7600 Miles Maintenance Question - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-31-2016, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy 7600 Miles Maintenance Question

Hi Everyone,

My 2015 Versys is almost on 7000 miles.As I saw on Maintenance Schedule, it should be done some checks by dealer.
I would like to do all maintenance by myself.But these maintenance –below- looks quiet unknown by me
Is there anybody who already did these maintenance by himself and can just encourage me to do also
I appreciate all answers as always.

By the way Happy Hallowen..

*Engine Vacuum Syncronization
*Evaporative Emission Control System
*Coolant System.
*Air Suction System


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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-31-2016, 10:45 PM
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-01-2016, 07:18 AM
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Ripley's Believe it or NOT

, although could use editing, not everyone has english as a second language!!


http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...o-problem.html This is a link to his other thread.

Could explain a lot, sounds you need to read your owners manual.As a new member there has been people pretending to own a Versys, ask stupid questions, then post a series of Spam Messages,FYI those people got the boot real fast . Having stated you have payed a dealer to do two services, when only the first is somewhat necessary, would indicate you are limited in your skills/ knowledge to work on the bike.If that is the case, some have had the valve shim check done at 10,000 to 12000 KM. That is probably the most expensive work you will ever do on your bike, if you check the owners manual, you will find that you are less than halfway in miles according to the recommended mileage by Kawasaki.

So what I am saying, if you are capable of doing the valve shim check yourself, you don't plan on riding it for a while and have nothing better to do,then go ahead, some really excellent step by step instructions on this forum, many that have done it are members here and would be able to answer questions as they come along. Be aware, some special tools will be required; go no go feeler gauges, a 1/4 or 3/8 drive torque wrench, some carbide sand paper 300 or finer, a long allen wrench to remove the air box, a few basic tools and sockets. The largest cost is in removing /replacing the plastic and other components to get at the valve shims , many have stated their dealer checked and everything was in spec, however the dealer couldn't give the dimensions of clearances when asked, which makes one question was it really done?

I did my check of the 07 at 29,000 KM , I found all in spec except one exhaust valve, which was very close to failing, even though the other 7 were in spec, I sanded all 8 of them to meet the maximum clearance spec, should be good for 30,000 plus KM.

Hope this helps, FYI , I provided a link to your other thread, which has detail, next time you can copy and paste or edit so everyone that reads your post is well informed , we are all newbies at one point in our lives, sharing knowledge is what this forum is about. You will note the subject I have chosen could be offensive to some, we all need to have a little kidding from time to time and it also gets your attention.
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Last edited by onewizard; 11-11-2016 at 02:21 PM.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-03-2016, 12:29 AM Thread Starter
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Hi onewizard,

Thx for your looonnng answer but honestly I did not understand if you are ignoring me or trying to help.Because of my poor English, I ve difficulties to understand technical and complicated words
Just a question, can I do that valve adjustment myself or better let it to dealer to do.

thx in advance.


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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-03-2016, 10:24 AM
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Valve Shim Update/ Poor English

Quote:
Originally Posted by harun View Post
Hi onewizard,

Thx for your long answer but honestly I did not understand if you are ignoring me or trying to help.Because of my poor English, I ve difficulties to understand technical and complicated words:)
Just a question, can I do that valve adjustment myself or better let it to dealer to do.

thx in advance.
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...djustment.html just updated my pictures to this thread!!

First lots of pictures, if you don't understand this thread, best to PAY someone, expect to pay around $500 USD if adjustment needed.

If you are willing to try yourself, and are patient, lots of members here are willing to help or clarify any questions. You can also private message in a language you are familiar with, Google translate works somewhat OK, although Italian isn't it's strong point!!

Complete manual is available in PDF format on this site!!
Caution, very easy to do permanent damage if :
#1 -you don't have a torque wrench
#2 -you don't set the torque wrench to the proper value
#3 - you force things, this is precision mountings for the cams , and are ground as a set, break one and you are
it has happened when another member thought the bolt was tight and didn't notice the cam block wasn't seated properly or mixed them up! Once broken no turning back-----Patience is the key, once complete you will say it was easy.
#4- what I said in #3, applies to taking things apart, some have been able to get the airbox off leaving the throttle mounting intact , the time it takes to remove the throttle mounting is well worth the frustration you may encounter trying to get the airbox off without this process !!
#5 while you are at it check your stick coils and plugs, use dielectric grease on the boots of the stick coils, explained better in another thread--However at your mileage not absolutely needed to check these coils and plugs.


