Ist mein chain kaputt? - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-01-2017, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Ist mein chain kaputt?

Hey everyone. I noticed yesterday while at a walking pace that there was a clunking sound coming from my back end. I got home and checked out where the noise was coming from... Lo and behold, it cometh from the chain. I'm just wondering if you guys would diagnose this chain as being about to explode, or whether I can keep riding it for a while?

It would appear that the rollers have about a 1/16th size gap between the linkages and that is what is allowing the clunking noise to happen, as I demonstrate in the video... I'm just confused, as i'm not exactly what you would call a saint about chaintenance... But i'm also not the devil. Could this be in relation to which chain lube I use? I generally just buy whatever I can get from the local auto store for chain lube... Would name brand lube have prevented this?

Thanks for the help!


Last edited by Gangles; 09-01-2017 at 01:48 PM.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-01-2017, 02:59 PM
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that bit of side to side movement is normal (my brand new chain and sprockets do the same)and not where your chink sound is coming from its more likely coming from a tight link. also inspect you o rings and make sure none are missing
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Last edited by silviefox; 09-01-2017 at 03:03 PM.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-01-2017, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
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Would you be saying that the clunks are all resulting from one bound up link, putting stress on the whole chain? Or multiple bound up links? I was cleaning, lubing and checking slack the other day and it doesnt feel bound up anywhere... I'll have another fiddle around with it and get back to you.

What is the tolerance (rough estimate) on your chain rollers between the actual links though? There is a gap between the roller piece and where they should be butting up to the links to prevent water from contaminating the bushing.

I'll take some more pictures when I have more time if it becomes necessary, thanks for the input!
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-01-2017, 04:12 PM
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There is usually a small gap between the plates to allow for the O-rings that seal the chain.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-01-2017, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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Follow up vid:

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-01-2017, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gangles View Post
O.O ya that dont look right......*walks out to garage* well ill be damned all my chains are the same, there is about enough gap to get my fingernail between the roller and side plates...... how have i never noticed that before in the 100's of chains ive changed lol

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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-01-2017, 06:48 PM
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I came from a shaft drive bike, so not much chain knowledge, I was looking over my chain on Sunday and was wondering about that gap also. Thanks for answering my question.


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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-01-2017, 07:39 PM
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I would check to see if it's stretched in one spot. That's what happened to me at about 8000 miles, I've never had chain issues like I have had on this bike. Couple weeks ago the chain flew off going down the highway at about 80mph, I was running a clip master link which I've done on numerous other bikes and never had an issue...well lesson learned I broke down and bought a chain rivet tool and now at 15,000 miles I'm on my 3rd chain😡


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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-01-2017, 11:33 PM
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I don't see a mention of how many miles are on your bike

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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-02-2017, 05:15 PM
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Just replaced the chain and sprockets on my Gen 3 650.

The NEW chain is an EK 520 SRX2 Quadra-X Ring in gold, and it came w/ a "screw-type" master link, FIRST one I've ever seen.

You put the 'male piece' thru the chain to join the ends, add the female, gently screw the two "nuts" in (in 60 degree intervals) till they bottom w/out REALLY tightening them, then visually check them and IF they match a diagram in the instructions you "BREAK" the nuts OFF, and that's it.... SURE hope it works OK. I believe I prefer a rivet master-link.


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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-02-2017, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
Just replaced the chain and sprockets on my Gen 3 650.

The NEW chain is an EK 520 SRX2 Quadra-X Ring in gold, and it came w/ a "screw-type" master link, FIRST one I've ever seen.

You put the 'male piece' thru the chain to join the ends, add the female, gently screw the two "nuts" in (in 60 degree intervals) till they bottom w/out REALLY tightening them, then visually check them and IF they match a diagram in the instructions you "BREAK" the nuts OFF, and that's it.... SURE hope it works OK. I believe I prefer a rivet master-link.

ive used those before as a back up on trail bikes and only used one once, its just a rivet type link that the nuts are the crimping tool. great for a back up if you dont want a clip master link and dont want to carry a chain breaker tool

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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-02-2017, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by silviefox View Post
ive used those before as a back up on trail bikes and only used one once, its just a rivet type link that the nuts are the crimping tool. great for a back up if you dont want a clip master link and dont want to carry a chain breaker tool
I like EK chains so when that new master link came out I ordered one just to see how it works and yes the nuts act as a clamp and after you break off the ends there are these two O rings that you slip over the ends-I'm not so sure I would trust it long term- so I called EK USA and had a chat-the answer was the force needed to slide the plate on is greater with this link than a regular rivet link a real interference fit and the O rings are there to bind the side plate from coming off just in case-still don't trust it-it may work just fine BUT if it doesn't bad things can happen-being I have a rivet tool from years ago I will use it with the EK rivet links that have a hallow pin they mushroom nice.

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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-03-2017, 02:38 AM
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If the O rings are missing your chain is toast. Replace front sprocket with any chain replacement. Suggest X ring variety of chain for longer life and perhaps less parasitic loss of power.

Also if you do not own one, a chain tool like the one linked below is required as well as a course file or dremel or grinder to help in removal of old chain. They are used to grind off head of pin saving strain on chain tool that can break it. It will save you money over the long run. Relatively easy to change the chain yourself. DON'T use a clip on master link as they have the occasional habit of coming undone which will cause a crash and possibly ruin the engine casing. A chain tool is less than the cost of having a dealer install a chain and you'll have it for next time. See many chain change How To videos on YouTube.

