point solvent, and then dry it with compressed air or by shaking it.
•After cleaning, saturate a clean, lint-free towel with SE, SF, or SG class SAE 30 oil and apply the oil to the element by tapping the element outside with the towel.
•Visually check the element for tears or breaks.
•If the element has any tears or breaks, replace the element.
•Install the element unit with the foam element side (gray) facing down.

Last edited by invader; 06-22-2011 at 09:08 AM.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-22-2011, 02:11 PM
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Yeah, it is kind of a pain to get to.
I cleaned mine for the first time at 10K and it was dirty but not really that bad. I was more concerned that it was mostly dry and had very little oil on it. I cleaned it and oiled it up with Maxima filter oil. I am going to service/clean it at 10K intervals. My bike has just about 16K on it.

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-23-2011, 01:26 AM
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I am using DNA Air filter, just changed 1k km ago. I can't say how often I should wash and re-oil for this type of filter. Hope to get some info myself.

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-23-2011, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
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What the service manual does not state, is that the upper fairing has to be romeoved, then the tank.
I was able to spin the tank around without dettaching the fuel line and connectors.
I cleaned it, and oiled it with K&N filter oil.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-16-2011, 09:41 PM
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Clean and oil the DNA air filter every 20K with K&N oil. Ride now 47K.
Any excess oil with drain into the clear tube near the air box.

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-16-2011, 09:56 PM
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I found it easy to just spin the tank around (rather than disconnect)and sit it against work bench when I changed plugs and cleaned stock filter
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-17-2011, 06:44 AM
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It's one of those service tasks that you're the best judge of knowing how often it should be done, based on how bad it looks when you do it. If it's really dirty at 5k you should do it more often. If it's not so bad then you can stretch out the interval. I clean mine a couple of times a year, the bike has 55,000 kms, running strong. I have 2 OEM filters and just swap them out when it's time for a filter clean. That way I don't have to wait around for the filter to dry after it's been cleaned.

Personally, I think it's a good idea to become proficient at disassembly and reassembly. So many service tasks involve removing the fairings and tank, just get good at it and it goes quickly. Just my opinion.

Last edited by Mt. Versuvius; 07-17-2011 at 06:46 AM.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-17-2011, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi 41 View Post
I found it easy to just spin the tank around (rather than disconnect)and sit it against work bench when I changed plugs and cleaned stock filter
I agree. I spun it around where the seat was, and used a ratchet strap to secure it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mt. Versuvius View Post
It's one of those service tasks that you're the best judge of knowing how often it should be done, based on how bad it looks when you do it. If it's really dirty at 5k you should do it more often. If it's not so bad then you can stretch out the interval. I clean mine a couple of times a year, the bike has 55,000 kms, running strong. I have 2 OEM filters and just swap them out when it's time for a filter clean. That way I don't have to wait around for the filter to dry after it's been cleaned.

Personally, I think it's a good idea to become proficient at disassembly and reassembly. So many service tasks involve removing the fairings and tank, just get good at it and it goes quickly. Just my opinion.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-31-2011, 04:44 PM
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I spun the tank around also and it would have worked except the tank slipped, broke the fuel line connector at the bottom of the fuel pump and put a nasty dent in the tank.

After giving myself a couple days to cool down I am looking for a fix/replacement for the connector. Dealer tells me the only way he can get it is with the entire fuel pump assembly.

Any other options you guys know about?

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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-01-2011, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi 41 View Post
I found it easy to just spin the tank around (rather than disconnect)and sit it against work bench when I changed plugs and cleaned stock filter
The fuel line really isn’t difficult to disconnect and unless you’re very, VERY careful... IMO you’ll be more likely to break the fuel pump nipple trying to do it the “easy” way (by moving the tank around with it still connected).

A couple of things to note:

The tank is easier to handle if you don’t fill it first.

Raise the back of the tank up & rest it on something (like a short length of a 2x4) so that you can get your hands under it.

After you slip the red joint-lock clip back (it only has to be slid back a bit, not completely off) just twist the fuel line back & forth a bit to break the initial nipple to o-ring `sticktion’. By “twist” I mean rotate clockwise/counter clockwise like a screw – not up/down like a lever!

FWIW, I had to twist mine back & forth a bit to reinsert it too – but I wasn’t thinking... and the next time I do it I’m going to apply a little lube to the nipple (which should also make it easier to disconnect the next time...).
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-29-2011, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hardware View Post
The fuel line really isn’t difficult to disconnect and unless you’re very, VERY careful... IMO you’ll be more likely to break the fuel pump nipple trying to do it the “easy” way (by moving the tank around with it still connected).

A couple of things to note:

The tank is easier to handle if you don’t fill it first.

Raise the back of the tank up & rest it on something (like a short length of a 2x4) so that you can get your hands under it.

After you slip the red joint-lock clip back (it only has to be slid back a bit, not completely off) just twist the fuel line back & forth a bit to break the initial nipple to o-ring `sticktion’. By “twist” I mean rotate clockwise/counter clockwise like a screw – not up/down like a lever!

FWIW, I had to twist mine back & forth a bit to reinsert it too – but I wasn’t thinking... and the next time I do it I’m going to apply a little lube to the nipple (which should also make it easier to disconnect the next time...).
.
How much 'spillage' did you get? SM also says to suction out as much gas as possible from the tank. I'm guessing it's not really necessary. As you stated, an almost empty tank is a lot easier to deal with than a full tank.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Velocibiker View Post
How much 'spillage' did you get? SM also says to suction out as much gas as possible from the tank. I'm guessing it's not really necessary. ...
The connector is a Dry-Break (like the quick disconnect on an air line, it shuts off when uncoupled).

I didn’t get a drop out of mine but I would have a rag under it and take it off slowly just in case...

BTW,
The 2010 service manual also says that you have to remove THE ENTIRE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY to change a bulb... and I have NO idea why it says that
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011, 05:30 PM
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I hooked a nylon strap to an overhead hook in my garage, used that to lift and hold the fuel tank up high enough to remove and service the air filter and spark plugs. I had less than a gallon of fuel in the tank - that helped. I also used a universal joint on the spark plug socket, which really helped get the spark plugs out.
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottyNeal View Post
I hooked a nylon strap to an overhead hook in my garage, used that to lift and hold the fuel tank up high enough to remove and service the air filter and spark plugs. I had less than a gallon of fuel in the tank - that helped. I also used a universal joint on the spark plug socket, which really helped get the spark plugs out.
I usually just put the tank on a stack of objects of the right height. Unfortunately, my garage has plenty of such items. You are right, I cannot imagine getting the spark plugs out (and in) without one of these...
http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-1730-Universal-Joint-3-Piece/dp/B000NPUJNK/

People once implied that there was a tool in the OEM tool kit that would help get the plugs out. Either my kit did not include it, or I cannot recognize the tool.
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