just one thing after another.... chain trouble again... - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-26-2017, 03:50 PM Thread Starter
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just one thing after another.... chain trouble again...

if its not one thing its another
went to take my roommate up to his moms place in vancover and got to the gas station just at the end of gresham and when i was leaving the light i noticed some crunchy poppy noises...* oh great what now?* look at my chain and it kinda looks a bit on the looser end.. (i just tightened it like 200 miles ago) hop on the bike and pull forward a bit *crunch pop* look at chain again. now it a bit on the tight side (i like my chain a bit closer to the loose side of spec) , roll the bike back a bit and chains looser.... great i got a tight spot ... the chain is only had a bit over 5k on it and sprockets i dont know for sure but records from P.O say 14k on them.but dont look to bad... ive used my motion pro alignment tool every time i adjust it and it looks good to me now but calipers show a difference in the adjuster block and swing arm distance (shown in pictures, take in mine my calipers are HF cheapies) and also after taking the front sprocket cover off i was greeted my a ton of old chain grease and road grime( expected that) and a bunch of shinny bits O.O (was not expecting that) shown in pics...
and also if on the stant i spin the rear tire for a few cycles of the chain i feel hot spots on some of the rollers but ice cold on the rest
on a better note my MPG on the last tank (most of it used before i got the new air filter in) went back up a bit to 46mpg VS. the 40.6 i got last tank >.>
and i cleaned up the hall effect sensor so maybe my speedometer will quit jumping up and down +/-1mph all the time...
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Last edited by silviefox; 05-26-2017 at 03:58 PM.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-26-2017, 09:02 PM
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Replace your chain with an X Ring type ASAP along with both sprockets, rear does not look great either. Get a rivet tool rather than using the removeable master link which can fail. OEM O ring chains are notoriously cheap quality.

Lots of how to videos on YouTube, not a big job to do although you will need breaker bar or impact wrench to remove small sprocket. Don't forget to bend away locking plate first before attempting to loosen.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-26-2017, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twowheels View Post
Replace your chain with an X Ring type ASAP along with both sprockets, rear does not look great either. Get a rivet tool rather than using the removeable master link which can fail. OEM O ring chains are notoriously cheap quality.

Lots of how to videos on YouTube, not a big job to do although you will need breaker bar or impact wrench to remove small sprocket. Don't forget to bend away locking plate first before attempting to loosen.
if you read above i stated that chain is only 5000 miles old so not the stock one its a tyc o-ring chain (was put on by the previous owner)
and right now i cant afford a new tool and new chain and sprockets...... and also in all my years of riding ive never had a clip fail....but i do understand some peoples fears

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Silvie=latin for. Of the forest /woods. Fox= Vulpine (also my middle name)

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-27-2017, 07:08 AM
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Silviefox... your chain looks rather dry and bare of any lube.

Using verier calipers for measuring the adjuster blocks to be equal on both side most probably wont work for chain alignment. Most of the time the welding of the ends of the swing arm are not in perfect alignment ie distance from the front can be unequal - and so the alignment marks and forward plate may not be equal both sides.

Once you align the chain, you can take measurements for Left and Right side blocks and then use that as base reference when adjusting the chain so that you have same difference before and after adjustment.

Oh and when you change the tyre... you should put the blocks back the same way as the hole might not be at the center of the blocks which will then change your measurements again for alignment.

fun with tolerances yay!
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Last edited by Gigitt; 05-27-2017 at 07:10 AM.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-27-2017, 11:18 AM
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The sprockets don't look "bad" to me but all that shiny stuff on the inside of the cover isn't good. Speaks to a dry chain......
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-27-2017, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duffy View Post
The sprockets don't look "bad" to me but all that shiny stuff on the inside of the cover isn't good. Speaks to a dry chain......
ya took the chain off and soaked it in some 20-50 oil then massaged (worked it back and forth) the links till they all moved easier (about 5 links were really tight and hard to move at first) then coated the inside runners with Valvoline high temp red grease(all i have on hand) chain is defiantly stretched in some spots as my chain still has a tight spot. but at least i took it to the post office and it wasnt crunching and popping this time

yes im a guy.
Silvie=latin for. Of the forest /woods. Fox= Vulpine (also my middle name)

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-27-2017, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twowheels View Post
...OEM O ring chains are notoriously cheap quality....
Respectfully I disagree w/ you. The OEM chain on my '08 lasted MORE than 55,000 MILES, w/ WD40 used as the ONLY lube/cleaner from new. Bill Watson (of "thermo-bob" fame) is an engineer and took my chain after I'd replaced it due to it being 'noisy', inspected it, then said that it was STILL GOOD, as it had only one 'noisy' link, but otherwise was w/in "spec". (I ride a lot of desert roads on that bike, as well as pavement.)

