Alternator output? - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-13-2008, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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Alternator output?

What is the alternator output of the Versys? Service manuel says only 8 amps. or about 112 watts, not enough for heated clothing. Another post on driving lights refers to 336 watts which is more likely. Perhaps the 8 amps. listed in the service manuel is on for one leg of the 3 phase alternator. (3 x 8 = 24 or 336 watts at 14 volts.
The Suzuki V-Strom 650 has 375- 400 watts.
Anyone know for sure? Appreciate any insight on this matter from you members before I purchase new bike.
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post #2 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-13-2008, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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New to forum. After I posted the above question I found some earlier posted information on this subject. Still trying to determine output. An 8 amp. alternator (service manuel specs.) can only put out 112 watts at 14 volts ( ohms law) not 336 watts which would require 24 amps at 14 volts. My quess is that each of the legs of the three phase alternator produce 8 amps. or a total of 24 amps.. But this is only a quess.
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post #3 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-13-2008, 03:55 PM
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Yep . Totalling 336 .
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post #4 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-13-2008, 07:26 PM
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When I first got my Versys I was concerned that it wouldn't have enough juice to run my heated gear, gps etc. My other bike KLR 650 has a pathetic charging system.

The initial published service manual specs for the Versys were incorrect. The real specs are posted below. Recent service manuals have been corrected.

Don't worry your V has plenty of watts to run everything you could possible need, heated gear, spot lights, heated grips etc. And I've confirmed this running my heated gear and other stuff full bore for many miles.

24 amps & 14 volts @ 5000 rpm. 24 x 14 = 336 Watts Watts / Volts = Amps Amps x Volts = Watts

Gerbing jacket 75watts + gloves 30watts + GPS24watts + LED Strip6watts = 133total

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post #5 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-14-2008, 05:53 AM
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What REMAINING watts are after running the bike is the big question. Like it says here:

http://www.powerlet.net/documentatio...scapacity.html

Plus, you shouldn't go beyond 80% of your remaining watts. EFI takes more running watts than carb.

You'll also have to be aware of your RPMs. What load you can handle OK doing hwy riding can overtax the system doing a lot of city riding that is stop and go.
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post #6 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-14-2008, 06:13 AM
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Looking at their chart:

Table 2 Common Operating Loads
High Beam 55 watts
Low Beam 55 watts
Number Plate 5 watts
Brake/Tail 21 watts
Instrument Panel 2 watts
Computer 25 watts
Fuel Pump 60 watts
Cooling Fan 60 watts
Electronic Ignition 50 watts

A common operating load for a standard fuel injected bike is about 285 watts.
A common operating load for a standard carbureted bike is about 195 watts.

Considering our rad fan is not always on and I only run low beams, then I should be using about 218 watts for normal use.

336 - 218 =118 watts available.

118 x 80% max use of it = 95 watts truly available.

I run a 75 watt front low beam bulb = 85 watts available when running the bike at at normal RPM.

This winter I plan on upgrading my heated clothing by buying Warm and Safe jacket and gloves.

Machog, you said you run "Gerbing jacket 75watts + gloves 30watts + GPS24watts + LED Strip6watts = 133total", so there must be something wrong with my calculation of available watts. What is it?
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post #7 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-14-2008, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for reply to alternator ouput

Thanks to all

Machog The information on the earlier service manuels being wrong answered my question. I believe 336 watts will handel my needs.

Atgatt I have the Warm & Safe jacket liner and gloves am am very pleased with them. Present bike is a Kawasaki Nomad with close to 600 watt alternator so no problem. My jacket liner draws 100 watts however they sell one I believe that draws only 77 watts. Actually I alway have to turn mine down to 1/2 or less after initial warm up witch only takes a short time so I am not concerned about being able to electrically support it with the Versys output.

Po sloke Noticed your profile . My motorcycles and dog are also very high on my list of things I enjoy.
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post #8 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-14-2008, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
there must be something wrong with my calculation of available watts. What is it?
atgatt, not sure, but if their chart is right-I'd be SOL with only 51 watts left.

Logically cooling fan wouldn't be on when I'm wearing my heated gear-so minus 60watts there, but in theory that would still leave me short.

All I can say is with my heated gear at 100% (I almost never use it at that setting), stopped at lights with blinker (TS) going it still shows 12.3 volts plus. I.E. positive charge or no strain on the battery. I know my gauge is accurate, checked against a quality multimeter.

Worst case ignition off and heated gear on full, battery starts out at 12.3v, probably wouldn't stay there for long.

But you can see in normal cruising 2500rpm or above with heated gear I'm getting over 14v. When I get a chance I'll run these numbers again-I did this a couple of days after I got the bike-and see they still check out.

Voltage Results;
Off 12.8/12.7
Off+Gerbing 12.30
Idle 14.4
Idle+Gerbing 12.65
Idle+Gerbing+TS 12.3
2.5rpm+Gerbing 14.3



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post #9 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-14-2008, 03:45 PM
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Machog, thanks very much. Where can I get that voltage readout you have?

Like you said and others have too, just because heated gear CAN go to a wattage, it does not mean it will stay there. The Warm and Safe jacket I want will go up to 100 watts and the gloves combined at about 25, but I'll have a limiter to how much I want. Just good to know that on some very cold, windy days for long rides that I could kick up rather than tolerating it for so long like I have in the past.

You show "2.5rpm+Gerbing 14.3", what is it with all your: "Gerbing jacket 75watts + gloves 30watts + GPS24watts + LED Strip6watts = 133total"?
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post #10 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-14-2008, 06:20 PM
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atgatt, here's the place where I got my meter;

http://www.marteltesttools.com/produ...n=detail&id=69

14.3 volts is what I get when running above 2500rpm, i.e. normal running speeds when I have my Gerbing stuff on, along with GPS etc.