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/...rivet-tool-kit

chain length is 114 links (with stock sprockets) and 520 size

front sprocket is 15 tooth. OEM Kawasaki sprocket contains a rubber damper that aftermarket sprockets do not have. I've only used OEM front sprockets so cannot comment on aftermarket sprockets and how they perform without this.
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-04-2017, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the comments and ideas everyone! I have a new chain and sprocket set coming in the mail... I don't think that this issue is enough to swap them out immediately so i'll probably ride it until the end of the season and swap them then... Unless it gets worse of course.

Overall I checked that it wasn't out of alignment by playing with the adjusters and it made the noise regardless of how I tried to realign the wheel/sprocket. I checked the torque of the front sprocket nut and it was fine... I suspect this is down to the manufacturer using low quality chains to keep costs down?

Final follow up vid (I know i'm a bad boy for idling the bike in first while on the centerstand, but it really helps demonstrate how... Unsmooth it is...):

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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-04-2017, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motorboy View Post
I like EK chains so when that new master link came out I ordered one just to see how it works and yes the nuts act as a clamp and after you break off the ends there are these two O rings that you slip over the ends-I'm not so sure I would trust it long term....
I just re-read the instructions that tell how to use that "screw-on" master-link (to make sure I understand the instructions), and you do NOT do what you wrote, as I'm sure you'll have a chain-failure if you did!

You install (lubed) O-rings onto the pins then slip the (lubed) 'male' part thru the ends of the chain, holding it together. Next add two more (lubed) O-rings, then the female part - the sideplate [SPECIFICALLY W/ THE LETTERS FACING OUT], then put those two nuts on finger-tight, followed by GRADUALLY tightening them w/ a wrench or socket (60 degrees at a time, alternately, till they BOTTOM). Then you visually inspect them (as per a pic in the instructions), and IF they match that pic you use your wrench to 'snap' off the nuts.

I did it, but I'll certainly 'keep an eye' on it.


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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-04-2017, 04:44 PM
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Thanks for the comments and ideas everyone! I have a new chain and sprocket set coming in the mail... I don't think that this issue is enough to swap them out immediately so i'll probably ride it until the end of the season and swap them then... Unless it gets worse of course.

Overall I checked that it wasn't out of alignment by playing with the adjusters and it made the noise regardless of how I tried to realign the wheel/sprocket. I checked the torque of the front sprocket nut and it was fine... I suspect this is down to the manufacturer using low quality chains to keep costs down?

Final follow up vid (I know i'm a bad boy for idling the bike in first while on the centerstand, but it really helps demonstrate how... Unsmooth it is...):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6F3eihZyvg
That video is so weird. It look like the wheel and sprocket are turning forward, but the chain is turning backwards.
It would be a good investment to purchase a motion pro chain alignment tool. Motion Pro Motorcycle Chain Alignment Tool MP 08-0048 15-0125 P548 57-8048 | eBay
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-04-2017, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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That video is so weird. It look like the wheel and sprocket are turning forward, but the chain is turning backwards.
It would be a good investment to purchase a motion pro chain alignment tool. Motion Pro Motorcycle Chain Alignment Tool MP 08-0048 15-0125 P548 57-8048 | eBay
Good idea! I'll invest in one of those after the pain of new tires + brakes + Chain + sprockets wears off!
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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-04-2017, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
I just re-read the instructions that tell how to use that "screw-on" master-link (to make sure I understand the instructions), and you do NOT do what you wrote, as I'm sure you'll have a chain-failure if you did!

You install (lubed) O-rings onto the pins then slip the (lubed) 'male' part thru the ends of the chain, holding it together. Next add two more (lubed) O-rings, then the female part - the sideplate [SPECIFICALLY W/ THE LETTERS FACING OUT], then put those two nuts on finger-tight, followed by GRADUALLY tightening them w/ a wrench or socket (60 degrees at a time, alternately, till they BOTTOM). Then you visually inspect them (as per a pic in the instructions), and IF they match that pic you use your wrench to 'snap' off the nuts.

I did it, but I'll certainly 'keep an eye' on it.

So your link didn't come with two small O rings that you slip over each stud after you snap them off-maybe EK doesn't use them anymore-my link is over ten years old.

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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-05-2017, 08:58 AM
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I've never seen a chain act like that last video, and I've owned chain-drive bikes since the mid 1970s. Weird. Unless it's an optical illusion. In any event, if you've got a fair number of miles on that bike, check the cush-drive rubber, too.

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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-05-2017, 09:07 AM
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Good idea! I'll invest in one of those after the pain of new tires + brakes + Chain + sprockets wears off!
Your chain is toast. See previous comment.

After first getting my wheel aligned with the Motion Pro tool, then doing the string method, I found out the Motion Pro tool had a sizable error. The problem is the rod that comes with the tool is not nearly long enough to indicate alignment with any accuracy.

Bottom line is it is no better or more accurate than the marks on the swing arm for approximate setting of rear wheel alignment. The only way that works well for me to get an accurate alignment is the string method. If you are willing to take an extra few minutes you can get your rear wheel extremely precisely aligned with the string method. See YouTube how to videos.

Here's what works best for me:
  • adjust chain slack with left hand adjuster, the one on the sprocket side
  • adjust alignment with right hand adjuster
  • ALWAYS kick and then push wheel forward against adjuster bolts after any clockwise adjustment of adjuster bolts
  • set chain slack for 3cm from fully pulled up to fully pushed down, midpoint in the chain, and measured from the same side of the chain in both positions. Measuring this will throw out rear wheel alignment if the axle bolts are not tight as it will cause the rear wheel to twist slightly with chain tension. Be sure to kick and push rear wheel forward against adjustment bolts after checking this.
  • set approximate alignment with marks on swing arm or chain alignment tool
  • set wheel alignment with string method

Last edited by twowheels; 09-05-2017 at 09:26 AM.
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