Fuseblock relay hookup - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-04-2011, 05:45 AM Thread Starter
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Fuseblock relay hookup

Is there a convenient place to hook-up the switching relay ? Someplace I don't have to cut into ? The old KLR had an unused 'city light' shielded female bullet connector beneath the front fairing which served the purpose. Any such unused 12v plug on the V ?

Just thought I'd ask before I go cutting into my license plate light wiring.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-04-2011, 08:22 AM
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Use a wire tap-in squeeze connector, then all you are doing is "tapping" into the line rather than cutting. Much safer and easier to do in a confined space.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...rName=Category

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-04-2011, 10:49 AM
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Ditto on the T-tap, I think I did it on the tag light, no problem.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-04-2011, 11:02 AM
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I think that I tapped into the tail light. I really like the posi-tap connectors:

http://www.amazon.com/Posi-tap-Connectors-12-18-Gauge-Wire/dp/B00389RUEO
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-04-2011, 12:04 PM
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I used the low-beam headlight; so that there is no current draw until the motor is running.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-04-2011, 03:48 PM
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You could open up the bikes stock fuse box and hook it into there. I had my GPS hooked up to my tail light, but had it done in the fuse box, wrapped around the fuse end rather than cut a wire.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-04-2011, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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We have a winner ! That sounds like the best, least "invasive" technique. Exactly where on the bikes fusebox did you hook it?

Thank you for that suggestion.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-04-2011, 07:18 PM
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I like the low beam too it keeps more power for starter.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-04-2011, 08:11 PM
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I bought 2 connectors male and female, I disconnected the connector from the brake light and put the new connectors between the brake light and the old connector. I added a brake modulator to the wires.
Now if I want to remove the brake modulator and reconnect everything like the OEM, it takes 2 minutes.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-04-2011, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdcooper View Post
Hawkshot

We have a winner ! That sounds like the best, least "invasive" technique. Exactly where on the bikes fusebox did you hook it?

Thank you for that suggestion.
Open up the small fuse box next to the battery. Take note of which fuse controls what, and pull the proper fuse. I originally had my GPS hooked to the tail light fuse, but after reading the people saying headlight I just switched fuses.
With a low gauge wire strip the end about a 1/2". Do'nt twist it as that will take up to much room.
Bend the stripped end in half and semi stick it into one side of the fuse holder. It wont want to go in to well, but when you stick the fuse in with it, it goes down good.
i cut a small notch in the side of the fuse box to run the wire out of so the lid will close properly.

I had my GPS set up like this so it would auto shutoff. I just installed a FZ-1 Fuzeblock as I have more gadgets now, and used this technique for the relay wire. After a few people saying to hook it to the headlight to get more cranking power I hooked it to that fuse this time. However the relay still kicked on when the key was turned so it did not work out, but i never had a problem with stuff coming on before start up before.

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-06-2011, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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Done! Works like a champ.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-07-2011, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottyNeal View Post
I used the low-beam headlight; so that there is no current draw until the motor is running.
I would recommend NOT doing this. You have a power interruption when you hit high beam (I tried that for my GPS, at FIRST). Instead I used the DRLs (daytime running lights) as they don't change.

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