Generation 2 Throttle Body Sync - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-22-2017, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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Questions: Gen2 Vac Sync

Has anyone done a throttle body sync on a generation 2 650 bike? It appears I need a special tool to adjust the bypass screws as these are inaccessible with a screw driver. Accessibility seems to be the big issue. Note, I have a vacuum sync gauge.

One issue I found is there are two tank connections on left side of tank. I'm not sure what these are for as they are unspecified in manual. One goes to a hose that just leads to bottom of bike, assuming over flow, the other goes to I think the transmission. Not sure if I got these reconnected in right order. Does anyone know which is which and what they do?

Changed plugs and cleaned air filter yesterday and planned to do throttle body sync too but found I had no way to access the bypass screws. Air filter seems to have been upgraded since my generation 1 bike. Throttle body sync procedure is different too.

With 22K km on the odometer the filter was filthy and the original plugs were passable but the cathode on one showed some minor degradation and was bent slightly. They could have gone much longer but I changed anyway. Removed air box and cleaned out dead bugs and leaves on pre filter side.

Last edited by twowheels; 07-25-2017 at 11:31 AM. Reason: fix title
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-22-2017, 09:07 PM
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On my Gen 2 (2011) I removed the emissions tumor and just plugged the one tank connection (mine had a blue dot next to it). As far as the TB sync, I have not done it. I just the did the vacuum hose mod connecting the two TB's. No adjustment necessary.


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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-22-2017, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by AlaskaJeff View Post
On my Gen 2 (2011) I removed the emissions tumor and just plugged the one tank connection (mine had a blue dot next to it). As far as the TB sync, I have not done it. I just the did the vacuum hose mod connecting the two TB's. No adjustment necessary.
I have the Canadian/48 state version of the Versys, not the California one with extra emission equipment. Mine does not have any blue dots on the underside of tank. There are two outlets on the left side next to each other for connections to two small hoses. Which is which? What do they do? What do they connect to? One hose appears to be just a drain hose that is open ended and goes to the bottom of the bike. Not sure where the other hose goes but appears to connect to the transmission as it terminates back there somewhere. Both of these are black hoses. There is also a clear and plugged airbox drain hose not to be confused with these.

Last edited by twowheels; 07-22-2017 at 09:44 PM.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-24-2017, 01:06 AM Thread Starter
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Identified these on the web. This picture is from a Version 1 manual. I have a version 2 manual which does not identify these. Still confused as I have a model without emissions canister.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-24-2017, 12:28 PM
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This picture should help


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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-25-2017, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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This picture should help
Thanks for posting picture. Couple of questions..
1) is front of bike to right of picture?
2) does connected hose just lead to ground?
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-25-2017, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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After doing more research it appears I need to purchase a pilot screw adjustment tool. The Kawasaki tool listed in the manual retails for $230. Motion Pro make two different tools. The more basic is about $40 and the advanced or pro one is about $100. My question is can I get away with using the basic Motion Pro tool which has a flat head on the end? Has anyone got some experience with this tool?

https://fortnine.ca/en/motion-pro-pi...djustment-tool

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-25-2017, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twowheels View Post
Thanks for posting picture. Couple of questions..
1) is front of bike to right of picture?
2) does connected hose just lead to ground?
1) Front of the bike is LEFT
2) YES, connected hose to the ground.


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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-26-2017, 09:00 AM
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there should be 2 hoses coming off the tanks nipples
1 is for tank filler cap water drain and hose just goes directly to ground - test by pouring some water around the tank fill ring and watch which nipple it comes out of.
2 is for fuel tank expansion and hose again goes to ground but at the end of the hose there should be small plastic expansion bottle.

TBS is easy - just use a 10cm long flat head screwdriver. the brass screws are recessed.
I have the motion pro angled tool as above - but I dont use it. small screwdriver is easier.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-26-2017, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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twowheels
there should be 2 hoses coming off the tanks nipples
1 is for tank filler cap water drain and hose just goes directly to ground - test by pouring some water around the tank fill ring and watch which nipple it comes out of.
2 is for fuel tank expansion and hose again goes to ground but at the end of the hose there should be small plastic expansion bottle.

TBS is easy - just use a 10cm long flat head screwdriver. the brass screws are recessed.
I have the motion pro angled tool as above - but I dont use it. small screwdriver is easier.
To use a regular screw driver I would need to be able to run engine with tank removed which is not possible with short fuel line. Also would not removing air box affect vacuum?