I know that battery is positively charging even if I have heated stuff turned all the way up. Basically it means that all the gear is being run by the alternator, none from the battery.

Until you see voltage drop below 12.5 ish volts, battery is being charged. Less than than its about even-no loss no gain until you get below about 11.8 volts, lower than that and your battery is slowly discharging.

There are of course a lot of variables, temp, age & condition of battery, efficiency of alternator etc, but you can use those numbers as a guide, I do anyway.

Does that answer the question??


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post #11 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-14-2008, 09:19 PM
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Machog, excellent info you gave and I'm very happy to hear it.

I just tried to order that meter but they are on back order so I'll call them tomorrow.

Thanks again.
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post #12 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-15-2008, 04:16 PM
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Machog, FYI, when I called to order that meter I asked if it was rain-proof, as in HEAVY rain proof, and she said no, it can just take a little water.

So when I get it I'm going to make a see-thru housing for it so it stays dry.
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post #13 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-15-2008, 04:33 PM
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Mine was classified as rain proof and I have been through some major storms for hours with no ill effects over 12 months and 10,000miles. Sometimes display goes a bit funny in very hot sun (100+), but again no long term problems.

Couple of points, to make it as accurate as possible take the wires straight from the display to the battery, don't go through a fuse or another 12v source.

It has no on off switch, but if you were leaving your bike for a few weeks, display would drain battery slowly.

The black dome below the display in the photo is an push on/off switch. I got it from a marine store and then put a small rubber dome over it-also from a marine store. Only a few $$'s, but I didn't want it on all the time.

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post #14 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-15-2008, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Machog View Post
Mine was classified as rain proof and I have been through some major storms for hours with no ill effects over 12 months and 10,000miles. Thanks, I surely believe you, but I'll still add a cover.
Sometimes display goes a bit funny in very hot sun (100+), but again no long term problems.
I'll add a separate radiator hose surrounding it with its own temp gage to keep it under 80 degrees. (joking)

Couple of points, to make it as accurate as possible take the wires straight from the display to the battery, don't go through a fuse or another 12v source.

I'll do it only because you say so, but for the life of me I don't know how the two wires both kept the same length can make a difference if they have more curves.

It has no on off switch, but if you were leaving your bike for a few weeks, display would drain battery slowly.
My bike seldom sits. And when I do leave for a trip that I have to fly and be gone a few weeks, I'll just disconnect. But, then again I could leave it and see how much the battery really did drain. Seems like a simple display like that would last many weeks on with no harm, but we'll see.
The black dome below the display in the photo is an push on/off switch. I got it from a marine store and then put a small rubber dome over it-also from a marine store. Only a few $$'s, but I didn't want it on all the time.

Machog
You have been a great help and sure appreciate it. Now I can order the Warm and Safe with no worries.
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post #15 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-15-2008, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by atgatt View Post
This winter I plan on upgrading my heated clothing by buying Warm and Safe jacket and gloves.
I use a Warm and Safe jacket liner and gloves in winter. I turn the heat-Troller to 11 often, as I am fairly cold blooded. Never ran out of juice.

Our tail light is LED, IIRC, only 0.5W used there and 3.7W when using the brake. I'd estimate about 200W used under normal operation, probably less.

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post #16 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-16-2008, 10:07 AM
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I'll do it only because you say so, but for the life of me I don't know how the two wires both kept the same length can make a difference if they have more curves.
ooops my bad.

Its not the length of the wire or how many curves they have in them. Its the fact you must connect directly to the battery, not through a 'hot' headlight wire or turn signal. I.E. from display to battery not via fuse box etc.

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post #17 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-16-2008, 03:53 PM
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Gustavo, Viva Warm and Safe. This month I'll order the G3 jacket that stops the wind and the Carbon gloves that are water-proof. Now I'll look forward to the cold. My Widder 35 watt vest is now retired.

What trolley did you get and how did you mount it?

Machog, it's too late, I already ordered straight wiring. Thanks, I'll go directly to the battery. And thanks again for letting us know about that meter.
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post #18 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-16-2008, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Machog View Post
ooops my bad.

Its not the length of the wire or how many curves they have in them. Its the fact you must connect directly to the battery, not through a 'hot' headlight wire or turn signal. I.E. from display to battery not via fuse box etc.

Machog
It's not "your bad", it's my stupidity for not reading what you were really saying but somehow my mind got focused on the word: straight. So to be honest here, it's my bad.
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post #19 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-16-2008, 04:53 PM
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Talking You da man

Quote:
Originally Posted by Machog View Post
atgatt, here's the place where I got my meter;

http://www.marteltesttools.com/produ...n=detail&id=69

Machog
Thanks again for posting this Mackdog.

As others have stated, the manufacturer is showing this meter on backorder. I did a quick Google search for "QM-100V" and came up with this:

http://www.transcat.com/Catalog/prod...itemnum=QM100V

Readily available and a bit cheaper on price too ($36.00) Needless to say I ordered said voltage gauge (GOD I love Farkles!) earlier today. Already got my UPS shipping notice via email when I got home from work.... be here Thursday.

Thanks again!
Jim
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post #20 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-16-2008, 09:43 PM
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MackDaddy, turns out when I called them they DID have them in stock. They need to get that off their site about having them on back order.

Yeah, you got it a few bucks cheaper. I opted for the diode option as protection, but how likely it is it would ever need it is in question. The meter is clever and will give us more peace of mind knowing whats going on the the battery and alternator charging.
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