AudioVox ccs-100 Cruise Control - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 70 (permalink) Old 08-20-2008, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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AudioVox ccs-100 Cruise Control

Has anyone tried mounting one of these systems to the Versys?

Got any input feel free, I am about to go there.

Possible problems:
1. No room for servo and vacuum tank??
After researching, seems the vacuum tank is not needed in all cases, just a one way vacuum valve from napa may work.
May be room for servo on left side under seat/battery area.

2. LED brake light may present a problem to the electonics that shut off CC??
A relay triggered by brake circuit should fix this problem.

3. How to mount to the throttles without creating a future problem area, ie.. CC cable does not tangle with throttles or cause them to lockup?
May be possible to drill and tap a 6-32 hole on the idle adjust tab to mount control cable, but this would have to pull from front.

Okay, building a bellcrank to attach to the throttle assembly is the main problem, it appears that removing the end piece (where the throttle cables attach) is a major no no. Adjusted at the factory so I willl not go there. I will attempt to build a little bolt-on/clamp type bell crank for the CC to attach. 8/2/08 DONE.

4. Some motorcycles have reported a problem tripping the CC off with clutch causing the motor to rev up??
A relay triggered by starter lockout switch (pulling the clutch) will solve this on the Versys.
I have been unable to hookup a relay to clutch circuit as of 8/9/08.

Related links: http://www.frontiernet.net/~st1300ri...-16-05/ecc.htm
http://74.50.1.242/ralphuscruisecont...allation.shtml

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Last edited by versys_guy; 09-08-2008 at 05:00 AM.
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post #2 of 70 (permalink) Old 08-20-2008, 08:48 PM
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Wish I could contribute, but I can't. I will however, be watching this thread because I've been wondering the same thing. I had a colleague that installed on on a Yamaha cruiser and then moved it over to a BMW touring bike I think. He spoke very highly of the unit. I gathered from him that the install was not terribly complicated.

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post #3 of 70 (permalink) Old 08-22-2008, 11:17 AM
 
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There were a large number of folks on the ST-Riders board that made this conversion. With the big 4 cyl engines, there was a toss-up of those that needed the vacuum reservoir and those that didn't. Both 1100 and 1300 engines were converted.

The use of the chain was very important in the cable linkage as it provided the slack to ensure the CC didn't interfere with normal daily use of the throttle when the CC was switched off.

Red
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post #4 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-02-2008, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, Gustav came through this morning (Shreveport) so we have been getting rain for the last 24 hours.

Ran to Radio Shack and picked up some relays and blade connectors.

Installed servo on left side at front of gas tank and inside fairing. Used stock mount, just had to trim off bottom of one side so it would fit. Mounted it on top left bolt of radiator trim cover. Had to move the vacuum switch that connects to our vacuum mod as it was in the way. Just put it below its mount and Audiovox servo mounts fine, clears forks by 1/8", whew.

Ran cable from servo down left side below tank then under the battery tray and under the shock on right side. There is an unused tab (6mm nut) on the right that I bent in towards engine to make a proper mount and allign with throttle. Mounted my homemade throttle link.

Tomorrow will attack the wiring and vacuum hookup. Also making an adaptor for the clutch housing mount on handlebar so I can make a mount for the controls.

I know which wires to hook to I believe but must find them with easy access. Plan to test it first with the dianostic led on servo then make final wireing. Lots of excess wire to get rid of when I figure out where to connect to.

1. Audiovox tach = BLUE Versys = LIGHT BLUE (at the dash)
2. Audiovox VSS (speed) = GRAY Versys = PINK (I didn't use this hookup)
3. Audiovox brake = PURPLE Versys = BLUE w RED TRACER (at taillight)
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Last edited by versys_guy; 09-06-2008 at 06:23 AM.
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post #5 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-02-2008, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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I will take some pictures tomorrow when I take the radiator trim off to get to the vacuum hookup on servo so you can see the stock mount modified from servo.

There are several ways to make a throttle connection, I chose to not disturb the stock throttle and just clamp to the outer part so as not to interfere with the throttle cables. I turned the 6061 part on the lathe and under cut so it would grab the throttle and not let go hopefully. If it turns out that it slips then I will most likely drill and tap the part for 10-32 bolt and drill a hole to receive in throttle.
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post #6 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-05-2008, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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Welp, I'm at the arrrgggg part of the install. Everything connected and linkage good to go, but no activation of servo.

Diagnostics LED (on Audiovox servo) shows all switches working except when you put the brake on.

Tested vacuum, check valve works. Versys is rated at about 10in/HG, which should be plenty to run servo???

