Unstable idle rpm - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-05-2016, 06:54 AM Thread Starter
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Unstable idle rpm

Hi everyone,

I have checked old post but couldnt find a solution. So here is my problem. When I start the bike idle goes around 2000rpm and when it is how enough it lowers the idle down to 1300rpm which is totally OK. After a ride of around 30km assume that I stopped at the lights gear is set to 1st and clutch is pulled. idle is around 2000rpm and it is searching. When I set the gear to natural rpm goes around 1500 but it is intended to increase. If I forcefully close the throttle rpm is set to 1300.

Local services and dealers are doing sh*ty job so I shoul go to them with facts and some information. I highly appreciate if someone guide me about what might be the problem.

Thanks already.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-05-2016, 07:53 AM
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Year and mileage? Any recent maintenance done?
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-05-2016, 09:57 AM
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Many Things

Rather than figuring out the cause/trouble shooting:

#1 -Make sure you have checked your frame ground/ remove connections and make sure they are clean and the mounting is clean, use dielectric grease sparingly after. Also check engine ground which is about 5 inches from the starter , behind the clutch lever.The ECU depends on these for proper operation.
#2-when off the bike, go full throttle with motor off, release the throttle, does the throttle cam return to stop position? If not you may need to lube the cable/replace it.If yes, do the same but with steering full right, try again, it has been known to have a pinched cable
#3-How old is the coolant in the bike, not as common, but a stuck stat could cause problems.

Give a lot of thought to your reply, read it over, try and see if what you are describing is clear to you, if not edit it, then post.What you posted is difficult to follow,as to what is taking place.


I would ask Fasteddie for his opinion, usually has some old words of wisdom

Last edited by onewizard; 12-05-2016 at 12:13 PM.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-05-2016, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry for lack of given information about the bike. It is 2015 model Versys 650 ABS and it is 24500km. 24000km service maintenance was recently done. Coolant has changed during service maintenance as well. Throttle cam works fairly, it returns to initial position without a problem. In old posts I came across with possible TPS problems. I'm thinking to write to local distributor and want to learn if there is a kind of diagnose device which might tell the issue.

Last edited by longliveversys; 12-05-2016 at 04:09 PM. Reason: typo
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-05-2016, 09:55 PM
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My first suggestion was check frame ground, it is a 2015, 24000 service done, valve shim check? If so, the air box was off, the throttle cam was likely loosened to get the airbox off, several connections/ hoses to the airbox were removed/ replaced ( myself I would be going back to the dealer and letting them fix it for free rather than posting on this forum), several connectors were removed, one of them is on the airbox
Another member had a similar problem, associated with the airbox. They may have not tightened the clamp, air could be bypassing the airbox, because the 2015 is a closed loop, this could cause all kinds of weird goings on, just remember the 2015 engine is rubber mounted,the motor can flex, the airbox sort of floats on the rubber intakes and throttle bodies etc., it also can flex.

Trust me, the main reason I and many others on this forum started doing our own work, wasn't just to save money, but I along with many others have gotten the bikes back, with missing bolts, loose bolts, chain/ wheel not aligned / proper slack . Paid for work that wasn't done, had work done but no records of what the clearances were on the valve shim check, oh, the $400 dollars wasn't enough, need $200 more to write down on paper, yup ,next time do it yourself. Seems complicated?? Enough of us on here that if you know what a torque wrench is and which end to hold, you can do it. If you lack the confidence and the tools, get a shop to do the work, before you do that, ask for local guys that have had it done and which shop they used. Good and honest dealerships are hard to find, ones with honest mechanics are even harder to find.
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Last edited by onewizard; 12-05-2016 at 10:12 PM.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-06-2016, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
When I start the bike idle goes around 2000rpm and when it is how enough it lowers the idle down to 1300rpm which is totally OK
Care to rephrase? lol
I don't understand your problem; when it is 'how' enough: low or hot? I will suspect 'hot'
Cold bike runs idles faster, it's normal. Old ninja 650 did that too. Think of it as an electronic choke.

I do have an oscillating idle rpm problem when hot; that is likely a very different problem involving the some valve I can hear flap every second or so. (reed valve? air switching valve?)
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-06-2016, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onewizard View Post

Trust me, the main reason I and many others on this forum started doing our own work, wasn't just to save money, but I along with many others have gotten the bikes back, with missing bolts, loose bolts, chain/ wheel not aligned / proper slack . Paid for work that wasn't done, had work done but no records of what the clearances were on the valve shim check, oh, the $400 dollars wasn't enough, need $200 more to write down on paper, yup ,next time do it yourself. Seems complicated?? Enough of us on here that if you know what a torque wrench is and which end to hold, you can do it. If you lack the confidence and the tools, get a shop to do the work, before you do that, ask for local guys that have had it done and which shop they used. Good and honest dealerships are hard to find, ones with honest mechanics are even harder to find.
This is so true!!

I can't count the times I have had to fix what mechanics have messed up on my vehicles over the years. The very first thing I buy for every new vehicle is a good shop manual. If you have to buy tools for a job or task, it's almost always cheaper than paying someone else to do the job anyway. In my 30+ years of wrenching I have put together quite a collection of special tools for vehicles I will never work on again.
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The urge to buy terrorizes
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-06-2016, 09:36 AM
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Wink Tools $$$$/ Service$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Quote:
Originally Posted by ItsForrest View Post
This is so true!!.
You will find at the beginning that the cost of special tools , torque wrench , half moon wrenches, feeler gauges, micrometer, good digital meter( Note at bottom), good oil filter wrench/socket drive, oil filling funnel system that attaches to the new oil jug/ CW shut off ( Canadian Tire, will post in sticky), and the list goes on, so the cost will probably be equal to 1/2 to 3/4 of the cost of getting it done, after the first time, the cost would be about 1/5 the cost.

Here is a example that happened recently; Mentioned oil change, I purchased filter from my honest dealer for $12 Canadian each, Mobile 1 15/50 on sale at Canadian Tire around $9 a liter, total cost for the oil change $35 with tax**** someone else with a 2015 identical to my bike $150 done at the dealer. We have a recycling program, put the used oil out with the recycling material in a original container, mark it used , and it is gone with the rest of the trash, except it gets recycled!!

The valve shim check is a excellent example of savings, about the only thing you should need to buy, if you have been wrenching for 6 months is a go/ no go feeler gauges, a 1/4 inch drive torque wrench, a good micrometer that goes to 0.0001 " and if a 2015, a set of half moon wrenches with a 12 mm !
Total cost about $100, to get it done if shims required about $600, if a MK-1 or MK-2 , expect to pay about $150 more for the same work, as more labour is involved in removing installing the plastic.

Note:
( anyone looking for a good meter, I may start a sticky on, many used Fluke meters that were built like a tank and cost $800 when new are going for $30 to $60, I still own several of these, why, because the magnetic /emf/ shielding was superior to today's meters, hard to believe but true, if there is interest, post a new thread, Good Used Digital Meters)

Last edited by onewizard; 12-06-2016 at 11:49 AM. Reason: Looks Like The people Involved with the Polaris Regulator Pricing have Joined Ebay and are selling Fluke 8020 Series meters
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