rear spring - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-08-2017, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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rear spring

I have a 2016 650lt and the rear spring always seemed to stiff for my weight(200#). I was going to try a Hyperpro spring that others have tried to soften it up some and take away some of the harshness when riding. First I took off the orignal spring and when looking at it notice that like most springs it has a lot of coil bind on each end and decided to experiment with it by cutting off roughly 2 1/4" off each end and clean up and re taper the ends. I reinstalled the spring and the static height of the bike with nobody on it was the same so you don't have to shorten the kickstand but when you sit on it there is a lot more sag (roughly 1 1/2" -2" more than stock) with the preload turned all the way out. Been riding it like this for about 3 months now and i'm very pleased with the ride, all the harshness is gone and it has never bottom out on me. Had to repaint the spring cause the cutting wheel burnt some of paint on the ends. Final thought?, you are not shorting the spring, just removing the coil bind on each end. Note: do this at your own risk
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-08-2017, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mully123 View Post
I have a 2016 650lt and the rear spring always seemed to stiff for my weight(200#). I was going to try a Hyperpro spring that others have tried to soften it up some and take away some of the harshness when riding. First I took off the orignal spring and when looking at it notice that like most springs it has a lot of coil bind on each end and decided to experiment with it by cutting off roughly 2 1/4" off each end and clean up and re taper the ends. I reinstalled the spring and the static height of the bike with nobody on it was the same so you don't have to shorten the kickstand but when you sit on it there is a lot more sag (roughly 1 1/2" -2" more than stock) with the preload turned all the way out. Been riding it like this for about 3 months now and i'm very pleased with the ride, all the harshness is gone and it has never bottom out on me. Had to repaint the spring cause the cutting wheel burnt some of paint on the ends. Final thought?, you are not shorting the spring, just removing the coil bind on each end. Note: do this at your own risk
You've got brass balls ... a hardwood spring compressor for the rear shock. That's living too close to the edge for me LOL!
I use one made of -inch steel and still make sure that I'm very careful when compressing rear shock springs.

I still have a full deck.
I just shuffle slower.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-09-2017, 01:04 PM
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Hmm interesting haven't yet changed any of the adjustments for front/rear. You're saying at 200#,when rebound is softened all the way, it's still too harsh? Geared up for the commute, I'm probably pushing 250-255, including laptop/change of clothes. Anyone have a suggestion for tuning a bit?
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-09-2017, 04:44 PM
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Cutting a coil spring usually results in a stiffer rate. At 200+(im 220) I wonder if the opposite has happened. My bike and others I've heard of, suffers from not enough spring and the harshness comes from that and an excess of compression damping, coupled with too little rebound damping. A less rigid tire improved the situation greatly though.

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'09 V650, several others too!
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-18-2017, 07:08 AM
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Cutting a coil spring usually results in a stiffer rate.

correct...cutting a spring will change the spring rate and make it stiffer.

2016 green V1K
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-18-2017, 09:39 AM
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Hey, if it works for you, great! Certainly worth the experiment before popping for a new spring or whole shock I'd say.

2015 Versys 650 ABS
AMA, MSTA, Retreads

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-18-2017, 11:41 AM
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So did removing those bits result in the spring not hitting itself upon compression? If that is so, you effectively lengthened the spring.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-20-2017, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
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So did removing those bits result in the spring not hitting itself upon compression? If that is so, you effectively lengthened the spring.
Just a shade tree mechanic but guessing this is what happened. All I know is it lowered my bike only when I'm sitting on it and vastly improved the comfort of my ride.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-21-2017, 05:06 PM
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Cutting both of your spring ends with a zip-cut on a power grinder instead of with a hacksaw may have softened the spring slightly by changing its steel temper with the heat produced... Mostly, it is now simply shorter which reduces your spring's initial preload, but raises its rate.

Wyorider had actually tapered off the ends of the spring... See included photo: >

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Shock: Take a look at your stock shock spring. The ends do not taper, but rather have squared edges, and if you look closely, you will see where these sharp edges contact the next coil when compressed. With my bike unloaded, the spring measured 5.198 active coils. When the first square edge contacted upon compression, it measured 4.926 active coils, and the second brought it to 4.676 active coils. Using the formula (11,500,000 x (wire diameter) ^(4)) / (8 x (ID + wire diameter) ^(3) x active coils), the spring rate changes from about 1000 lb/in to 1050 to 1100. The formula and all sorts of good suspension information can be found at peterverdonedesigns.com. I removed my stock spring and carefully tapered the ends using a dremel tool with a cutting wheel and then a carbide shaping bit. If you do this modification, take your time, don't so much as nick the next spring coil, and remember that if you mess up, there is no going back. With this modification, my shock seemed at least somewhat more controlled and less harsh, and retains the original 1000 lb/in rate. The rear also sagged about 5 mm more after the mod, so take this into account if you ride with a passenger or luggage.

Last edited by invader; 07-21-2017 at 05:44 PM.
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