I suspect the LED tail/brake light is killing the deal. I used a relay for the trip, supplies 12V when brake on, but no go. Hooked directly to the brakelight wire, also supplies 12V when the brakelight is on, no go.

Talked to Audiovox tech (course they do not support motorcycles) but he did say that I should get the dianostic LED to light when applying brake, so. I get no light, so system thinks brake is on or the brakelight bulb is burned out (safety feature for Audiovox)???

Any LED brakelight vs Old style bulb gurus out there? For the life of me I can not understand why it doesn't work when it shows 12V on the meter when tripped, what am I missing here?

After thought, think the standard bulb is acting like a resistor to ground where the LED doesn't.
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Last edited by versys_guy; 09-06-2008 at 06:39 AM.
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post #7 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-05-2008, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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Trying a fix around the LED taillight no ground problem, will use a relay with the Versys brakelight wire as trigger for the relay. A standard 1157 bulb is hooked to ground and to the PURPLE wire to the Cruise Control, this should trick the CC to believe a real brake light is on.

Will test in the morning.

P.S. Rats, the picture is not very clear. The brown wire is the trigger from stock taillight wiring. The red goes to power of Cruise Control Servo. Brown on near side of relay is ground and also is soldered to the bulb. The other side (looks like a red wire going there but it is a brown one) gets power when relay is triggered and lights the bulb.

The CC saga continues. Tested today, still no go, but I can feel the motor cutting out (air leak) when I try to engage CC. I used fuel line for the vacuum hose mod several weeks ago, and think it is leaking. Going in and changing all that out. Check back later.

Built Reservoir Vacuum Tank out of 1-1/2" x 6" PVC pipe and 2 caps. Installed vacuum check valve (from autoparts store) and T fitting (from audiovox stuff) with 2 ton epoxy. Will mount above servo on left side between gas tank and side fairing.
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Last edited by versys_guy; 09-08-2008 at 05:04 AM.
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post #8 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-09-2008, 01:13 PM
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Versys guy

If the problem is in the brake circuit you can confirm by running the purple wire from the servo directly to ground and seeing if it will set. I installed a relay and used the brake wire under the seat as the trigger. I have had my ccs-100 installed and working for several months now without any problems. I have installed the audivox unit several times and the only problem I have had was with this installation. The problem ended up being one of the dip switches was not set to on or off from the factory. It was in the middle of its throw. The vacuum cannister will not stop the cruise from setting. It is to supply extra vacuum to the servo when it needs it to maintain speed when going up hills.

This is what I did for my brake hook up...

Regular SPDT 5-Pin Relay (Single Pole Double Throw Relay):
- Purple wire from Servo to terminal 30.
- Ground terminals 87a and 85.
- Put a plug on terminal 87 (not used).
- Brake pedal wire to terminal 86.

I'm assuming you have the blinking light indicating a good signal from your coil and a flash from the LED when you have the system on and you push the set button. When the brake signal is good it will light the LEd on the servo when you push the brake peddle.

If you have it working congrats if not maybe something here will help.

David
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post #9 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-09-2008, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Wngrr, thanks for the reply and help.

Still trying all possibilities. Ditched the 1-1/2" x 6" vacuum reservoir and just glued up a 2" x 6" with checkvalve. Waiting for the epoxy to cure.

I have it half working, that is, it will engage say at 55mph, jumps up to 57 on engage, then holds for like 1 or 2 seconds then tapers to a slow decel. Seems like a vacuum leak.

I took the head off the servo 10 minutes ago and put grease on the 3 O-rings that seal the vacuum pipes to the diaphram unit.

I do get light at led for ON, SET, ACCEL and blinking from my tach input (light blue from dash on the Versys), but I get no light when I light brake light.
Okay, just grounded the purple to frame and it did light the LED. I got you now, looks like I need another/different relay. Thanks for turning my light bulb on!!

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post #10 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-09-2008, 02:46 PM
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Sounds like you are on the right track in looking for a vacuum leak. If you have access to a vacuum gauge you can find out really fast if you have issues. I use a long piece of vacuum hose to tie into the system and zip tie the gauge up around to bars so I can see it while i ride. I didn't want to hassle with building a vacuum tank so I have pruchased one with a built in check valve. I got the latest one from Murphs.

I also used one of thier relay harnesses on this install and really liked it.

What do you have your dip switches set?

When you get the bugs worked out you will love it.
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post #11 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-09-2008, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
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Already love it, but it is like Microsoft at this point, boot it up and then it blows up, must reboot.