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-26-2017, 01:18 PM
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Extend Vacuum lines & cap/ plug

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To use a regular screw driver I would need to be able to run engine with tank removed which is not possible with short fuel line. Also would not removing air box affect vacuum?

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On my 2015 I installed roughly 18 inch vacuum lines and brought them out, then plugged them with stainless bolts where I cut the thread off. What I found is generally the vacuum sync changes due to changes in the valve shims, so if the valve shims are spec or on the loose side, the vacuum will be bang on. Someone suggested doing this extension, as it takes roughly 5 minutes to set up, all is good I just cap off the lines and am on my way.As to the tool, on the 2015 there isn't any room to work with a regular screwdriver, and there are cheaper options as to the Kawasaki tool. I also purchased the fuel line extension from Kawi and also got 2 bung adapters and fule line, so the Kawi extension is now one end male one end female, no more screwing around with the throttle body connection, FYI when removing the fuel line for the first time have some vaseline handy, put a small amount on the bung adapter, it will be much esier to install and remove next time.
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...37-post19.html
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Last edited by onewizard; 07-26-2017 at 01:22 PM.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-27-2017, 06:01 AM Thread Starter
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On my 2015 I installed roughly 18 inch vacuum lines and brought them out, then plugged them with stainless bolts where I cut the thread off. What I found is generally the vacuum sync changes due to changes in the valve shims, so if the valve shims are spec or on the loose side, the vacuum will be bang on. Someone suggested doing this extension, as it takes roughly 5 minutes to set up, all is good I just cap off the lines and am on my way.As to the tool, on the 2015 there isn't any room to work with a regular screwdriver, and there are cheaper options as to the Kawasaki tool. I also purchased the fuel line extension from Kawi and also got 2 bung adapters and fule line, so the Kawi extension is now one end male one end female, no more screwing around with the throttle body connection, FYI when removing the fuel line for the first time have some vaseline handy, put a small amount on the bung adapter, it will be much esier to install and remove next time.
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...37-post19.html
Any info on fuel line extension you can provide would be helpful. Like pictures. I've found cheap replacement fuel lines on ebay for <$20 but I would need to replace one end of them with an adapter similar to what is on fuel tank for them to work. Not sure where to get this.

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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-27-2017, 06:57 AM
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you are overthinking it... i stick a large garbage bin next to bike and rest the tank on it with fuel lines still attached

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Last edited by Gigitt; 07-27-2017 at 07:02 AM.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-27-2017, 01:19 PM
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Primarily MK-3

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Originally Posted by twowheels View Post
Any info on fuel line extension you can provide would be helpful. Like pictures. I've found cheap replacement fuel lines on ebay for <$20 but I would need to replace one end of them with an adapter similar to what is on fuel tank for them to work. Not sure where to get this.

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The info is partially right in over thinking if a 2014 or earlier. As to the 2015 and newer, good luck in accessing the vacuum ports without removing a host of parts. I took some advice from members on this forum and brought out my caped vacuum lines, put the original caps with all my other removed from the bike/ not needed parts. I then used some stainless 1/4 by 1 1/2 stainless bolts and plugged the lines, which happen to be wire tied to my Denali compressor. I can then do a vacuum check in 5 minutes and restore , then go for a ride.

As to putting a MK-3 fuel tank on the right side as shown in the above photo, good luck, the wire harness on everything of the 2015 is short as is the fuel line. I purchased the Kawi fuel extension line, then discovered that someone from China had one with a male on one end and female on the other. The Kawi line is meant to go on the throttle body , let me say it is almost impossible to get off and a PITA. So this is similar to the part I added
Fitting Fuel Line Quick Connector 1/4? Barb to 5/16? Bundy Male Tube JC9 | eBay

In reality, if you followed my post, if your valve shims are all in spec or all on the loose side, which is how I sanded my shims, that is you just did the valve shim check, confirming the vacuum sync can be done using my method, for about $5 for vacuum line. My 07 was a lot easier to access the vacuum adjustment screws, the later bikes with ABS take up the real estate under the gas tank and make it almost impossible to get at the caped vacuum ports, you may get the caps off, good luck in getting anything back on.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-27-2017, 09:44 PM
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China 8 to 12 weeks

For those that can wait and want to make their own extension line for the MK-3;
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/9-89-5-16-8mm...3D222122977932
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