Motorcycle not keying on - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-01-2017, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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Motorcycle not keying on

The Problem: When turning the Versys to the 'On' key position, nothing happens.

Additional Info:
I left the bike covered outside for 3 weeks while I was vacationing. I came home and decided to go for a ride after doing a quick check-up on the bike. Started up perfectly with no problems or hesitation. Rode for about 30 minutes to a shop where I had ordered some new cables and hoses for my Versys (since it has come time to replace them). Started the bike again, with a slight fluctuation upon ignition, but nothing major, it seemed. Drove to a gas station to refill. When I tried to start it up again the bike would no longer key-on (no dash lights, no noises, etc).

Bike was recently at the shop after the "Engine Not Firing" incident that is stickied to the top of the forums, so everything has been recently professionally checked as well.

- I have checked and charged the battery (it was at 12.90V after this incident, charged it to 13.05V)

- I plan to more thoroughly check the starter relay for proper opening/closing this evening or tomorrow morning when it's cooler outside.

- I'll be looking through the shop manual for possible causes as well, so if you have it feel free to reference any sections that you may find.


Any input/suggestions are appreciated
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-01-2017, 01:21 PM
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you show the battery charged, but no dash lights come on. Let's start with the simple. Did you try cleaning the battery cables, and the battery post? It sounds like a bad connection at the battery. Also check and clean where the negative cable grounds to the frame.
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Last edited by Skypilot 69; 06-01-2017 at 01:24 PM.
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-01-2017, 01:53 PM
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did you try turning the key back and forth a few times? it could be corrosion on the contacts inside the ignition itsself... my SV650 had that problem when i got it and only found out after 2 batteries a starter relay and going thru all the wiring

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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-01-2017, 03:41 PM
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As mentioned above.........plus, check the main fuse.
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-01-2017, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skypilot 69 View Post
you show the battery charged, but no dash lights come on. Let's start with the simple. Did you try cleaning the battery cables, and the battery post? It sounds like a bad connection at the battery. Also check and clean where the negative cable grounds to the frame.
Truer words were never spoken then above. MANY MANY mo'sickle problems are caused by bad ground or blown fuses. If I could bottle this miracle cure I'd be richer'n Donald Trump.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-09-2017, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE:

Sorry it took so long to get back on here. Weather had not agreed with my plans to check what you guys mentioned. xD

Oddly, It keyed on when I tried it today, but when I hit the ignition I heard a quick *CLICK* then it all shut off again. Then continued its previous "no lights" behavior.

Here is what I've checked:

- Battery cables and connections are good (I cleaned each end and checked the continuity)
- Main fuses are good (2011 has 2, 30 amp fuses at the starter relay)
- Other fuses are also good

- Starter relay doesn't seem to be triggering (checked it directly with the battery and could not hear it moving, as I have in the past)
- After bridging the relay contacts with a screwdriver, still nothing
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-09-2017, 03:22 PM
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From what you described. (when I hit the ignition I heard a quick *CLICK* then it all shut off again. Then continued its previous "no lights" behavior.) sounds like a bad battery connection or bad ground.

Using a volt meter,connect the positive lead to the battery side of the starter relay then connect the negative lead to a bolt on the frame of the bike. Do you show good voltage? if not wiggle the negative lead, or connect it to a different bolt. If you still don't have good battery voltage, you have a bad connection at the battery, or a bad ground. If you do show good battery voltage, turn ignition on and hit the starter button while looking at the volt meter. If you loose voltage on the volt meter while pressing the starter button you have a bad battery connection, or a bad ground.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-09-2017, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE:

Checked the Starter Relay again (by using positive and negative leads directly from battery and testing the resistance on the relay) and it checks out. I got my familiar sound from it as well

So I will check all of my contacts/connections/cables again because it seems like I missed something or wasn't thorough enough. I'll hopefully have an update tomorrow
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-09-2017, 05:18 PM
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Cruel punks like you are the reason great looking craigslist ad bikes that I drive 2 hours to look at end up being rustbuckets. Get a garage to live in so that your bike can live in your house, you Bum!

(you know when you tell your wife "its me or the bike" and she chooses to live with the bike instead.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-10-2017, 12:39 AM
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2 days ago, my Bandit, that's always started right up and charges great, let me down. Not really since I was in my driveway! After a few weeks of non use and not getting hooked to the Tender, I rolled it out and fired up with a lazy sounding battery. Tickling the choke a bit much shut down the party. I hit the button again and got nada! Static the battery read 12.2v which isn't far off of normal. (I don't know what these miracle batteries are people get that sit at 13+ off charge!) As soon as I turned the switch to "on" it clicked numbers of the meter like mad all the way to 4v with no load. A load/amp test pinned the needle to "junk" immediately, replaced and all good. I've owned it 4.5 years and never pulled the battery out but thought I remembered it being a big $ Yumicron....I was shocked when I saw the Walmart logo! 😁

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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-11-2017, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skypilot 69 View Post
From what you described. (when I hit the ignition I heard a quick *CLICK* then it all shut off again. Then continued its previous "no lights" behavior.) sounds like a bad battery connection or bad ground.

