Radiator Fan Manual Switch - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-20-2011, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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Radiator Fan Manual Switch

Can anyone help with a how-to for wiring in a manual switch for the radiator fan - necessary (IMHO) for summer in south Texas for my 2009 V ?
I have installed one on my '98 Concours and '01 YZF-R1 and appreciate the added control (and cooling) on these bikes and want the same for the V.

TIA
San Antonio
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-20-2011, 04:28 PM
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A word of warning, I have a heads up voltage monitor, below 1400 rpm if the fan is running it will draw from the battery, as the alternator cannot keep up.The second thing is that continuous running will shorten the life of the fan.Page 552 of the manual showes a purple with blue tracer running the fan relay from the ECU. Cut this wire and tap connect the relay end to the brown ECU relay control input, tape the purple / blue from the ECU. As long as the ECU is powered up the fan runs. To put back to stock but splice the purple with blue tracer wire
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-20-2011, 05:01 PM
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There is a thermostat to turn the fan on and off as needed. You will not be able to control the engine temperature as accurately manually as the thermostat can control it automatically.

On the Versys, the fan is only ever normally needed when the bike is stuck in traffic and not moving.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-20-2011, 07:23 PM
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If the temp controlled fan has always kept the radiator from boiling over, you've never overheated it, and don't need a fan override switch. It won't help one bit. Typically, the fan will cycle on and off as necessary, and will shut down once you're moving again.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-20-2011, 09:31 PM
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Temperature sensor is in the head's lower rear coolant passage, just above left cylinder. Cooling fan comes on at a coolant temperature of 196F (91C). Temperature warning light is set to go on if coolant reaches 239F (115C). Thermostat valve opens at 177-182F (80.5-83.5C). Full opening lift: 8 mm (0.31 in.) or more at 203F (95C).
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-21-2011, 02:45 AM
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Hailwood, Thanks for posting.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-21-2011, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the kind replies.
I'm aware of all the issues you all noted and certainly don't have a large problem with letting the motor/cooling system handle itself as designed when in stop and go traffic when it's 90+ degree weather (which is May to October here).
I have found (and it's my firm opinion) that under those circumstances being able to run the fan BEFORE the fan is supposed to kick in keeps temps far lower (thus prolonging engine life) than allowing the system to get to that temp in the first place (both the ZG1000 and R-1 have temp gauges). You can also run the fan for a minute or two after hot shut down and this takes advantage of the thermo-syphon phenomenon that occurs in the radiator to reduce coolant temps.
I've done this with my Connie for the past 13 years (and the R-1 for 10 years) and it's worked well on these vehicles for the past 66+ K and 22+ K miles, respectively.
Concerning battery current pull, if you only run the fan manually as I mentioned and flip the fan off when you begin to move again, I have had zero problems with batteries or fan motors after many years.
Possibly it's just my OCD wanting to keep coolant temps down (first bike was in 1965 and EVERYTHING was air cooled in the old days).
Again, great forum with terrific people and vast amounts of information.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-21-2011, 12:56 PM
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Would this work for you? Wire a DPDT so one position uses stock config and other would use a hot wire of your choosing.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-21-2011, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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Rocksolid -you are THE MAN.
Thanks very much.

BTW, LOVE the red frame accent with the Ninja Green V in your avatar pic !!

Thanks again, I remain,
Trying to stay cooler in San Antonio.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-21-2011, 03:35 PM
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All that's necessary is to put an SPDT switch in the wire to the sensor. One way connects the wire to the sensor for normal operation, the other way grounds the wire and the fan comes on.

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-21-2011, 04:12 PM
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Quick question:

While standing still (or barely moving) in traffic, is it better to keep the engine and fan running or shutting the engine off?


I also live in an area with temperatures above 30℃ from May till October and I am concern with overheating.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-21-2011, 07:27 PM
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Hi Ivan,

Would say depend how long is the traffic stand still.
If short (1-2 mins), myself would leave the engine on.
Comparing water cooled engine to an air cooled ones, thermal engine variations are minimum on the water cooled ones (Versys).
Plus avoid abusing the starter motor and battery.

Temp. here on a hot day are always high, about 32-33 C.
One reason had opted using 15W-50 engine oil.


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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-22-2011, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Ivan V View Post
Quick question:

While standing still (or barely moving) in traffic, is it better to keep the engine and fan running or shutting the engine off?


I also live in an area with temperatures above 30℃ from May till October and I am concern with overheating.
Shutting the engine off, also shuts off the cooling system. This leaves the coolant that is sitting in the engine to get very hot, while if you leave the bike running it will keep circulating.

When I get home I hear my fan turn on as the bike is idling before shutdown. When the bike is killed it does not continue with the fan or anything till cool like some other bikes i have had in the past.

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