Last edited by onewizard; 11-03-2016 at 10:27 AM.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-03-2016, 12:03 PM
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After reading/looking at that I do believe I'll just take it to a shop. I have the tools and the ability just not the ambition.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-03-2016, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Duffy View Post
After reading/looking at that I do believe I'll just take it to a shop. I have the tools and the ability just not the ambition.
My comment is if you don't have the ambition but have the money, why not, well my take on someone not having the ambition, is nothing worse than getting the bike back, a week later and finding you spent $500 to $600 dollars and begin to wonder if they just took your money. It is at that point where you are kicking your ass for not doing it yourself. Just keep in mind the largest part of the cost, say $400 worth is getting at the valves, several have posted where bolts / parts were missing when returned.

I have said before; your bike your decision your money
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-03-2016, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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Ok.I really thank you so much onewizard.
I all read thread about EVS.But that looks really difficult and complicated.I do not trust myself that I can do it.I wish I could.
I bought all tools what I need for Center Stand Installing and Tire Changing etc and payed almost 250$ for all.Tork Wrench etc. looks like I have all main tools even for EVS.But oooopps really difficult.
I'll ask dealer how much they will charge me for that
I wish somebody could help me about that.

Thx a lot.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-03-2016, 11:58 PM
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Have Camera? Take Pictures

Quote:
Originally Posted by harun View Post
Ok.I really thank you so much onewizard.
I all read thread about EVS.But that looks really difficult and complicated.I do not trust myself that I can do it.I wish I could.
I bought all tools what I need for Center Stand Installing and Tire Changing etc and payed almost 250$ for all.Tork Wrench etc. looks like I have all main tools even for EVS.But oooopps really difficult.
I'll ask dealer how much they will charge me for that
I wish somebody could help me about that.

Thx a lot.
Get a quote from your dealer and post it, lots of members on here that have done this service and if you had the time, you could always post pictures and ask questions, our normal charge out fee is $00.00 dollars US Canadian currency is even cheaper

You have all the tools,this one is a step by step with pictures of a ninja Bucky's Ride: Valve Clearance Adjustment Tips

This is part of the original link, with a list of what you need complete with pictures :http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/234873-post15.html

Like I said, if you have time, several things can be done to make the job easier, wire ties on the cam chain sprockets, before you start, you need a special wrench for the cam chain tensioner on the 2015, this has been discussed here;
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...lf+moon+wrench
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-04-2016, 04:19 AM Thread Starter
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You are great guys.
Let me to think and have some courage to myself.I ll decide about a few days.

a bunch of Thx from CA (California)


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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-04-2016, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harun View Post
Ok.I really thank you so much onewizard.
I all read thread about EVS.But that looks really difficult and complicated.I do not trust myself that I can do it.I wish I could.
I bought all tools what I need for Center Stand Installing and Tire Changing etc and payed almost 250$ for all.Tork Wrench etc. looks like I have all main tools even for EVS.But oooopps really difficult.
I'll ask dealer how much they will charge me for that
I wish somebody could help me about that.

Thx a lot.
You WILL need a 1/4" torque wrench (some bolts require AROUND 106"/# of torque [or LESS]), which is ONLY a bit LESS than NINE FOOT POUNDS. Some have broken bolts by TRYING 106 '/#.

BTW - the 1/4" torque wrenches at Harbor-Freight were highly rated by CAR CRAFT magazine, and run about $12 w/ a coupon.

FWIW - I had to convince myself BEFORE I did my valves the first time. Just be careful, READ the SERVICE MANUAL a few times before you start, and TAKE YOUR TIME....

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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-04-2016, 02:36 PM
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Good Advice from a Wise Old Owl

Quote:
Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
You WILL need a 1/4" torque wrench (some bolts require AROUND 106"/# of torque [or LESS]), which is ONLY a bit LESS than NINE FOOT POUNDS. Some have broken bolts by TRYING 106 '/#.

BTW - the 1/4" torque wrenches at Harbor-Freight were highly rated by CAR CRAFT magazine, and run about $12 w/ a coupon.

FWIW - I had to convince myself BEFORE I did my valves the first time. Just be careful, READ the SERVICE MANUAL a few times before you start, and TAKE YOUR TIME....