Using a volt meter,connect the positive lead to the battery side of the starter relay then connect the negative lead to a bolt on the frame of the bike. Do you show good voltage? if not wiggle the negative lead, or connect it to a different bolt. If you still don't have good battery voltage, you have a bad connection at the battery, or a bad ground. If you do show good battery voltage, turn ignition on and hit the starter button while looking at the volt meter. If you loose voltage on the volt meter while pressing the starter button you have a bad battery connection, or a bad ground.
Did the above tests today:
- When testing between the battery side of the relay and frame I got good voltage.
- With the same test points, I turned the key to the "ON" position and the voltage dropped to around 4V.

I had cleaned the battery terminals and connections a couple days ago, so those should be good.
I the problem is a bad ground, I am having trouble finding it. The ECU and primary frame grounds check out. (I tested the resistance on both)
What do you think?

Also, I am able to see the dash lights flicker on for a split second when I turn the key to "ON". Then when turned back to "OFF" the Tachometer needle turns to the top, then back down (as if it were calibrating)

Last edited by Uyerion; 06-11-2017 at 04:54 PM.
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-11-2017, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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I would hate for this to be a bad ignition switch, though it is another possibility. Those are pricey to replace =/
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-11-2017, 05:39 PM
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Connect the volt meter to the pos and neg post of the battery. look at the voltage reading. while looking at the meter turn the key on and see if voltage drops again. If it doesn't drop press the starter button and see if it drops. if the voltage drops on either of these test, your battery needs charging, or it's bad. Have you tried to jump the bike with jumper cable?
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-11-2017, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skypilot 69 View Post
Connect the volt meter to the pos and neg post of the battery. look at the voltage reading. while looking at the meter turn the key on and see if voltage drops again. If it doesn't drop press the starter button and see if it drops. if the voltage drops on either of these test, your battery needs charging, or it's bad. Have you tried to jump the bike with jumper cable?
That was actually going to be my next move . I thought of that after I packed it in for the day. If it does drop, that would mean that the battery can no longer handle the load, correct? Hence meaning it needs to be replaced.

The battery is charged (between 12.80 to 12.90V)
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-11-2017, 06:47 PM
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When you turn the ignition on, the headlight is automatically turned on. With the volt meter connected to the battery if voltage drops considerably when the ignition is turned on, that means the battery is not strong enough to burn the headlight. That would mean the battery is bad, or needs a good charge.

A 12v battery consist of 6 cells that are 2.2v each therefore a fully charged battery should read 13.2v When you crank the bike and give it a little throttle the voltage should increase to about 14v if the charging system is working properly.
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-11-2017, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uyerion View Post
UPDATE:



Did the above tests today:
- When testing between the battery side of the relay and frame I got good voltage.
- With the same test points, I turned the key to the "ON" position and the voltage dropped to around 4V.
)
See my above post. You can do every check and test imaginable at this point, but until you load test that "good voltage" battery (to find out its junk) and replace it, you'll get no where. I've been down this road countless times with customers that have "new" "good" batteries that refuse to believe you until load test in front of them.
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-11-2017, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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When the issue first arose I figured it had lost its charge. So that was the first thing I did after getting towed it home. The battery is only about a year old, so I hadn't figured it would have gone bad already. But I am definitely going to load test it anyway because you can never be too sure.
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-11-2017, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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*Slaps had* Ugh.

Out of curiosity I Googled the battery that I had purchased from Advance Auto.
Its the AutoCraft Power Sport 12-BS
Apparently many people have had problems with this being a very short-lived battery, lasting about 4-8 months before becoming an oversize paperweight.

I'm going to run the load tests tomorrow and probably (and ironically) take it to Advance Auto for them to test it. Depending out the outcome, I have just learned a valuable lesson about motorcycle batteries.
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-11-2017, 10:42 PM
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If it's still under warranty, swap it out and use it until you can get another of better reputation. Keep that one on the shelf and give it a charge once a month or so. If you don't already have one, get a "smart" charger too (battery tender jr or the like) and just plug in whenever you park it for more than a few days. As mentioned, my battery that just gave it up (literally started a 1200cc 4cyl then crapped itself to 4 volts within 30 seconds) was a Walmart branded cheapy, but lasted without hiccup for the 4.5 years I've owned the bike. I don't know when the p.o. installed it. All my bike batteries have been great (knocks wood) and get a steady rotation on a single tender jr.
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-12-2017, 01:17 AM
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The AutoCraft Power Sport 12-BS battery is about a year old, but only guaranteed for 90 days. It's not cheap either... Yours does show symptoms of a crapped out battery.

I just ordered a new Always Get Motoring AGM battery (1 YEAR FREE REPLACEMENT) to replace my 10 year old original Yuasa made in China.

AGM12-BS agm12-bs/ytx12-bs saskbattery.com

Yuasa YTX12-BS YUASA YTX12-BS $95.00 FREE FREIGHT SASKBATTERY.COM

Yuasa charger YUA1200901 YUASA 12V CHARGER SASKBATTERY.COM
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Last edited by invader; 06-13-2017 at 05:23 AM.
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