Mobil Oil Filter M1-110 - Anybody using it? - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-07-2011, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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Mobil Oil Filter M1-110 - Anybody using it?

I have a couple of brand new M1-110 filters that I didn't use on my last motorcycle... I found the chart in another thread that states they will also fit the Versys, but I'd rather hear from somebody that they have in fact used these filters in the Versys before I drain my oil... Anybody?
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-07-2011, 03:28 PM
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I use the Purolator car filter; 28,000 miles and no issue. I would expect that the M1 filter would have the same results.

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-07-2011, 04:19 PM
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Mobil 1's is the same filter as K&N's which has a nut welded on top.

K&N / Mobil 1:
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-07-2011, 04:22 PM
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http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Filters.html

"Super Tech: Comparable to an OEM filter, but $2 instead of $13.

Mobil-1 M1 110: Excellent filter media, but only 2/3 the surface area of a stock filter.

Purolator Pure One: Excellent filter media, and there's a bit more of it than stock."

Last edited by invader; 02-14-2011 at 10:10 PM.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-08-2011, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the clarification and insight on the K&N... Looks like I'm all set for my oil change...
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-08-2011, 10:39 AM
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I use the M 110 on both my Honda VTX 1300 and on the Versys.

No issues.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-08-2011, 02:54 PM
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Great filter. I use it on my 2009 versys and it also fits my 2006 Honda Pilot SUV.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-12-2011, 07:08 PM
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Yep, I'm using it. No issues whatsoever.

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-13-2011, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by invader View Post
Kawasaki OEM oil filters are made by Toyo Roki, Japan. Not the best or the worst, they are made by contract to specified dimensions and minimum required specs. You of course pay more through Kawasaki...

http://www.roki-jp.com/english/products/index.html



http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Filters.html

"Toyo Roki (OEM): Decent filter media - not up to the standards of the Purolator, Mobil-1, or AMSOil, but there's a lot of it.

Super Tech: Comparable to an OEM filter, but $2 instead of $13.

Mobil-1 M1 110: Excellent filter media, but only 2/3 the surface area of a stock filter.

Purolator Pure One: Excellent filter media, and there's a bit more of it than stock."
I cut opened the Malaysian OEM Kawasaki oil filter over the weekend and found that it is completely different from this photo from Invader. I'll post photos later. Anyway, it uses some sort of hard sponge instead of folded paper. When I say hard, it is really hard, something like the bubble stones you use in the aquarium. The core that separates the dirty oil and the filtered oil is made of plastic instead of sheet metal, with long vertical rectangular holes. There are no END Caps, as the hard sponge doesn't need a structure to support it. The relief valve is similar to Denso's design with spiral radial spring, instead of the coil compression spring you found in other designs. The anti-flow back rubber piece is soft and very flexible, even after 5k km of usage. There are 8 holes for oil to flow in. The filter overall size is pretty small, the same size as my Corolla's oil filter in terms of diameter, height, and the number of inlet holes but not the same thread size

I will do the relief valve breakage PSI measurement a few days later. Got to bring it in my workplace as we have got a Force gage.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-13-2011, 09:16 PM
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My original oil filter that I kept is actually a Denso made in Japan, and is just like the way you describe yours. I can see the plastic frame and the blue anti-drain valve without cutting it open.
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-14-2011, 09:34 PM
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Here are some of the pictures taken after the dissect of the original Kawasaki Filter in Malaysia. Filter is courtesy of a 2009 Versys, after 10k km of usage. I had one Hack of a time hacking away with the hack saw to get to this point. Will check the breakage force on the spiral spring soon.

Picture shows the major components of the filter. 8-holed inlets bottom plate, relief valve on the filtering media assembly, and blue flexible rubber anti-drainback valve. UPDATED: Hole diameter is 5mm.


Close up shot on the relief valve, showing a spiral type spring. UPDATED: Relief Valve is 18 PSI.


The other end of the filter, showing how the relief valve looks like from the other side.


View on the inner side of the media with rectangular holes. The substrate is plastic with bubble-stone filtering media attached to it. No End Caps on these filters. The bubble stone media is hard as a bubble stone used in aquariums.

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Last edited by 2daMax; 02-17-2011 at 12:38 AM.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-14-2011, 09:47 PM
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Nice... Does your filter read Made in Japan like mine, or in Malaysia?
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-14-2011, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by invader View Post
Nice... Does your filter read Made in Japan like mine, or in Malaysia?
It does say "Made in Japan".

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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-17-2011, 12:43 AM
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Updates on Kawasaki OEM Filter.

1. Relief Valve breakage force was 4kg-F or 39.14N measured with a Force Gauge.
2. Relief Valve diameter is 20mm, which gives an Area of 318 mm^2 measured with a Vernier Caliper

Pressure = Force/Area = 39.14/318 = 0.122 MPa or 18 Psi.

The 8 holes on the bottom plate has diameter of 5mm.

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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-22-2011, 10:16 AM
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I took the opportunity to check the Honda Civic 1.8 oil filter from a spare parts shop as it matches the V oil filter. It is a OEM Honda filter. There are 8 inlet holes, orange color anti-drainback, and the relief valve is similar to Bosch. The length is longer than Versys filter, maybe a 3.25". It cost RM20, about USD$6, which is heaps cheaper than OEM Versys which is about RM51 or USD$17. Now, to find someone who can provide a used one for me to check the relief valve.

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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-22-2011, 12:20 PM
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I have used the M-110 filter on my 05 Connie, (traded) my '08 Versys since new and my 2010 Connie since new. My Miata uses the same filter, and I have had no issues whatsoever.

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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-22-2011, 12:53 PM
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I'm surprised you find the pressure relief valve to be 18psi. The higher pressure relief valves specs of auto filters are the primary difference from motorcycle specific filters. Moto filters usually have a pressure relief valve spec of ~8psi and auto filters 12-14psi. This is why Puralator recommends not using the Pure One on motos.
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-22-2011, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
I'm surprised you find the pressure relief valve to be 18psi. The higher pressure relief valves specs of auto filters are the primary difference from motorcycle specific filters. Moto filters usually have a pressure relief valve spec of ~8psi and auto filters 12-14psi. This is why Puralator recommends not using the Pure One on motos.
Yes, I am equally surprised with 18 psi, and I re-check my measurements to be sure. I was expecting 14 psi.

However, now that it is 18 psi, it would be 'safe' to use automotive oil filters, i.e low risk to use car filters that are 14 to 18 psi spec.

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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 09:21 PM
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Wiped two bearings using this filter

Hello All,

I had been using a FRAM filter for all my oil changes on V1k.

One time to buy filters I found them out of stock. A search on my phone brought me here. Based on the information in this forum I purchased/installed M1-110A oil filter. Perhaps a completely different product than a M1-110 mentioned in this thread.

I found that one mile down the road the oil pressure light illuminated. I stopped the bike and looked over the the engine, smelled nothing amiss, bike was running well, level was correct. Got back on the bike and rode, within half a mile all power was lost and I drifted to a stop on the shoulder.

Disassembly found two bearings wiped on the the intake cam shaft.

Took some time to get parts ordered and did the work myself. Now up and running again, apparently as well as ever it has run.

Most expensive filter I've ever purchased.

Thought I'd warn someone in event I can prevent another bad decision.
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