(&#$! snapped the TPS bolt - replacement #? - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-05-2017, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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if you got a part of it thats still good you can take it to lowes or homedepot (or any hardware store) and they can tell you what size and thread it is or you can use one of there cheater boards... http://www.threadtoolsupply.com/wall...d-checker.html

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-05-2017, 04:37 PM
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Check the parts fiches on someplace like BikeBandit.

IF you can remove the remainder of your broken bolt, you should be able to get a replacement at any good bolt store.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-05-2017, 06:07 PM
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You might want to follow Silvie's advice, unless someone happens to know the info. For the 2010+ model, the "throttle assembly" is mostly sold as a whole unit-- not many parts available individually from big K. This includes the TPS itself-- not sold separately. Not sure about all models, but the OEM is probably consistant in its supply (or lack thereof) in the V650 lineup.


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Originally Posted by silviefox View Post
if you got a part of it thats still good you can take it to lowes or homedepot (or any hardware store) and they can tell you what size and thread it is or you can use one of there cheater boards... Wall Mounted Thread Checker - Bolt, Screw & Nut Identification Tool

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-05-2017, 07:30 PM
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Tried Two Suppliers

I have been to two suppliers, no parts breakdown on that throttle body, in fact I went through the manual, no torque rating for the bolt, even though they give voltage settings. You need to measure the diameter and length then get the thread pitch, best bet is like Silvie said, go to a bolt supplier with the broken pieces .
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-05-2017, 08:17 PM
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Thread detective - Ball style

Ouch! I feel your pain.
Years ago I have purchased a Ball Style Thread Dectective (both metric and SAE). This has to be one of the most useful tools in my garage. It is extremely useful when needing to find the specs of a metric/SAE bolt or nut.



Good luck!

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-05-2017, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Mongoose View Post
So can confirm that PO BS was afoot with my TPS Sensor, as i checked the voltages and they were waaay off. Marking on the side was skewed as well, so it looks like they adjusted it pretty aggressively-- Voltages were at like 1.140v throttle closed, when spec is 1.035v max @ no throttle.

Anyways, so i pull the bolt out to look at it, and it sort of has a "thin" section (think like an hour glass), which makes me a little uneasy. Sure enough, bolt had been overtorqued and stretched, and as I was dialing it back in-- SNAP.

#($*)(#@!!!

Now i'm pouring over the parts fiche trying to find that stupid torx bolt, or at least get the size so i can match up a replacement.

Can anyone throw me a bone here?
Your idle position main throttle position sensor voltage output is at 1.14V because you checked it with engine cold when throttle valves are slightly more open at fast idle position.

I'll have the screw's thread and size, and links for some nice titanium, stainless steel, or high-strength ones in a couple hours.
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Last edited by invader; 02-05-2017 at 10:29 PM.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-05-2017, 10:13 PM
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Metric Tap & Die Set

Quote:
Originally Posted by quexpress View Post
Ouch! I feel your pain.
Years ago I have purchased a Ball Style Thread Dectective (both metric and SAE). This has to be one of the most useful tools in my garage. It is extremely useful when needing to find the specs of a metric/SAE bolt or nut.



Good luck!
Years ago I worked on many metric pieces of equipment, I purchased a good metric tap and die set, in that set was a thread gauge both inch and metric, many years later I wanted a inch set so bought a complete cheap tap and die set from Canadian tire, the dies are really thread chasers, as you would be hard pressed to cut a new thread on round stock. So when in doubt, measure the OD then check the thread pitch. The other option with a cheap tap and die set, measure the OD, say it is 8mm, take a 8mm tap that looks the same, the thread of the bolt should mesh into the tap if it is the correct pitch, in fact theoretically you could rotate the bolt in the tap and clean the threads. I usually run my removed bolts through the die, before reinstalling, as I use blue locitite on almost everything, this way I can spin the bolts in using my fingers with vary little force, once tight the locitite sets up in about 3 minutes. FYI they make dry locitite for several years now, which can be re used, personally I like the liquid, on bolts smaller than M10, use it extremely sparingly as it could act as permanent ( red).
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-05-2017, 10:25 PM
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M5 (0.8mm thread) x 15mm (or 16mm)

It should be the same size and length as your windscreen bolts... Any motorcycle shop should have some in stock. You also need a washer and a lock washer.

Titanium- Torx drive: Titanium M5 x 16mm Button Head Cap Screw BHCS T25 Torx Drive Star 6LOBE | eBay

Black Oxide Class 12.9 Extreme Strength- Allen drive: 5mm x 0 80 x 16mm Qty 10 Button Head Socket Cap Screws 12 9 Alloy Steel M5 | eBay

Stainless Steel- Allen drive: M5 x 8 8mm 40mm Button Head Socket Cap Stainless Steel A2 304 ISO 7380 | eBay
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Last edited by invader; 02-05-2017 at 11:01 PM.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
..... make dry Loctite for several years now, which can be re-used
I have always used blue Loctite. After removing a bolt I replace it with the previously treated Loctite still on the bolt. No need to re-apply Loctite and the bolt will still have the same holding characteristics. I found that to be true on Norton Commandos and they could act like a paint shaker when idling. I do wipe off any dirt, oil etc before reusing.

The blue Loctite simply fills in any slight gaps in the threaded part or nut, it does not "glue" the parts together- the red Loctite does that.
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