Brake Bleeding-Help Needed - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-21-2011, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
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Brake Bleeding-Help Needed

After searching the forum I learned that bleeding the brakes after a SS line upgrade is a major pain in the ass. I proved it last night after struggling for 2 hours and still not finishing the job. I'm running two lines from the MC to each caliper on the front. The lines are attached and are not leaking. I tried bleeding the system several different ways. I am getting fresh brake fluid out of the bleeders on both calipers but I still have zero resistance when applying the brake. The lever bottoms out and the pads don't move.

This is what I have done so far. What am I doing wrong/not doing?

1) Filled MC with clean fluid
2) With lid off MC, pumped brake handle and tapped on lines/calipers to let bubbles float up and out through the MC. At no time did the fluid level in the MC drop below the "Lower" line marked on the side. I refilled the MC as needed.
3) Replaced lid on MC and used a "One man bleeder kit" to bleed caliper. Bottle was mounted above caliper, little plastic nozzle was inserted into bleeder, and bleeder was opened until brake fluid started flowing. I pumped the handle several times and got clean fluid-no bubbles-several inches up the line. I closed the bleeder, checked the fluid level in the MC, and repeated the process on the other caliper.
4) Repeated steps 2 and 3 repeatedly over the course of 2 hours with the same result each time. Clean fluid out of the bleeders with no bubbles, no bubbles coming from the MC, and zero resistance when pulling the brake level.

What am I missing? Thanks in advance!

Todd
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-21-2011, 10:40 AM
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You still have air in your line keep hening the lever with the bleed valve open. It takes a while just keep after it. Just when you think your done you get more bubbles just keep after it until your not getting any on either side.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-21-2011, 06:41 PM
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I really struggled with this when I did the lines on my TDM. It was enough of a PITA that I had my mechanic do it on the V when he was doing some work on the fork.
It turns out that the best way to do it is to push the fluid up the line from the bleeder on the caliper. A large syringe and some tubing works for this task. This is what I finally did with the TDM, after struggling for a couple days.
Here's a How-to from an SV forum.
http://www.bluepoof.com/motorcycles/...s_brake_lines/
These bikes use the same caliper that we have on the V.

Are you doing new pads as well? I put on the EBC Double H. well, Chris did!
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-21-2011, 07:19 PM
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You need to crack open the bangos a little and bleed the air out through there. I have done this several times and this will help get the trapped air bubbles out. Just wrap a towel around the banjos to catch the brake fluid.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-22-2011, 09:04 AM
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Two additional things you can do that may help:
1) Back Bleed the calipers. Be careful not to damage the pads, push the pucks fully away from the rotor one at a time, pumping the caliper back out before moving to the other side. Right after pressing the caliper full open(away from the rotor), with the handle bar positioned to give the straightest continuous rise to the line, move the lever in/out a few degrees (you are working the piston back and forth where the piston picks up fluid from the MC), then finally fully pump up the caliper and repeat on the other side.
2) You can bleed air trapped in the MC sometimes by pumping up the lever and cracking the banjo bolt on the MC. make sure you place rags under the MC, brake fluid is very corrosive to paint.

and thats my 2Cents

PS. If your using the stock MC you'll never feel a really solid lever, In my opinion the piston is to small in the MC. Thats why I replaced mine with a radial MC.
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ead.php?t=6272
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-22-2011, 09:31 AM
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this might just work-try it out:
Just before sleep, pull the brake in and cable tie it and leave the reservoir cover open ( remove the nuts and leave the cover on top of it free for air to escape).

In the morning just put the cover back in place and secure fittings. Try the brake now....hope it works for you.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-22-2011, 09:57 AM
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Try taking the bike to a Mechanic. Have the wife meet you there and pick you up. Then spend a few hours with her at the mall looking at completely meaningless crap (which you will probably need to buy some of) and then once she is content, have her drop you off at the bike shop where you can pick your bike up with no muss or fuss.

- Sorry, this was useless but everyone else had it covered. I did my CBR the night before a track day and didn't get to bed until 1am. They are a beotch sometimes.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-22-2011, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flienlow View Post
Try taking the bike to a Mechanic. Have the wife meet you there and pick you up. Then spend a few hours with her at the mall looking at completely meaningless crap (which you will probably need to buy some of) and then once she is content, have her drop you off at the bike shop where you can pick your bike up with no muss or fuss.

- Sorry, this was useless but everyone else had it covered. I did my CBR the night before a track day and didn't get to bed until 1am. They are a beotch sometimes.
good advise.FlienLow. Think I might just do that next time on brake work-

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-22-2011, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flienlow View Post
Try taking the bike to a Mechanic. Have the wife meet you there and pick you up. Then spend a few hours with her at the mall looking at completely meaningless crap (which you will probably need to buy some of) and then once she is content, have her drop you off at the bike shop where you can pick your bike up with no muss or fuss.

- Sorry, this was useless but everyone else had it covered. I did my CBR the night before a track day and didn't get to bed until 1am. They are a beotch sometimes.
I love that advice, but my wife and myself have got a even better agreement, she goes to the mall and looks at meaningless crap for a couple pf hours I find the movie theatre there and meet here out side a couple of hrs later Its a win win solution.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-22-2011, 06:15 PM
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When it becomes necessary to service the brake system, one thing I will do is to install a banjo bolt with a bleeder screw at the master cylinder. I have these on the Ducati, and they make bleeding a lot faster and easier.

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-22-2011, 07:34 PM
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I just cover the bleeders with my thumb - it helps too if you have speed bleeders installed. Pull the brake lever, plug bleeder with thumb, release brake lever, repeat. This prevents air from re entering the system when you release the brake lever.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-22-2011, 11:46 PM
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Get yourself a Mighty Vac (or however they mis-spell it) vacuum kit. Everything you need to bleed your brakes quickly, easily and with little mess. The local auto parts store had it for $40.

There are a couple YouTube videos showing how to do it with and without the vacuum pump but it is pretty straight forward and instructions for motorcycles come with the pump.

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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2011, 12:22 PM
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Did you get it yet Todd?
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-24-2011, 11:35 PM
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+1 on the Speed Bleeders. If used properly, you don't have to worry about air getting back into the system.

Another great way to do this is with a closed system bleeder. Do yourself a big favor and go to Harbor Freight (or order online) on of these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-b...kit-92474.html

I have one of these and it makes bleeding the brakes a fast, clean job!

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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-27-2011, 02:20 PM
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Speed Bleeders plus Mity Vac does it for me. No tedious opening and closing of bleeders. Just have plenty of fluid on hand.
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