I never got the brake light to light the LED before so I am addressing that problem first.

I do have a vacuum guage and it showed 12in/HG but drops to zero when engage sometimes and then trys to hold at 5 in/HG. That is what got me going on the vacuum leak. No leak at tank or servo diaphram while static tho, figured it must be the solenoids valves that might be leaking.

What did you do to connect linkage to throttle? I built a custom deal for lack of being able to do something simple.

P.S. Just did a test run, nothing. Will put on the new vacuum reservoir also think one of my vacuum lines might be bad (really is a fuel line) so going to replace throttle body 2 with good vacuum line so all will be done right.

My dip switches:
1. off 5000ppm
2. on
3. off tach only
4. on light weight vehicles high HP
5. off
6. off control switch normally open
7. off tach source ECM

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post #12 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-09-2008, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I must have a defective Audioivox. I have all the correct lights, no vacuum leaks and tank now shows 18in/HG between tank and servo, more than I had with the smaller tank. But now, I get nothing, none of the solenoids are working, will not engage servo diaphram. Done for the day, golf tomorrow and next day, then maybe try and get AudioVox to give me a replacement.

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post #13 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-09-2008, 08:10 PM
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You might try moving all of the dip switches to the wrong position and then back to the correct. I had the same issues until i found one dip switch was not completely in the correct postion. Do you have the led for the brake now?

i drilled a hole in the bell crank at the end of the throttle shaft and used the small bolt and eyelet that came with the kit.

I have read of some people having problems with the system because they didn't have a full 12 volts on the power line to the servo. I dought that is the problem since the servo is responding correctly, but might be worth checking.

good luck..
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post #14 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-09-2008, 08:14 PM
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Also, my dip settings are the same except for the first. I'm pretty sure I used 2000 ppm but that wouldn't keep the servo from setting.
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post #15 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-10-2008, 06:04 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wngrr View Post
You might try moving all of the dip switches to the wrong position and then back to the correct. I had the same issues until i found one dip switch was not completely in the correct postion. Do you have the led for the brake now?
Yep, did that, moved all dip switches just in case, course they were all seated, at least felt like it. I do have the brake light now, it comes on after you release the brake.
Quote:
i drilled a hole in the bell crank at the end of the throttle shaft and used the small bolt and eyelet that came with the kit.
If you could post a picture of that other Versys owners might use it. Not many people are going to the trouble I did building a custom clamp out of 6061.
Quote:
I have read of some people having problems with the system because they didn't have a full 12 volts on the power line to the servo. I dought that is the problem since the servo is responding correctly, but might be worth checking.

My power was coming from brake, but I changed it to fused power from battery ign on. Will check voltage.

good luck..
Thanks

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Last edited by versys_guy; 09-10-2008 at 06:06 AM.
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post #16 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-10-2008, 06:07 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Also, my dip settings are the same except for the first. I'm pretty sure I used 2000 ppm but that wouldn't keep the servo from setting.
I started at 4000 but it jerked really hard when setting.

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post #17 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-12-2008, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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Sent the servo back to AudioVox to repair thursday 9/11/08. I am confident it will be working when I get it back. More later.

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post #18 of 70 (permalink) Old 12-31-2008, 08:52 AM
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Hi versys guy, did you ever get this working? I want to install the same thing on my V and had been reading your thread with great interest.
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post #19 of 70 (permalink) Old 12-31-2008, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
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Hi versys guy, did you ever get this working? I want to install the same thing on my V and had been reading your thread with great interest.
Yes and No. I got it all mounted (no small feat) but had trouble with the LED brake light not allowing it to set or turn off correctly. I used a relay off the brake light and then a normal 1057 bulb soldered across the relay to trick it to properly load the circuit so it would activate.

Never did identify the clutch switch wire code to also cancel CC.

The vacuum hookup messes with the throttle bodies on low speed. I also used a vacuum tank made out of 2" PVC. It all will fit on left side under cowl believe it or not, ha. The cable must snake all the way around and under the tail section and back to the throttle.

I will give you the little aluminum piece I machined to clamp over the throttle wheel if you want to try it.

I have a Tiger 1050 now (sold the Versys right in the middle of this mod) and will be hooking up the CC on it this spring probably.

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post #20 of 70 (permalink) Old 12-31-2008, 09:26 AM
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That would be really awesome, I would be happy to cover your shipping to me for it. Please PM so I can paypal you a few bucks. To pay it forward I will add to your detailed thread with my own installation process, hopefully I will find the clues to the items you ran out of time to troubleshoot. BTW, love the Tiger, good luck with it.
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