-



The rear-sprocket was the cause of the replacement - it was the OEM one which I'd 'reversed' at around 30K miles - tho' I changed the front sprocket a couple of times.


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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-27-2017, 03:46 PM
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ya took the chain off and soaked it in some 20-50 oil then massaged (worked it back and forth) the links till they all moved easier (about 5 links were really tight and hard to move at first) then coated the inside runners with Valvoline high temp red grease(all i have on hand) chain is defiantly stretched in some spots as my chain still has a tight spot. but at least i took it to the post office and it wasnt crunching and popping this time
Soaked the chain in 20w50 then put high temp grease on it??? I think you may want to just invest in some good chain lube and apply it often. That oil and grease will attract dirt like crazy. And if the chain is that bad, where you have a really tight spot in it, I'd replace it no matter how few miles are on it.

I don't care what you ride, just ride.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-27-2017, 09:59 PM
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Silvia your chain looks drier than toast. I use Maxima Chain Wax and I don't mean lightly either. I have a piece of cardboard and stick it between the chain and tire and I soak the (warm) chain making sure to get between the chain plates the I let the bike sit over night.

I am seeing 25,000 PLUS mile on my drive line set and I've only adjusted it twice. When you have to adjust the chain all the time that's when it's a goner and it's time to order a new set.

Or was that look THEN leap?
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-27-2017, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james75 View Post
Soaked the chain in 20w50 then put high temp grease on it??? I think you may want to just invest in some good chain lube and apply it often. That oil and grease will attract dirt like crazy. And if the chain is that bad, where you have a really tight spot in it, I'd replace it no matter how few miles are on it.
thats why i normally just use silicon wd40 (and its because its what i have on hand) and i dont have the money to replace the chain and sprockets right now.my husbands car is starting to have trouble and i dont know how were going to replace it

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Silvia your chain looks drier than toast. I use Maxima Chain Wax and I don't mean lightly either. I have a piece of cardboard and stick it between the chain and tire and I soak the (warm) chain making sure to get between the chain plates the I let the bike sit over night.

I am seeing 25,000 PLUS mile on my drive line set and I've only adjusted it twice. When you have to adjust the chain all the time that's when it's a goner and it's time to order a new set.
ok ted next time i go into town ill look for some of that

yes im a guy.
Silvie=latin for. Of the forest /woods. Fox= Vulpine (also my middle name)

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-28-2017, 08:58 AM
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maxima chain wax is good stuff. I clean my chain with diesel fuel, and a brush. wipe the diesel fuel off, then take a short ride to sling off any remaining diesel fuel, and to get the chain warm. Next spray the chain good with chain wax. The important part is to let the bike sit overnight before riding. this gives the spray wax time to solidify.
Maxima 74908 Chain Wax 8oz./5.5oz. Net WT. | eBay
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-28-2017, 10:30 AM
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When Grease is Gone So is Chain

Quote:
Originally Posted by james75 View Post
Soaked the chain in 20w50 then put high temp grease on it??? I think you may want to just invest in some good chain lube and apply it often. That oil and grease will attract dirt like crazy. And if the chain is that bad, where you have a really tight spot in it, I'd replace it no matter how few miles are on it.
Unless you plan on soaking your chain every day or have a oiler on the bike, your chain is shot, lots of good info here, wasn't planning on posting as maintenance negligence is the root cause. My understanding of chain lube , is to keep the area around the "O" rings lubed, which keeps the grease inside and the dirt out.
One last word, a clip link isn't legal in Ontario Canada, the clip link is the weakest link in the chain, after several postings recently of chain failure due to clip links , you would think a rivet link would be the way to go.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-28-2017, 10:55 AM
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the clip link is the weakest link in the chain, after several postings recently of chain failure due to clip links , you would think a rivet link would be the way to go.
True that.

I found a Moose Race Chain Rivet tool kit for about half the labor rate that works great to both press out the out rivet (IE break the chain) and then to press in the ne rivets.

I do keep a clip type link on the bikes for a "Just In Cass" repair on the side of the road. Remember with a clip type link it on with the closed end facing the direction the chain turns. Put them on backwards and they'll pop right off. THIS is just to get me home and I've only used it once in many MANY years.
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