Valve Shim 2015 Versys - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-30-2017, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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Valve Shim 2015 Versys

Valve shim 95% complete , I may add text as time goes along and more photos. It is at a point that I would be comfortable telling someone to follow, provided they also had a service manual to follow. What I posted was some clarifications that are lacking in the manual and some methods that I developed with the aid of others on this forum, to make a very expensive service , doable by the average DIY member with the proper tools. And at the same time feel confident that everything is correct, something I questioned myself when doing my 07, lets just say there were several phone calls to the BC Kawasaki Tech Support Hotline .

This thread is for questions or comments related to my thread.
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...onewizard.html
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Last edited by onewizard; 08-30-2017 at 09:05 PM.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-30-2017, 09:02 PM
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Cool Awesome!!!



This has to be the most informative thread that I have read since joining this forum in 2015.

Information is power. All we need to do now is pick up our tools and do it.


I still have a full deck.
I just shuffle slower.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-23-2018, 01:39 AM
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Garage
I used this site to do my shim calculations. It is very comprehensive:
Triumph Universal Valve Shim Calculator Tool

I also found a Australian place that manufactures shims and has them in 0.02 sizes.
Most of the kits you find and I think OEM shims are all 0.05 or 0.025 sized

When I did my shims in 2014 on my 2012 Versys, I set mine as close to the upper/loose limit as this will allow for a longer wear interval.

For us Ozzies, the Australian site I bought my shims at is: Flat Shims
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-23-2018, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack of Heats JoH View Post
My gen II 2011 V manual indicates valve inspection at 15K miles.

I need to do an inspection later this year, suspect some will be tight and I plan on sanding the shims. Curious how long per shim this typically takes?
, the more material you need to remove, the longer it takes***OK I had to say that, also I used 300 and 600 grit, 600 takes a lot longer, actual time about 7 minutes as you want to check when you are getting close ,that is ,check more often using your micrometer --I have done this service first on a 07 then on my 2015, like several postings, I sanded all my shims so the spec when complete was the maximum clearance, someone said a tappy valve is a happy valve
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-23-2018, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by twowheels View Post
Bike is a version 2 with low milesage, 16,000 miles/27K km.

Intake valves were all at the lower limit while two exhaust valves were outside the limit at .2mm. See chart.

Should I leave the intake valves where they are or try and adjust?

Specified limits in my manual are .22 to .31mm for exhaust valves and .15 to .21mm for intake valves.



Given the valves were out of spec at a mileage number that is half of what the recommended service interval is for this it would seem to be beneficial to check and adjust valve clearances earlier in the life of the bike than recommended rather than waiting until later as specified in the manual.

On another note bike has always seen synthetic oil and changes at interval in manual which is 12 Kkm/7500 miles and there was absolutely no sludge or any signs of oil residue in the head. No visible wear on valve buckets.

Does anyone make shims in smaller increments than 50 micro meters, like say 25 micro meters?
Checking valve clearances that are at or near limits can vary a bit depending how ham fisted the checker is. If the feeler gauge slips in fairly easily then you are within factory tolerances. If you have to force the feeler gauge then you are probably out of limits. By forcing you can get a reading you think is in limits but in reality is up to perhaps half a thousands tight.

If in doubt then it is time to re-shim, especially if you are on the tight limit.

Keep in mind that in spec is just that. If you are near the tight limit, as my bike is when checked about 1500 miles ago, you can still run it but should consider checking it again in around 5k thousand miles rather than the published interval.

Good luck.

Cookin Wid Gas

2015 V-650 of course it's green...it's a Kazawalski.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-24-2018, 07:25 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jack of Heats JoH View Post
Thanks Onewizard. 7 min give or take a few is no problem. Really glad you didn’t say 45 min to 1 hour! Do you wet sand?
Yes I had carbide paper , it lasts longer and does a better job, wet sanding. I posted a photo, what I did is take a 2X4 , 6 inches long, on the 1.5" side is drilled a extremely shallow hole, same diameter as the shim, at the center of the 6 inch length ,ground the drill bit similar to a milling cutter, the depth of the hole is about 55% of the thickness of the shim, this saves your finger nails and allows more even pressure, also reduces strain on your fingers.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-24-2018, 07:37 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawkerjet View Post
Checking valve clearances that are at or near limits can vary a bit depending how ham fisted the checker is. If the feeler gauge slips in fairly easily then you are within factory tolerances. If you have to force the feeler gauge then you are probably out of limits. By forcing you can get a reading you think is in limits but in reality is up to perhaps half a thousands tight.

If in doubt then it is time to re-shim, especially if you are on the tight limit.

Keep in mind that in spec is just that. If you are near the tight limit, as my bike is when checked about 1500 miles ago, you can still run it but should consider checking it again in around 5k thousand miles rather than the published interval.

Good luck.
And in reference to feeler gauges, I have been doing it a long time, with oil on the surfaces it is really hard, and that is why I use the go no go feeler gauges, you can feel the difference, and I will leave that to those people like myself that have used them to explain.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-24-2018, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack of Heats JoH View Post
Is there a particular reason you use a 2x4 6” long? I was thinking of a smaller sanding block perhaps 2x2 4” long.

My guess is it doesn’t matter but wanted to confirm this with you.
Exactly, wasn't going to put my table saw together to shorten it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack of Heats JoH View Post
I have a digital caliper with fine resolution, but purchased a micrometer for checking the shims. I read somewhere that shims can be slightly dished or have a lip on the outside which will render an inaccurate reading if a caliper is used.
They are so small in diameter I doubt you could measure a difference.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack of Heats JoH View Post
Now I need to look into go no-go feeler gauge, may be time to replace my 45+ year old set.
I have probably 10 different feeler gauge sets, been doing work on bikes for 40 years, to be honest, the go no go is what I use all the time now, check accuracy with your micrometer also , here is a example, increments are odd and even, that is
4mm / 6mm 5mm/7mm 8mm / 10mm so a brief explanation, say using the 5/7 it goes easy first then a bit harder , use the 4/6, if it goes in evenly all the way, then your thickness is 6mm.

https://www.amazon.ca/Performance-To...o+feeler+gauge
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
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A More Detailed Explanation

Quote:
Originally Posted by quexpress View Post
I've been using regular feeler gauges since the very early sixties.
I guess it's time to get up to date.

This explanation found on the net permitted me to see the usefulness of these go no go gauges.

"The stepped or go/no-go feeler gauge is more convenient to use in many cases than the common or flat blade type gauge. The blades of the stepped feeler gauge are of two thicknesses.
If the desired clearance is 0.011 inch, select the blade labeled ".010 - .012." One-half inch of the tip of a 0.012-inch blade is ground to a thickness of 0.010 inch.
If the 0.010-inch tip will enter the opening, but the blade stops when it reaches the 0.012-inch area, the clearance is between 0.010 inch and 0.012 inch or very close to the measurement desired, 0.011 inch."


Thanks for the tip! I'll be shopping.
Like I said, someone will explain it better!!

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