What Eddie said
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-04-2016, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
...is nothing worse than getting the bike back, a week later and finding you spent $500 to $600 dollars and begin to wonder if they just took your money. It is at that point where you are kicking your ass for not doing it yourself. Just keep in mind the largest part of the cost, say $400 worth is getting at the valves, several have posted where bolts / parts were missing when returned. ...
Several years ago, when I had mine done by the dealer (due to a lack of time/general laziness on my part) - the dealer even offered to come pick up my bike for me, and then drop it off at my house when it was done. I felt pretty good about it until I eventually got my bike back. First, they tried to deliver it to a house that I lived at several years previously, on the other side of town. Ok, we cleared that up with a phone conversation. I then asked for what the clearances were on my bike when they opened up the top end. They replied that "they didn't write them down, but they should be good now". !?! Later, I noticed that my handlebars were slightly bent, likely due the gorilla that man handled my bike into the dealer van and lashed it down with quite a bit of muscle. They also drained my crankcase that had fresh synthetic oil in it (zero miles on the oil) and replaced it with fresh conventional oil. Nice.

If I own the bike long enough for there to be another valve clearance check, I think I will do it my self.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-04-2016, 05:48 PM
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I won't be due for some time (late 2018 sometime I'm guessing). Who knows, I might be bored enough to do it myself, or so feeble by then that I'll still have someone else do it. I don't have a problem finding a "good" shop to do the work.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-09-2016, 01:32 AM Thread Starter
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Lately I got a quote from my dealer for EVS service+7600 miles periodic maintenance.
Are you ready?
Yes 715$ for all.May be little bit more according the time they will spend extra.
So, I read everything about EVS here in this pages and everywhere.I ll open my bike may be I can do that or not.May be I break my bike but I ll not pay that money for the dealer.
Anybody close to Newport Beach / CA which can help me about that, I ll be very happy.


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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-09-2016, 10:28 PM
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Price is Right

Quote:
Originally Posted by harun View Post
Lately I got a quote from my dealer for EVS service+7600 miles periodic maintenance.
Are you ready?
Yes 715$ for all.May be little bit more according the time they will spend extra.
So, I read everything about EVS here in this pages and everywhere.I ll open my bike may be I can do that or not.May be I break my bike but I ll not pay that money for the dealer.
Anybody close to Newport Beach / CA which can help me about that, I ll be very happy.
Thanks for posting, that price reflects the amount of labour that goes into doing the job, reality is a good $300 to $400 is just getting at the valve cover, so paying someone $300 to$400 to remove the seat, plastic,signal lights , gas tank, air box, connectors, throttle cable mount,pull the stick coils, pull the plugs, and reverse the procedure, well that is really what happens. The Vacuum sync can be made real easy after the first time, no fuel line extension needed, no taking anything apart, 5 minutes and you are ready to ride, provided it is in sync it was suggested to me in a prior post, I have explained that and thanked the OP for the suggestion. Nothing worse than taking things apart to find nothing needs adjusting.

So keep us posted EVS isn't something to be concerned about, one early warning is rough idling, being hard to start.
Thought I would add a excellent post by Invader; http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/636202-post2.html
Now that I have a proper set of gauges, and I need to thank Smiley, I wish I had purchased many years ago, sure is better than my homemade manometer !!
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Last edited by onewizard; 11-10-2016 at 05:57 PM.
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-10-2016, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
The Vacuum sync can be made real easy after the first time, no fuel line extension needed, no taking anything apart, 5 minutes and you are ready to ride, provided it is in sync it was suggested to me in a prior post, I have explained that and thanked the OP for the suggestion. Nothing worse than taking things apart to find nothing needs adjusting.
Do you have a link to this post? It would be much appreciated because ... vacuum sync is on my future "to do" list.
Thank you!

I still have a full deck.
I just shuffle slower.
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-10-2016, 05:43 PM
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Modification EVS after first install / check

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Do you have a link to this post? It would be much appreciated because ... vacuum sync is on my future "to do" list.
Thank you!
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...37-post15.html

I explained what I did in the above thread, while having the gas tank off I discovered they changed the size of fittings for the plugged vacuum fittings, so I have 3 ft. of vacuum line for a MK-1 and MK-2.

The picture below was taken on the fly,it best shows my extended vacuum lines for syncing , wire tied to my Denali compressor. I was anxious to get going for a ride, I knew what I did, thought it would be nice to share since it wasn't my original idea, but a awesome one.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20160818_210434285.jpg (43.5 KB, 47 views)
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-10-2016, 07:13 PM
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Thanks a lot!!!
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I just shuffle slower.
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